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Discussion Starter #141
I think I am going to leave the front TTB/Engine cross-member intact, I'll just take off the spring tower rivets and blast/paint around the cross-member. I'll also be working in sections to avoid throwing anything out of whack. I ordered 50 1/2 nord-lock washers yesterday and some grade 8 1/2 nuts and bolts that I'll be using to put everything back together.

I'll put some pics up later this weekend, but I also started sand blasting some of the brackets that were removed thus far.
 

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If you're willing to spend a bit of cash, you can probably get engine mounts for the 6bt. Auto World in Montana makes mounts for the Ford trucks and of course the front section of a Bronco should be the same as a pickup. I know their stuff isn't cheap but it fits. Here's a couple photos of how you want the engine bay to look when you're done. I think this install was between $30-40K. A factory install wasn't this clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
If you're willing to spend a bit of cash, you can probably get engine mounts for the 6bt. Auto World in Montana makes mounts for the Ford trucks and of course the front section of a Bronco should be the same as a pickup. I know their stuff isn't cheap but it fits. Here's a couple photos of how you want the engine bay to look when you're done. I think this install was between $30-40K. A factory install wasn't this clean.
I've read that thread before. I actually ended up getting my AC bracket from Auto World, and will be re-using it with the 6BT. I was thinking about using their mounts also, but from pictures/threads I've looked at for engine placement I think I like these better:

 

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That sort looks like a marine engine mount. I like the Auto World units because they require zero fabrication. They offer them with single or dual isolators. Not sure which is better. Pretty sure the guys at GOS Performance who did that Bronco worked with them on those mounts. I think they even developed those early style Ford mounts for that project.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
The ones I posted are from DCS, also bolt in and go. I used pretty much an equivalent of auto world mounts with the 4BT and I wasn't 100% happy with where it placed the engine, it was too tall. In fact, that 6BT Bronco you posted images of had to modify and cut the rear valve cover because it couldn't be removed in the vehicle.

All the pictures I've seen of swaps using DCS mounts position the engine low enough that you can take the rear valve cover off.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Making slow but steady progress. I got the back 1/3rd of the frame cleaned up and painted this weekend as well as the two cross braces.

For anyone curious, I am using a wire wheel to grind the rust off the frame, but I am thinking about picking up a small blast tank for the rest of it and for the underside of the body tub. We will see. For the coating I'm using Rustbullet automotive and applying it with an electric HVLP sprayer.















 

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Discussion Starter #148
Hey guys, sorry I haven't updated in a while but progress hasn't been happening. I got busy doing some maintenance type repairs on our daily drivers the past few weeks, and then I came across a deal on a 96 Power Stroke F250 that I picked up primarily for the S5-47 ZF-5 in it, and have been busy disassembling and parting that thing out.

However, I do need some help and advice here. I decided to go with the diesel ZF5 after talking to south bend and them pretty much laughing at the idea of the small block ZF5 holding up to the 6BT. Natural progression now has me thinking about axles.

I really have 3 choices I think:

#1. Limited Slip 8.8 and Coil Sprung D44 TTB
This is the setup I ran with the 4BT and is stock to my Bronco. I have a 8.8 that I pulled off a 96 F150 that has a LS diff in it, I planned on rebuilding the clutches, seals, bearings, etc and running it. The TTB is also stock from the Bronco, I have all new bushings, bearings, seals, etc already purchased to rebuild it. If I go this route I would also use the stronger shaft from the D50 out of the above mentioned F250.

#2. Sterling 10.25 and Lead Sprung D50 from 96 F250
The previously mentioned F250 has a limited slip full float sterling in it with 4.10 gears. I would rebuild and regear this axle to 3.55 if I went this route. I would use my D44 center section for the D50 to get 3.55 gears up front. I will need to buy bushings and seals and bearings for the D50 components. Will also need new wheels and tires for 8-lug. I get the added benefit of bigger brakes going this route also. But, I am unsure about the leaf sprung D50, don't know a whole lot about it. My offroading is pretty limited so I'm not worried about flex or anything like that but this truck will be pretty much a daily driver and long trip vehicle so I'd like it to ride nice.

#3. Sterling 10.25 and SD Dana 60 or ??
Another option I am considering is using the 10.25 from the F250, regeared as mentioned earlier, and picking up a front solid axle from a 09ish super duty. I have never done a SAS swap before and this option I am least comfortible with although it has many benefits. One other concern is that the sterling and SD D60 will have different lug patterns. Not sure how to overcome that.

My most pressing question right now I guess is will the 8.8 and D44 hold up to 6BT under normal driving conditions or should I cut my losses and start looking at options 2 and 3 or something else entirely??

My 6BT is a 98 auto so I think it's rated at 180hp. I don't plan on turning it up much if at all for a while, and if I do I wouldn't want more than 250-300hp out of it.
 

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if you go the SAS way I'm here to help D!

that being said my two thoughts are as follows: 1. you tow more than you wheel from what I understand, and SAS truly shines best offroad. 2. SAS means MORE LIFT!!! for crossmember to not hit, which means bigger tires, which means gears, which means harder to tow

I kinda like the 1 ton rear and the leafsprung ttb idea (if you aren't gonna be wheeling real hard)

lmk how I can help
 

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Discussion Starter #150
if you go the SAS way I'm here to help D!

that being said my two thoughts are as follows: 1. you tow more than you wheel from what I understand, and SAS truly shines best offroad. 2. SAS means MORE LIFT!!! for crossmember to not hit, which means bigger tires, which means gears, which means harder to tow

I kinda like the 1 ton rear and the leafsprung ttb idea (if you aren't gonna be wheeling real hard)

lmk how I can help
Thanks man, I am pretty sure I can cut my cross member out and brace the frame elsewhere as needed if it came to it since I wouldn't be using it for engine mounts or the TTB. However, I think I am just going to try with the 8.8 and D44 at first and see what happens.
 

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The ones I posted are from DCS, also bolt in and go. I used pretty much an equivalent of auto world mounts with the 4BT and I wasn't 100% happy with where it placed the engine, it was too tall. In fact, that 6BT Bronco you posted images of had to modify and cut the rear valve cover because it couldn't be removed in the vehicle.

All the pictures I've seen of swaps using DCS mounts position the engine low enough that you can take the rear valve cover off.
I have the DCS motor mounts. They are pretty stout mounts. The issue I have with them is it sets the motor back too far. My transmission rubs against my body, i can't get the rear valve cover off, and where the mounts sits on top of the frame sits on top of a half layer of extra metal causing it to squish weird.

Also, don't buy their radiator hose kit. I'll give you the part numbers to their Napa hoses they bought and resold for triple price. There site says it works just fine and dandy with a gas radiator it doesn't even come close. The diesel radiator and gas radiator have different inlet/outlet locations deeming the metal preformed tube useless. Upsetting I spent that much on radiator hoses so I could finish it (time crunch) and they wouldn't do a damn thing about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
I have the DCS motor mounts. They are pretty stout mounts. The issue I have with them is it sets the motor back too far. My transmission rubs against my body, i can't get the rear valve cover off, and where the mounts sits on top of the frame sits on top of a half layer of extra metal causing it to squish weird.

Also, don't buy their radiator hose kit. I'll give you the part numbers to their Napa hoses they bought and resold for triple price. There site says it works just fine and dandy with a gas radiator it doesn't even come close. The diesel radiator and gas radiator have different inlet/outlet locations deeming the metal preformed tube useless. Upsetting I spent that much on radiator hoses so I could finish it (time crunch) and they wouldn't do a damn thing about it.
Thanks for the heads up about the hoses and mounts. It's odd you have those problems with the mounts, but I also wonder if there is some difference between the 1/2 and 1 ton frames. Of all the 1/2 builds I've looked at these seem to have the best rear valve cover clearance. I did however hear before that it puts the motor pretty far back and possibly having transmission alignment issues, but I am not too worried about that. I'll figure it out when I start assembling things again I guess. Worst case, I can always duplicate the auto world mounts with powerstroke mounting plates.

As far as the hoses go, I swapped the water inlet and outlets from my 4BT onto the 6BT since I already had alternator mounting and hoses figured out. So I am expecting that the hoses I was using for the 4BT should work with some trimming. I'd never buy a kit like that from DCS I'm too cheap. I'll take the 30 minutes to measure and pull out a gates hose dimension book and find what I need lol.
 

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Generally I'm far too cheap to buy a hose kit like that. I figured for the money it might be worth it. I ran out of time and needed it done. Needless to say I wasted more time and money because of it.

Hopefully you will have less interference issues than me.
 

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Hey guys, sorry I haven't updated in a while but progress hasn't been happening.
Believe me, I think most of us understand this. Life happens. I picked up my Bronco last June with the intention of having it DD-worthy by October... that didn't work out. :D

Based on the information you've provided, I think this is your best option:

#2. Sterling 10.25 and Lead Sprung D50 from 96 F250
The previously mentioned F250 has a limited slip full float sterling in it with 4.10 gears. I would rebuild and regear this axle to 3.55 if I went this route. I would use my D44 center section for the D50 to get 3.55 gears up front. I will need to buy bushings and seals and bearings for the D50 components. Will also need new wheels and tires for 8-lug. I get the added benefit of bigger brakes going this route also. But, I am unsure about the leaf sprung D50, don't know a whole lot about it. My offroading is pretty limited so I'm not worried about flex or anything like that but this truck will be pretty much a daily driver and long trip vehicle so I'd like it to ride nice.
with a recommendation: install the D50 with an RSK from Sky Manufacturing on the rear of the leafsprings. I haven't done this, but based on my reading, it will improve the ride over a standard F250 fairly significantly.

You could do the Sterling 10.25 rear and throw a KP or u-joint Dana 60 up front, but if you're not building a wheelin' rig it isn't really necessary. Of course, the Dana 60 is super-cool. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Believe me, I think most of us understand this. Life happens. I picked up my Bronco last June with the intention of having it DD-worthy by October... that didn't work out. :D

Based on the information you've provided, I think this is your best option:



with a recommendation: install the D50 with an RSK from Sky Manufacturing on the rear of the leafsprings. I haven't done this, but based on my reading, it will improve the ride over a standard F250 fairly significantly.

You could do the Sterling 10.25 rear and throw a KP or u-joint Dana 60 up front, but if you're not building a wheelin' rig it isn't really necessary. Of course, the Dana 60 is super-cool. :D
Holy crap, thank you for your post. I searched for days and couldn't find any aftermarket parts for the D50 or ANY info about putting front leafs on a Bronco. But, thanks to you I went over to Sky's site and they have a front leaf conversion kit for my rig. It is advertised for solid axle, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work for the D50, I think the leafs were mounted the same between the D50 and D60 of that generation.

One thing I'm unclear of, does this kit also perform a RSK when installed?

http://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/ford/products/ford-sas-bf150
 

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You're welcome. That's what these forums are for.

Holy crap, thank you for your post. I searched for days and One thing I'm unclear of, does this kit also perform a RSK when installed?

http://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/ford/products/ford-sas-bf150
That's the one. Keep in mind, you will get about 4" of lift when you install it, which means you'll want drop brackets for the inboard ends of the Dana 50.

(RSK is shorthand for Reverse Shackle Kit. In the description, they say it's a shackle reverse design.)

Also, FullSizeBronco.com has a lot of info. Might be worth checking out.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
You're welcome. That's what these forums are for.



That's the one. Keep in mind, you will get about 4" of lift when you install it, which means you'll want drop brackets for the inboard ends of the Dana 50.

(RSK is shorthand for Reverse Shackle Kit. In the description, they say it's a shackle reverse design.)

Also, FullSizeBronco.com has a lot of info. Might be worth checking out.
Yeah I am on FSB but all the guys over there are wheelers and all the threads just talk about how horrible the D50 is, and how bad it rides. Can't even count how many times I've read people saying that the coil sprung d44 is better.
 

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Yeah I am on FSB but all the guys over there are wheelers and all the threads just talk about how horrible the D50 is, and how bad it rides. Can't even count how many times I've read people saying that the coil sprung d44 is better.
:D

Too true.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Short update. I found a killer deal on a recently refreshed Dana 60 front axle that I couldn't pass up. So I am going to go with that in the front and Sterling 10.25 from my F250 parts truck in the rear. I've already sold my LS 8.8, 5 lug wheels, and started parting out the TTB D44. I'll be tackling the leaf sprung D60 install next.

In the meantime, I had some time this past weekend finally to spend on the Bronco. Sorry for the poor quality pictures but I was determined to get the frame done. Saturday I finished drilling out and removing the center crossmember, body mount brackets, and coil spring buckets. Then sunday I finished stripping the rust off the frame with a combination of metal blast, and wire wheel on an angle grinder. I got it nice and clean before spraying down several coats of Rust Bullet. I still need to prep and spray all of the brackets, but this is where I ended up at the end of the day. Sorry for the crappy quality.



 

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Discussion Starter #160
My RSK kit showed up in the mail today so I did a quick test fit after work. This thing is snug but I got it on the frame horns with a little help from Mr. Rubber Mallet. It is obviously not designed to work on a 1/2 ton with crumple horns at that, but I think it is close enough that I can make it work. I will just need to drill some new holes and will re-enforce the top and bottom of the crumple zone with plate to make sure it doesn't fold over.





 
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