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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Just before the holidays started I almost had the whole combo in. I had the engine/trans in no problem. Added the Tcase and kept having the tcase hit the tunnel. Not just the top but also the front output side. I thought about bolting up the crossmember to the trans and maneuvering it around but ran out of steam and time.
Revisited the problem today and noticed I that if I remake the trans mount I have at least .375" I could move the trans mount up, lowering the Tcase which should solve that problem. If it doesn't I'll probably have to add some more holes to the clocking ring to drop the front output down.
One thing I can say is putting the engine/trans/t-case in as one unit is the way to go.
 
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Just before the holidays started I almost had the whole combo in. I had the engine/trans in no problem. Added the Tcase and kept having the tcase hit the tunnel. Not just the top but also the front output side. I thought about bolting up the crossmember to the trans and maneuvering it around but ran out of steam and time.
Revisited the problem today and noticed I that if I remake the trans mount I have at least .375" I could move the trans mount up, lowering the Tcase which should solve that problem. If it doesn't I'll probably have to add some more holes to the clocking ring to drop the front output down.
One thing I can say is putting the engine/trans/t-case in as one unit is the way to go.
If all else fails, I have a 10 ton Harbor Freight Portapower clone (both push and pull);)
 
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
Here's how you feed a power train as one unit into a SJ
Set the angle to about 26°. I've probably maxed out on the 1/2 ton limit at full extension.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Just wide enough.
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Here's where the lifting table coms in. By changing the height of the table you can change the tilt of the powertrain so it slides in.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Install the isolators.
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I did find that its easier to install the crossmember to the powertrain and then use the lifting table to aline the crossmember to the frame.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #147 · (Edited)
Should be plenty of room for the shifters. I did find that the powertrain is now at 7°, I'd planned for 6°, room for improvement.
EDIT: Took a .5" shim to get the tilt back down to 6°. At least now I can adjust it up or down if need be.
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Exhaust is where I estimated. The extra hole to the left is from one of the previous owners. What was it for, have no idea.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #148 · (Edited)
Going to the rear, fitted the 25 gal fuel tank. Added 1 inch thin wall square tube for the standoffs.
Tank fits:
Blazer (Full Size): 1982-86 25 gallon
Blazer (Full SIze): 1987 25 gallon, diesel
Jimmy (Full Size): 1982-86 25 gallon
Jimmy (Full Size): 1987 25 gallon, diesel
Suburban: 1982-86 25 gallon
Suburban: 1987 diesel, 25 gallon
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GM15B Diesel rated from gastank.com.
 
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Your Drive Train weighs between 1100-1200 lbs. It is very similar to mine on the DeScrambler.

I like this Jeep! it is going to be nice.

Randy
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Your Drive Train weighs between 1100-1200 lbs. It is very similar to mine on the DeScrambler.

I like this Jeep! it is going to be nice.

Randy
Thanks!
Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #152 · (Edited)
The fuel tank is hanging on it's own.
And there is room to remove the shocks without removing anything else.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
The sending unit (sufg12A) for the chevy tank has a ohm reading of 90-94 ohm full and 0-1.5 ohm empty. If I researched correctly the SJ has a full ohm of 100-115 ohm and 0-5 ohm empty. Close enough!
 
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #155 · (Edited)
It's been too cold for me to work in the shop untill it heats up and that's around noon if the suns out. Thats why not much progress, unlike Tinker who puts on his snow suit and continures to work in the real cold.

Back to work, kind of. 2 weeks ago I put the wagon up on ramps so I could work underneath comfortably. Got the rear axle lowered onto the ramps and the garage jack let me down. It wouldn't jack up any more, unless I used all my strength to lock the valve. Can't complain it been in use for over 40 years.
Called the company that made the jack, no repair parts, too old. But found a hydraulic jack repair company and they had the kit. The kit arrived today, so its back to work, on the garage jack.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
The floor jack is back in operation.
Next is to replace the 5/16" fuel line with 3/8" Cu Ni fuel line. Realized that the 4B has 3/8 line in and the new fuel tank has 3/8 line out, so why fight it? The return lines are all 1/4"
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
My shop got up to 52℉ by late afternoon. Not getting much work done. (Too cold for me)
The weather proof relay box arrived yesterday, using them to switch the power to the trailer lights.
Factory wiring for lights is 18 awg, other than the headlights. Thanks Jeep.
Waiting on the AN fittings to arrive (this week?) for the 3/8" and 1/4" fuel lines.
 
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Discussion Starter · #158 · (Edited)
Today was a good day.
Fabricated the vent tube for the rear axle and reinstalled the vent line with the factory
vent cap. Installed the +2" rear brake line on the axle. The "hole" for the bolt is almost .5", the bolt is 1/4". Had to fabracate a spacer to fill the hole.
Cleaned the rear brake line.
Removed the fuel lines and started modifiying the return.
 
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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
The fuel line(s) are in. Still need to add spiral wrap in areas that might chafe and add a few more clamps.
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Ebay wanted $21 for the fuel sending unit pigtail. NO.
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Some where internet found a connector that didn't look too bad but at $9,
no way.
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So I made my own. Flattened a piece of 1/4" copper tubing around the pin size, bent it into a "S" shape, then drilled it for a #8 screw. Close enough.
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