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Discussion Starter #1
Parts list.

4bt cummins --- CHECK
M5OD transmission --- CHECK
BW4406 TCase --- CHECK
Donor 98 Ranger --- CHECK

Ok heres the plan. I bought a tator chip hauler and pulled the engine, Here is what I have done so far. I bought a 1998 ranger on craigslist, with a locked up 3.0L. I have puller the cab, and removed the engine, transmission, t-case and both driveshafts. I will post some pictures tomorrow of how the progress is coming I am hoping to get the motor mounts done tommorrow, and get the plan on cutting the oil pan. I ahve looked around the net and only found one other person who is doing a build thread on his 96 explorer. I could not find any real info on an IFS truck like mine. I am going to take alot of pictures so it can be a source of info for anyone else thinking about this kind of swap.

I have a HY35 turbo, does any know if there is a down pipe that will connect directly to it, or do I have to have an elbow.

Thanks for the help.

Tim Atkinson
 

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I ahve looked around the net and only found one other person who is doing a build thread on his 96 explorer. I could not find any real info on an IFS truck like mine. I am going to take alot of pictures so it can be a source of info for anyone else thinking about this kind of swap.

Tim Atkinson
You sure about that guys truck being a '96? Or was it a '95?

Either way, the '95+ Explorer has the same IFS chassis as the 98+ Ranger.

You will need stronger torsion bars. Look for "1" or "A" code bars (usually found in Sport tracs, and Ranger FX4 s). Let me know if you cant find them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I can't remember but it was yours !! I saw your post on the bronco forums, great build by the way. Congrats on the new car. Thanks for the heads up on the torsion bars, I will start looking now. I am going to post some pics tommorrow.

Tim
 

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I have a HY35 turbo, does any know if there is a down pipe that will connect directly to it, or do I have to have an elbow.
i bought an adapter flange to make mine an 4 inch down pipe. holsets of that size have 2 different exhuast adapters. one has a funny socket adapter and the other is an flange clamp. i've got the flange clamp kind. you can swap the housing plates if u got the wrong one.
about the ifs, well i've got a 1989 ranger with a d35 front, works great, bds 4inch lift coils and harley any sag.
 

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i bought an adapter flange to make mine an 4 inch down pipe. holsets of that size have 2 different exhuast adapters. one has a funny socket adapter and the other is an flange clamp. i've got the flange clamp kind. you can swap the housing plates if u got the wrong one.
about the ifs, well i've got a 1989 ranger with a d35 front, works great, bds 4inch lift coils and harley any sag.
He's got the torsion bar IFS, youre talking about the coil sprung TTB. The TTB is a great system, but it's too stiff for its own good. The aftermarket cant seem to figure that out and makes coils that are too stiff for good flex, BUT, they are great for heavy engine swaps. ;)
 

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He's got the torsion bar IFS, youre talking about the coil sprung TTB. The TTB is a great system, but it's too stiff for its own good. The aftermarket cant seem to figure that out and makes coils that are too stiff for good flex, BUT, they are great for heavy engine swaps. ;)
my lift springs sagged horribly. ttb sucks in my opinion :) solid axle n leaf springs in the near future, woulda been coil over but its down to saving some money to getting the SAS done.


as for the OP.... you lied to me!!! i dont see any pics :happyfinger:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DSC01774.jpg DSC01774.jpg DSC01771.jpg We'll made some progress today. Engine, transmission, t-case are all in. I have a plan for the motor mounts and the oil pan. I cut the oil pan I just need to build it. I need to get a 12v exhuast manifold there isn't enough clearance to keep my a/c. I've got about 6" for my fan. The t-case is very close to the LH frame rail, but that is the least of my problems.
 

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my lift springs sagged horribly. ttb sucks in my opinion :) solid axle n leaf springs in the near future, woulda been coil over but its down to saving some money to getting the SAS done.


as for the OP.... you lied to me!!! i dont see any pics :happyfinger:
What do you know? You've got a Twin I Beam (TIB) not a Twin Traction Beam (TTB). :happyfinger: Next time start with the right suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the oil pan cut, but no progress there. I am going to work on it a couple of nights this week. I have pesky customer pay stuff to do, so the old ranger has to go in the flat. I am going to try to spend some time over there and get the oil pan, and motor mounts done by Friday.

I had both a TIB and my other truck is a IFS, and without starting world war 3, I like IFS much better, it sucks that you can't lift it without spending some coin, but that is not so much my thing.

I'll get some picture of that pan, when I get some real progress on it.

Tim
 

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The TIB (2WD) is an ok system. The TTB (4WD) is nice off road, better then the IFS. The IFS has nice road manners, but cant hold a candle to the TTB off-road.


What did you do about the trans crossmember? I found that where I positioned my motor the trans almost lined up perfect with the stock holes.
 

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I got the oil pan cut, but no progress there. I am going to work on it a couple of nights this week. I have pesky customer pay stuff to do, so the old ranger has to go in the flat. I am going to try to spend some time over there and get the oil pan, and motor mounts done by Friday.

I had both a TIB and my other truck is a IFS, and without starting world war 3, I like IFS much better, it sucks that you can't lift it without spending some coin, but that is not so much my thing.

I'll get some picture of that pan, when I get some real progress on it.

Tim
what are you using for mounts?

What do you know? You've got a Twin I Beam (TIB) not a Twin Traction Beam (TTB). :happyfinger: Next time start with the right suspension.
one day ill get you! lol ford and their stupid idea naming them so close together
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I put the ranger mount on my m5od, and drop it right in the stock holes. I centered the mount in the slots, just to keep it from be bound up, against the cross member. I read on the ranger station about the 4406 t-case swap, if you keep it in the stock location, you can use a oem driveshaft out of an expidition. I am really excited about this project, I was just lucky to buy this spare truck cheap, and did not have to take apart my daily driver.

The TIB (2WD) is an ok system. The TTB (4WD) is nice off road, better then the IFS. The IFS has nice road manners, but cant hold a candle to the TTB off-road.


What did you do about the trans crossmember? I found that where I positioned my motor the trans almost lined up perfect with the stock holes.
 

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Nothing yet, but I am going to use the stock chip truck mounts. I think they were 2469 or something like that. They are the flats one. I think the mounts are rather easy to make, and I have a pretty good handle on it. I am going to recolate the front diff vent fitting, I am planning on tapping the hole, and install and vent fitting in the front cover, so that I will not have to notch the oil pan for it too. I need all the space I can get.

Tim
what are you using for mounts?



one day ill get you! lol ford and their stupid idea naming them so close together
 

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What gears are in the truck? Check the door jam sticker, it will have the axle code.
What tire size do you plan on running?
What rear axle is in there, it may have a 7.5?

I have an idea for running 3.08/3.07s. The d35 in the front never came with 3.07s, but other d35s did. I think if I get a set of jeep 3.07s and carrier, use the explorer spider gears (they are different for the cir-clips that hold the axle), it should work. 3.08s in a 7.5 or 8.8 is easy.
 

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Nothing yet, but I am going to use the stock chip truck mounts. I think they were 2469 or something like that. They are the flats one. I think the mounts are rather easy to make, and I have a pretty good handle on it. I am going to recolate the front diff vent fitting, I am planning on tapping the hole, and install and vent fitting in the front cover, so that I will not have to notch the oil pan for it too. I need all the space I can get.

Tim
The vent really isnt that much of a problem. The diff is more in the way.



At least you dont have that stupic CAD vacuum crap in your way. That was only on the 95-96 Explorers.

Here's an oilpan shot, so you have an idea of how much you need to cut. You wont need to worry about the box at the bottom of the pic, thats for the CAD.

 

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He's got the torsion bar IFS, youre talking about the coil sprung TTB. The TTB is a great system, but it's too stiff for its own good. The aftermarket cant seem to figure that out and makes coils that are too stiff for good flex, BUT, they are great for heavy engine swaps. ;)
hmmm. mine flexs nice, don't go no complaints about it. it's cheap and does what i want it to do. only money i spent on it was detroit true trac, works amazing! i have to agree with wbdave, sas is the way to go, ive got my eyes open for a d44!
 

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hmmm. mine flexs nice, don't go no complaints about it. it's cheap and does what i want it to do. only money i spent on it was detroit true trac, works amazing! i have to agree with wbdave, sas is the way to go, ive got my eyes open for a d44!
You still running the stock motor, or is it a little heavier?

Dont get me wrong, I've got 3 D44s "in stock" and will SAS at least one of my RBVs.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Have you delt with making you tach work. I think I have a great solution, if you haven't. LMK I can get you some pics, and I will post some more info.

Yeah the CAD system is still better than the vacuum hubs that they put on 98 and 99 rangers, they system is very similar to what they use on a kia sportage (that should say something for itself.) I am planning on upgrading to 2000 spindles, axles, and bearings, just because. My pan looks similar to yours I just need to fill it all in. I am looking forward to getting it done. I think I am going to work on it tomorrow night.

Tim
The vent really isnt that much of a problem. The diff is more in the way.


At least you dont have that stupic CAD vacuum crap in your way. That was only on the 95-96 Explorers.

Here's an oilpan shot, so you have an idea of how much you need to cut. You wont need to worry about the box at the bottom of the pic, thats for the CAD.
 

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Grab a set of '01+ Explorer sport or sport trac spindles and brakes. No vacuum hubs, they run the biggest stock brakes on a RBV (12" rotors) and, as long as you swap everything from the knuckles out, its a direct bolt on swap (16" wheels required). I'm working on a 13" Cobra brake swap.

I have the Dakota Digital tach adapter. Whats your solution?
 
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