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Discussion Starter #1
I first wanted to say thanks to everyone here for providing such a wealth of information on these motor swaps... If it weren't for you guys we would probably still be neck deep in this conversion...


So we are 99% comple with this project... Like the title says this a 1992 Fj80 Landcruiser with a dovebid 132,xxx mile 4bt with a built GM 700r4 auto transmission, Fj60 split transfer case with AA adapter plate, 6bt intake heater with a Volvo intercooler, custom Aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, rebuilt axles and driveshafts, 4" OME lift, 35" Dick Cepek FC-II's, Arb winch bumper, and many more mods to come.....

The swap was pretty straight forward and went smoothly...The only fab work was motor mounts and modifying the stock trans x-member to sit a few inches to the rear....I have been driving it for about 2 weeks on B100 biodiesel and it has plenty of power and can pull out in traffic no problem and do 80 on the hwy with ease...The pump has one turn on the fuel screw and 1/8" timing advance.. I'm not sure what kind of HP I'm getting, but I can get 18-20 psi boost with the stock H1C turbo and can keep the egt's below 1200.

I removed the factory rear spare tire and mount and have plenty of room to add a 40 gallon Aluminum veggie oil tank with a custom Plantdrive wvo conversion.

Here are some pics of the Veggie80 Carbon Neutral Cruiser..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
 

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Congrats!!!:beer: :beer: that's a nice install!

Do you have a fan on the radiator? or is it mounted low

Any MPG figures?

I would really like to see how you routed your exhaust
out the turbo and down through the frame...

All the best,
George
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks!

I do have an electric 2 speed fan mounted on the radiator with a 200*on/180*off thermo switch mounted drivers side rear of the block..I haven't seen it come on yet so I think I might change it to a lower temp switch or different location on the block..I'm using the stock Toyota dummy water temp gauge that never moves from halfway, and also takes a little while to get there..Have any idea what temp that would be?? I'm thinking 180-190*

The exhaust downpipe exits in the wheel well to the outside of the passenger side frame rail and runs about 3/4 of the way back, then it's snuck back inside the frame and over the rear axle and out from under the body... I thought that routing it over the bellhousing to the drivers side would have created excess firewall heat and noise, so this was the only other way to get around the downpipe clearance..Here are some pics...

No MPG estimates yet I'm in the process of runnin down the first documented full tank...I will keep you posted..I hope to be getting mid 20's
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Very clean installation, looks great.
The insulation in pic img_0130 is for sound deadening? How did i work? Brand?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Scout!

Yes it's for soundproofing...It's Fatmat rattletrap and I got it off ebay...It's seems to quiet it up good inside the cabin with windows up, but down by the turbo where it gets nice and hot it's a little slimy and will move if you try to push on it..We'll see how it holds up after a couple thousand miles.. I might want to try something more fibrous like the factory hood pad material..
 

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Thanks Scout!

Yes it's for soundproofing...It's Fatmat rattletrap and I got it off ebay...It's seems to quiet it up good inside the cabin with windows up, but down by the turbo where it gets nice and hot it's a little slimy and will move if you try to push on it..We'll see how it holds up after a couple thousand miles.. I might want to try something more fibrous like the factory hood pad material..
How about some exhaust wrap to keep heat in?

Gaza
 

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Great build! What did it take to bolt the 700r4 up to the 4bt? I'm looking into doing this same conversion on my '90 fj62, so most of it would be the same.

Thanks
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will exhaust wrap raise egt's?

To mount the 700r4 trans all we had to do was modify the wavy band attached to the 4bt flexplate..The wavy band has six mounting holes for th400 which didn't work with the 700r4 converter. The 700r4 has the three hole design. The 3 holes that were closest on the band but a little to far to the outside edge were cut and washers were welded to the inside edge of the wavy band to line up with 700r4 tc mounts..Now there is a thread here with a custom 700r4 converter to bolt right up to the 6 hole wavy band...No mods required..I would have done the custom tc if I would have known about it then...
 

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Thanks for the pics Veggie80, very informative. :idea: We've both got the passenger drop diff so there are not many options. I was thinking of
crossing behind the block like on my 5VZ in my T-100, but this can
only be done with appropriate shielding = more fabbing.:crybaby:

Now I am considering something like what you did.

BTW, the 700R4 has the broadest gear range ever made in an autotrans.
This is great for diesels which would be used for BOTH city and highway speeds, however the spread between gears makes the 4bt go through a pretty broad rpm range from gear to gear- the 4bt likes to putter in a narrow rpm band (for mpg). Curious to see how you like the shift/feel. What stall is your converter??

FWIW,
I'm planning for a gear splitter off my transfer output (for 2wd only) yielding 8speeds, with a double-overdrive. (1st, 1-1/2, 2nd, etc)
I do my city driving in very hilly terrain (like the streets of San Francisco) so I want to have my 4bt churning at 1500 to 1800. Under heavier loads the splitter can be electronically overridden into various settings as needed.
(just thought I'd throw that in).

Don't mean to hijack, I'm just really into how you've got your rig set-up.
Really nice.

Best Regards,
George
 

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Will exhaust wrap raise egt's?..
Its the heat energy in the exhaust that spools the turbo.
and keeping the heat in the exhaust will stop your problem with the soundproofing getting hot and moving about.
I have wrapped my manifold and will also wrap the downpipe till it gets past the cab. 2 years ago while touring France the floor in the cab was extremely hot the headers of the V8 diesel went under each side and then into one after the cab, I decided to make sure that never happened this time. Its easier to do this sort of thing during buildup.

Gaza
 

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How did you attach the transmissions t.v. cable to the throttle? Also I see these engines idle at 800 rpm - Does it fight the brakes when your stopped in gear? Thanks! Looks excellent!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
The 700r4 Trans came from a local shop here in Denver with a 1400 stall...It's setup with the automatic pressure valve lock up for 3rd and 4th gears and does function quite nicely...When that lock up kicks in she moves...The tranny guys were talking about adding 2nd gear lock up which I think would be nice..

Here are some pix of the TV bracket..It's just a welded tall bracket on the opposite side of the throttle cable with a slide bracket bolted on top...It gets plenty of pull and is easy to adjust.

The only issue that still needs tweaking is sometimes it will downshift a little sooner than I'd like with no rpm's left in that lower gear. If I let off the pedal a little it will upshift fine..I'm thinking the 3200 govenor spring kit might help that.
 
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