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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Now that the hydro vent between the booster and MC is facing up it will be prone to sand/dirt ingress. Tap the area and install a fitting and remote vent it w/vent cap...just a thought. I vent everything up high and now will be moving vents even higher up on the snorkel top when installed.
My thoughts exactly. I'm going to use one of the "factory style" axle vents, silicone adhesive it to that vent. If silicon doesn't work then JB weld.
 
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #102 · (Edited)
Finely got the engine mount design for the frame worked out, I think. They will be bolt on using the factory mounting locations. The passenger side is relatively easy, only have to relocate the brake line and trim out a path on the fender well for the mount to slide over the frame. I still have all of the bracing to figure out, but that should be relatively easy. The drivers side not so much. 3 brake lines and 2 fuel lines will have to be rerouted. Unless I change the design the steering shaft will have to be remove to install the drivers side mount.

Setup for tac welding:
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
A small milestone, have the 4BT sitting on the frame. Thanks to Russ's CAD program (cardboard aided design) I was only off a 1/4" from where I wanted it.
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The steering shaft clears the frame mount.
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It looks like I'll have some distance between the oil pan and the diff. About 0.25-0.5 clearance. I think I'll be able to get by with just a 2" spring lift to add to the oil pan clearance.
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Looks good Russ!

Randy
 
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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
Looks good Russ!

Randy
I like it! Very clean.
Thanks guys, Steve

Had a little setback on store bought parts. Ordered a flexible trans dip stick and it came up short. Got my $108 back.

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Spent some of that on some .075 OD .049 wall tubing. Same as the factory dipstick tube size. I'll make my own, reusing the factory dip stick.
But don't have a 3/4 tube bender and to buy one is expensive $$
But I do have a 1/2 EMT conduit bender. But 1/2" conduit is .706" OD. But the bender is flared out at the outside radius.
Did it work?
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This is just a "test bend", proof of process. Next I'll get Russ's CAD program to work and design one for real.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
The replacement dipstick tube

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From 94 and on Dodge went to a cylinder seal for the dipstick tube. Much easier to use than a "O" ring
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I had tried to install the engine and trans together but the engine lift didn't lift high enough and no way to tilt the combo and slide it in.
The radiator support is in the way, if I cut it out I could slide it in.
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And a couple of brackets to bolt it all back together.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Since I'm working by myself and I've gained 20 years since the last swap putting the engine and trans in together is so much easier. I tilted the engine/trans 25° down, lifted it over the bumper, pushed it back until the trans was touching the fire wall. Lower the combo a little bit. By using hydraulic lifting table under the trans to un-tilt the combo it slides in. Lower, push in, un-tilt, repeat.

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The new custom trans dipstick tube fits:
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The weight of the trans dropped the front end 1/2"
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
The snowball effect.
On july 11 I ordered a 1 inch body lift kit for the wagoneer. It arrived here today. It's not a mod I take lightly. Can't find any 4x4 shops that carry 3.31 gears for the D44s. If their supplier doesn't have them, your SOL even though they exist. Shops won't put in gears not bought at the shop. So anyway I'm forced to go to 3.54 gears which means a jump in tire size which means at least a 2" spring lift to clear the front tires. And because the 4BT is a little extra heavy I might get 1.5" lift so to be on the safe side I'm adding the body lift. Of course I started taking the bolts on the body mounts, found the first one missing most of the rubber on the bottom mount. Ordered a poly body mount kit. And I found out something interesting about the Grand Wagoneer body mounts. Only the front 2 mounts under the radiator support have nuts you can access. The other 10 are caged, sandwiched in between stiffeners in the body, NO access to the nuts without cutting and welding. Luckly this is a lightly rusted car.
My wife's Jeep Liberty tossed it's serpentine belt, no other damage. She ordered the parts, took a week for the tensioner and the 2 idler pulleys to arrive. Except one of the idler pulley had a notch you could feel turning the pulley. You can feel the "notch" every quarter turn of the pulley. Bad pulley.
And while I was finishing up welding the engine test stand my MillerMatic 210 quit, pushed wire, no spark. No problem pulled out the MM 130 to finish the job. It started welding intermittently. Took both into the Miller shop in Tucson friday Aug 27. Tech said he'd try to look at them before he leaves for Kanas the following monday to install a CNC plasma cutting system. The tech pulled through, picked up the welders the following monday.
And the Monsoon has finely arrived for the first time in many years. We need the rain.
Life is great, I've been taking a break from work.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Back on track. Got the prototype throttle and throttle valve (kick down) linkage hooked up. Since I'm using the factory 94 Dodge throttle valve cable assembly I needed to make the special disk pivot that the cable hooks to. Couldn't find one for sale so made my own.

Start with a 3/8 bolt,
Nickel Gas Cylinder Tool Metal


Heres the part welded up
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #113 · (Edited)
Only had 3 body mount bolts/caged nuts rusted beyond repair. Those 3 aren't caged anymore.
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The spacers were in worse shape along with the bottom washers so ended up making up new ones.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Auto part Cylinder


Automotive tire Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior Wood


Idiophone Musical instrument Wood Automotive tire Line


The rear body mounts had rusted out and repaired. But for the repair they added a 1/4" plate on top of the rusted hole raising the height of the body mount. Had to cut a 1/4" off of the rear body mount bushing.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Bumper


Half way there. The kits don't come with hardware.
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First look at the body lift.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
Modified the dodge trans mount to fit the Jeep cross member. Cut out 3 inches and welded in the new mount adapter. The Jeep frame has 2 sets of mounting holes in the frame for the cross member. The forward holds are used for the V8, the second set of holes are left over from when the Wagoneer used the inline 6. The second set of holes worked out for the inline 4 and the OD trans.

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Modified the factory engine stop (solenoid) bracket, now it works with a cable.

STOP
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RUN
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
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Discussion Starter · #118 · (Edited)
A new fan. It's a GM fan for a gas motor (454 v8), will see how it holds up on the 4B (ie: Inline 4 cylinder Diesel vibration).
It's 17.5" dia. The Dodge fan is 22" dia, I always thought it was way to big for the 4B. And it's makes it a challenge to fit that large of a fan in the Jeep.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
More cooling system parts. Reducers to match the 4B engine cooling inlet/outlet to the radiator. Made from aluminum round stock.
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That fan should be plenty large for a 4bt. How did you fit that fan to the Cummins fan hub? The pilot on their hubs is 1" and a GM fan isn't. Do you know the part # on that fan. Many of the fans for the 454 are reverse rotation (counter clockwise). You fan blade is clockwise. Might need to double check that.
 
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