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1972 F250 4x4, 78 d60/d60, 3.55, np205, 200hp 4bt nv4500 superHX30w
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Looks great! Seeing the 3 piece engine/trans/tcase unit suspended gives heebeegeebees but helps visualize what I’m about in for. Did the cu-ni and AN fittings work smoothly, adapters needed at both ends of the length?
Cheers,
Sam
 

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1972 F250 4x4, 78 d60/d60, 3.55, np205, 200hp 4bt nv4500 superHX30w
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Looking at your solid frame side engine mounts, saw you had a side-side slotted hole for the rubber mount, does that allow for install, alignment, or both? I imagine it’s good to be able to shim/adjust the installation to get optimal angles/fit.
Sam
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #163 · (Edited)
Looks great! Seeing the 3 piece engine/trans/tcase unit suspended gives heebeegeebees but helps visualize what I’m about in for. Did the cu-ni and AN fittings work smoothly, adapters needed at both ends of the length?
Cheers,
Sam
The copper/nickel works well with the AN fittings. I did find that I could not double flare the Cu-Ni tubeing, it's just too soft.
To join two line you need a nut, a ferrule and a union, then another ferrule and nut.
The estimated weight of the power train is probably close to 1200 lbs for the 1000 lb rating at max extension. But not near the absolute rating where damage occurs. I wouldn't be doing this every day.

Looking at your solid frame side engine mounts, saw you had a side-side slotted hole for the rubber mount, does that allow for install, alignment, or both? I imagine it’s good to be able to shim/adjust the installation to get optimal angles/fit.
Sam
The slotted holes are for alignment.
 
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Fuel tank is in, fuel filler, vent, main fuel line and fuel tank sending unit attached, ready for fuel. Decided to use a weatherpack connector for the fuel tank sending unit connector.

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I know it looks like i have stock in Ideal Clamp Manufacturing Co, But no all the clamps are needed on the fuel filler line. It's my kludge moment.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Now have room for the Air filter housing.
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Air filter box if from a 94-02 Dodge Ram Diesel
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Now to fab up the box.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
After carefull measurements decided to lower the floor an inch and took out some frivolous contours in the fender well.
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Next thing is to cover the ends.
 
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Roughed in, still have some pin holes to weld up.
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Instead of using the Spiral Wrap material for chafing guards try using a piece of Fuel Hose split with two small Tie Wraps holding it in place. It only needs to be in places where contact with something is possible. I also used heat shrink tube directly on the lines with the fuel hose over the top when going thru holes in thinner material.

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Instead of using the Spiral Wrap material for chafing guards try using a piece of Fuel Hose split with two small Tie Wraps holding it in place. It only needs to be in places where contact with something is possible. I also used heat shrink tube directly on the lines with the fuel hose over the top when going thru holes in thinner material.
Good idea.
 
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Discussion Starter · #170 · (Edited)
I've been brain storming the battery tray, how to support the 54 lb battery and not have it tear the sheet metal and fall through on the ground. Not having FEA (finite element analysis) at my disposal I opted for over kill from underneath. Not quite pleased with the support, came up short on the diagonal supports, literally. And I found out that I could have some tire to battery support interference. But I did remeasure the hood clearance for the battery and I have 4" to play with. Contemplating raising the floor of the tray to move it away from the tire. I'm sure that the 2" spring lift kit will provide plenty of clearance but want to be sure.
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I'd say when you get that sheet metal tray welded into the surrounding material you will be just fine. You have significant support under the Tray and it doesn't appear to be able to go anywhere. Even if you were planning on banging around on Rock Trails (which I don't think you will be doing) I'd still say you are good to go. Also it looks clean from the top, maybe knock the corners off the hold down bar so you don't get inadvertently cut. But that is nit picking.

I understand Over Kill perfectly and you've achieved that. The only thing I would look at is maybe a way to enclose all of that undercarriage so that dirt and debris doesn't accumulate in there since it is located in the wheel well and will be subject to a constant barrage of flying debris..

As far as strength goes,,, You've got that covered!

When you do the final assembly put a piece of 1/8-1/4" thick rubber gasket material under the battery, so vibration won't wear thru the battery case.

It will vibrate,,, believe me.!!!

Randy
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #172 · (Edited)
The battery box is in and welded up, minus 3/4" off the top. Found that the the box had a slope of 1/4" left to right, and a group 34 battery would have set level with the top of the inner fender. Cut out the offending metal and welded it up.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
I decided not to grind the welds on the battery box and make it look pretty. The box is made from .062 sheet, the fender well is from .042-.030 depending on where you measure because of the uneven thickness from the stamping process. Welding the air box with .032 wire (mig) I was constantly blowing holes and having to back fill . It was a fiasco. On the battery box I used .023 wire.
I'd rather have strong welds for that 54 pound battery.
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I use Flapper Discs/Wheels on my Makita for things like that, they fair in things much easier than using a solid grinding wheel or even a Sanding Disk.. I only knock off the high spots and be done with it. If you really want it to look nice then smear some Bondo on it to fair in the low spots then finish with the flapper wheel. You won't be cutting into the base material at all so strength won't be a problem. In fact with all the undercarriage support you've got it wouldn't be a problem ever..

After you paint it black , no one will know that it didn't come that way.

I think it came out pretty decent.. With a little cosmetic zhuzhing (final touches) it will be first rate!

I had to do this on some of the fish plates on my frame because the welding didn't really come out like it would have 30 years ago. You can see were the Bondo is in this pic.
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Randy
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
I use Flapper Wheels on my Makita for things like that, they fair in things much easier than using a solid grinding wheel or even a Sanding Disk.. I only knock off the high spots and be done with it. If you really want it to look nice then smear some Bondo on it to fair in the low spots then finish with the flapper wheel. You won't be cutting into the base material at all so strength won't be a problem. In fact with all the undercarriage support you've got it wouldn't be a problem ever..

After you paint it black , no one will know that it didn't come that way.

I think it came out pretty decent.. With a little cosmetic zhuzhing (final touches) it will be first rate!

I had to do this on some of the fish plates on my frame because the welding didn't really come out like it would have 30 years ago. You can see were the Bondo is in this pic.


Randy
I buy flap wheels by the half dozen.
On the air filter tray I'll be using the bondo. On the battery box, will see.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #176 · (Edited)
Cold air intake.
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Looking from the front I may need to add a shield to keep the rain from getting into the air box
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #177 · (Edited)
The cold air intake for the airbox, that's a mock up. I haven't been able get back to it, Lots of yard work on the ranch this spring. The previous owners laid rock on 1/3 of the back yard and the rest of it is bare dirt. We live in the high desert (4200') where grass is not an option. So were "rocking" the rest of it amoung other things. Be back working on the Wagon soon.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
The air box is mostly finished. Added an aluminum plate to the front of the air box to cover the oval for the 6B and change it to a 4.5" hole to accommodate the cold air intake tube. Had to modify the air box mount. Forget to leave room for the clip in the lower left of the picture. Added a small notch.
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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
The cold air intake tube was floating, it's secured now.
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