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I recently got my hands on a decent 2000 ranger 4x4. It has the 3.0 v6 engine. I plan to use this as my receiving patient.

As this is my first swap, I will be taking my sweet time and don't plan to rush. I want to plan, plan and then when I think I got it all covered, plan some more. Here's what I got cooked up so far and please chime in with any and every bit of help and advice you can offer.

Base: 2000 ranger 4x4 ext cab

Lift: 3in body lift

Engine: 4bt (beat the s*** out of pan to fit) also need to know part number for adapter plate for 47rh transmission. And for billet flexplate

Injector pump: p7100 w/ all the freebie mods (adjustments)

Turbo: hx30w w/ manifold (part #4984697), mounted top

Intercooler: definitely would want one, need advice here for setup and plumbing

Transmission: 47rh 4x4 w/ compushift mini

4x4 selector switch: no idea, I don't have the awesome floor shifter....

Transfer case: open to suggestions.... Dodge again I would assume.... Perhaps 241?

Trans crossmembers: fabricate my own like I did engine mount plates.... Use rubber isolators, unless there is a simpler solution. I'm all ears.

Front axel: some kind of swap (Dana series)

Rear axel: explorer rear end w/ 3.31

Engine mounts: custom plates use ranger mounts

Starter: I heard I could use as factory 94-96 starter from a dodge 2500, may need a part number so I have the proper starter. Clearance issues???

Fuel lines: 1/2 feed, 3/8 return

Fuel: try to use ranger stock tank w/ wix33427 filter

Air intake: ah1141 filter, plumbing...open to suggestions

Oil filter: lf334

Powersteering: 2500 PS/vacuum setup

Vacuum pump: look above

Alternator: open to suggestions

A/c and heat: use components from ranger as they work good as it is. Will probably need bracket setup from member CrewCab59

Brakes: depends on axel swap upgrade but always open to advice, I hear stock will hold up but might upgrade to disc or even hydroboost

I'm sure I'm forgetting something things but this is off the top of my head. Please give any insight and information. Hoping to make it look very factory like.
 

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View attachment 128462 I recently got my hands on a decent 2000 ranger 4x4. It has the 3.0 v6 engine. I plan to use this as my receiving patient.

As this is my first swap, I will be taking my sweet time and don't plan to rush. I want to plan, plan and then when I think I got it all covered, plan some more. Here's what I got cooked up so far and please chime in with any and every bit of help and advice you can offer.

Base: 2000 ranger 4x4 ext cab

Lift: 3in body lift

Engine: 4bt (beat the s*** out of pan to fit) also need to know part number for adapter plate for 47rh transmission. And for billet flexplate

Injector pump: p7100 w/ all the freebie mods (adjustments)

Turbo: hx30w w/ manifold (part #4984697), mounted top

Intercooler: definitely would want one, need advice here for setup and plumbing

Transmission: 47rh 4x4 w/ compushift mini

4x4 selector switch: no idea, I don't have the awesome floor shifter....

Transfer case: open to suggestions.... Dodge again I would assume.... Perhaps 241?

Trans crossmembers: fabricate my own like I did engine mount plates.... Use rubber isolators, unless there is a simpler solution. I'm all ears.

Front axel: some kind of swap (Dana series)

Rear axel: explorer rear end w/ 3.31

Engine mounts: custom plates use ranger mounts

Starter: I heard I could use as factory 94-96 starter from a dodge 2500, may need a part number so I have the proper starter. Clearance issues???

Fuel lines: 1/2 feed, 3/8 return

Fuel: try to use ranger stock tank w/ wix33427 filter

Air intake: ah1141 filter, plumbing...open to suggestions

Oil filter: lf334

Powersteering: 2500 PS/vacuum setup

Vacuum pump: look above

Alternator: open to suggestions

A/c and heat: use components from ranger as they work good as it is. Will probably need bracket setup from member CrewCab59

Brakes: depends on axel swap upgrade but always open to advice, I hear stock will hold up but might upgrade to disc or even hydroboost

I'm sure I'm forgetting something things but this is off the top of my head. Please give any insight and information. Hoping to make it look very factory like.
Consider swapping a 4 cylinder ford powerstroke 3.0 engine rather than 4BT. The ranger comes with a diesel in Europe , Asia and South America . You can import a ranger diesel power train cheap. Transfer case , trans are ford so no adaptors needed.
 

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View attachment 128462 I recently got my hands on a decent 2000 ranger 4x4. It has the 3.0 v6 engine. I plan to use this as my receiving patient.

As this is my first swap, I will be taking my sweet time and don't plan to rush. I want to plan, plan and then when I think I got it all covered, plan some more. Here's what I got cooked up so far and please chime in with any and every bit of help and advice you can offer.

Base: 2000 ranger 4x4 ext cab

Lift: 3in body lift

Engine: 4bt (beat the s*** out of pan to fit) also need to know part number for adapter plate for 47rh transmission. And for billet flexplate

Injector pump: p7100 w/ all the freebie mods (adjustments)

Turbo: hx30w w/ manifold (part #4984697), mounted top

Intercooler: definitely would want one, need advice here for setup and plumbing

Transmission: 47rh 4x4 w/ compushift mini

4x4 selector switch: no idea, I don't have the awesome floor shifter....

Transfer case: open to suggestions.... Dodge again I would assume.... Perhaps 241?

Trans crossmembers: fabricate my own like I did engine mount plates.... Use rubber isolators, unless there is a simpler solution. I'm all ears.

Front axel: some kind of swap (Dana series)

Rear axel: explorer rear end w/ 3.31

Engine mounts: custom plates use ranger mounts

Starter: I heard I could use as factory 94-96 starter from a dodge 2500, may need a part number so I have the proper starter. Clearance issues???

Fuel lines: 1/2 feed, 3/8 return

Fuel: try to use ranger stock tank w/ wix33427 filter

Air intake: ah1141 filter, plumbing...open to suggestions

Oil filter: lf334

Powersteering: 2500 PS/vacuum setup

Vacuum pump: look above

Alternator: open to suggestions

A/c and heat: use components from ranger as they work good as it is. Will probably need bracket setup from member CrewCab59

Brakes: depends on axel swap upgrade but always open to advice, I hear stock will hold up but might upgrade to disc or even hydroboost

I'm sure I'm forgetting something things but this is off the top of my head. Please give any insight and information. Hoping to make it look very factory like.
This power train
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Idk, I just really want this particular build setup. Might not be most ideal. But I really need some input on parts and what does and doesn't work.
 

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Sounds like you're taking a sensible approach. The adapter plate for the 47RH is Cummins part 3923045. That was used on '94-02 engines for manual and automatics. A billet flex plate would be an aftermarket item Not really necessary unless you plan some pretty serious power level. On the P7100 there won't be many free mods, but the ones most used are not expensive. You want to change the governor springs to either 3000 or 4000 RPM. Change the torque plate to a #10. Adjust the timing to around 16 deg. One possible minor mod is replace the overflow valve. All these can be done with the pump on the engine. The stock turbo on the P pump 4bt was the HX30W with a 40mm inducer. There are 3 other size HX30W's, 42mm, 44mm, and 46mm. The 44mm and 46mm would be improvements if you plan to stay with a single. Should twins be in the future don't go larger than 44mm. The exhaust manifold you list would also work well should twins come along. Can mount the turbo up top near the front and angled away from the head. No need for larger injectors so long as you don't go much over 200 HP. Just have them checked to be sure they are in good shape. The stock units are 5x.010 and if you plan on pushing the power level up a 5x.012 would be the next step. Those came on the 250 HP 4bt marine engine. You mentioned an intercooler and it will be a necessity. The stock transfer case that came with the 47RH would have been the NP241 or NP241HD depending on application. Both have driver's side drop which would match the Ford. Would need to be sure about frame clearance. On your axles, you may hit a snag on the front axle. Fords used a high pinion Dana and 3.50 is the highest gear available. The '94-98 starter would be correct but you may run into so issues. A 4bt is only so long and when you install the power steering/vacuum pump combo things get a bit tight. Might need a custom or modified starter. Also, on the power steering combo you will need to change the fluid reservoir. The stock one won't clear a 4bt P pump. On the fuel tank pickup you may need to modify that. You want no in tank pump or filter sock and need a return line if it doesn't have one. Both pickup and return lines need to sit nearly to the bottom of the tank. Where do you plan to put that big fuel filter? The stock Cummins filter is adequate and it goes after the lift pump. If you go hydroboost brakes you won't need that vacuum pump combo. Any vacuum needs for heater/ac could be done by a small electric unit. The hydroboost units take up less room on the firewall as well. The stock Ford alternator can probably be adapted with the proper bracket and pulley. AC could have several options. Where on the engine is the compressor located now? You might have to change compressors if you want an 8 groove pulley and use a single belt. Below is a photo of a Ford high mount setup on a 4bt. These came on 6bts but will fit a 4bt as you see. One issue might be whether your turbo would clear the back of the alternator in the high position. I have one of those exhaust manifold and was going to see it that would work but never got around to it. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow that's alot of valuable information. Right now I'm in process of collecting parts that I can source cheaply online or in my local yards. Still haven't found my engine or transmission yet. And my overall goal would be around 300hp. I feel that would be fairly mild build. Don't need a street rod. But would like to keep up with modern traffic. And feel a little force when accelerating if I need it.
 

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300 HP isn't mild on a 4bt. You will need to make several plans on other engine mods. Head studs would be highly recommended and possibly O ring the head. You'll need boost level in the 40 PSI range so this would be a twin turbo job. The HX30W mated to a HX35W has been a popular combo. The WH1C large turbo is essentially the same as the HX35W and has also been used. The ideal set is probably a 44mm HX30W mated with a HX35W with a 14cc turbine housing. That housing isn't too common so most use the 12cc which is common as dirt. You better think on some heavier axles. 300 HP will have near 700 lb ft of torque. That can break light duty axles if you get too frisky with the power. The transmission may also need some upgrades to handle that power. You'll definitely need the 5x.012 injectors for the fueling. Member Eggman runs an F250 with an engine in that power range. Be sure to include some good quality gauges in you plan. A tach, EGT, and boost gauges are the bare minimum. Other good to have on such a setup are fuel pressure and exhaust back pressure. Always better to have too much info than not enough. When researching an intercooler, fit one as large as possible. Higher boost levels create a lot of heat that you need to get rid of. Will need to survey the engine compartment to decide on radiator and cooling fan. 4bts run very cool in stock or mild modified form but heat level goes up with power. Speaking of heat, in the turbos the heat is the energy that drives them. The more of that heat that you keep inside them the more efficient they are. Although not a low budget item, having the exhaust manifold, turbo exhaust plumbing, and turbine housings ceramic coated can reap good benefits. It just ain't cheap. Below is a photo of member Ryanroo's twins on a 6bt with all the exhaust parts ceramic coated. You'll need to work out what air filter to use. You'll need one that can handle the air needs of the twins. Although not a necessity, a better camshaft could be a benefit. Not exactly cheap but could be kept on the back burner. Another not so cheap option would be a harmonic balancer. Again, not required but can help tame some of the 4bts vibration. Don't bother using one from a stock 6bt. If provides little help. Either the model from Cummins made for a 4bt or one from Fluidampr would be the best. There can be all kinds of other possible mods like remote oil filter(s or changing the oil pump and oil cooler to a larger model for the twin turbo setup. There are usually a lot of ideas left at the end of the money. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
First step first is conversion first then slowly build up to 300. The only thing I would like to do is only have to put motor in once and not have to pull again. Id rather over build and be reliable than under build and tear up all the hard work.
 

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Building it right the first time is always better. The twin turbos can be sort of a last item on the list so you can figure out where every thing needs to be placed. Things can start to get a bit cramped in the engine compartment. A 4bt isn't exactly tiny. As far as axles go, that's a tough question. You're dealing with a smaller chassis than a full size truck so full sized axles will stick out the sides more unless you narrow them. Have to remember a full size Dodge Cummins which had less power than you plan used a Dana 60 front and a Dana 80 rear. Depending on how much 4 wheeling you plan, might get by with a Dana 44 up front and a Ford Sterling 10.25/10.50 in the rear. Could possibly use a Dana 60 out back. With any of those you'll likely be looking at 8 lug bolt patterns. So much depends on how you drive. We've had guys break differentials and drive shafts when abused. The vehicle load is probably not a big issue but that gut wrenching low end torque that the Cummins has can damage weak parts. Also, the firing order of the 4bt adds more stress.
 

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Building it right the first time is always better. The twin turbos can be sort of a last item on the list so you can figure out where every thing needs to be placed. Things can start to get a bit cramped in the engine compartment. A 4bt isn't exactly tiny. As far as axles go, that's a tough question. You're dealing with a smaller chassis than a full size truck so full sized axles will stick out the sides more unless you narrow them. Have to remember a full size Dodge Cummins which had less power than you plan used a Dana 60 front and a Dana 80 rear. Depending on how much 4 wheeling you plan, might get by with a Dana 44 up front and a Ford Sterling 10.25/10.50 in the rear. Could possibly use a Dana 60 out back. With any of those you'll likely be looking at 8 lug bolt patterns. So much depends on how you drive. We've had guys break differentials and drive shafts when abused. The vehicle load is probably not a big issue but that gut wrenching low end torque that the Cummins has can damage weak parts. Also, the firing order of the 4bt adds more stress.
I was thinking Dana 60s in front and rear for this build. I think I would have to change the brackets to mount up. Hell, I could use the longer axels anyway, instead of spacers. Think that could work as I never swapped axels that were different lengths.
 

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If you use axles from a Ford truck they probably won't be different lengths as long as they are from a single rear wheel truck. Ford used several different Dana 60 front axles. They probably go all the way back to 1975. The early models would have been low pinion or just like a rear only mounted up front with steering capability. The holy grail model is probably the one from the mid '80's to '91 used in the F350 which is the high pinion model with kind pins. In 1992 Ford changed the knuckles to ball joint type. Around 1999 Ford changed the lug bolt pattern to metric so you'd need to match up front an rear units to avoid different bolt patterns. Dodge and GM also used the Dana 60 up front. GM's were all passenger's side drop while the Dodge versions changed from passenger's side to driver's side over the years. There is even a Dana 61 front used in the '89-91.5 Dodge Cummins that came in a 3.07 gear. Those have become quite scarce in recent times. Before 1994 the Dodge units were passenger's side drop. Ford high pinion Dana 60's have a 3.54 as the highest gear which would have been matched to a 3.55 rear.
 

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If you use axles from a Ford truck they probably won't be different lengths as long as they are from a single rear wheel truck. Ford used several different Dana 60 front axles. They probably go all the way back to 1975. The early models would have been low pinion or just like a rear only mounted up front with steering capability. The holy grail model is probably the one from the mid '80's to '91 used in the F350 which is the high pinion model with kind pins. In 1992 Ford changed the knuckles to ball joint type. Around 1999 Ford changed the lug bolt pattern to metric so you'd need to match up front an rear units to avoid different bolt patterns. Dodge and GM also used the Dana 60 up front. GM's were all passenger's side drop while the Dodge versions changed from passenger's side to driver's side over the years. There is even a Dana 61 front used in the '89-91.5 Dodge Cummins that came in a 3.07 gear. Those have become quite scarce in recent times. Before 1994 the Dodge units were passenger's side drop. Ford high pinion Dana 60's have a 3.54 as the highest gear which would have been matched to a 3.55 rear.
Ok. So I'm looking for functionality, easy to source, minium fabrication. Where should I go? I know the engine bay will be tight so maybe something that won't interfere too much.
 

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A Dana 44 would work if you are nice to it. A Dana 60 would also work. With careful measuring, perhaps could get by with shortening one side only.

Ed in CO.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A Dana 44 would work if you are nice to it. A Dana 60 would also work. With careful measuring, perhaps could get by with shortening one side only.

Ed in CO.
That would be great. What all would I need for the swap as far as mounting these? Would I need new spring retainers? Or even mounts for radius arms and ect???
 

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What is your front suspension, Coils or torsion bar? Probably leafs on rear. If you are lucky, on the rear, clean off existing spring perches, get or make new ones and weld them to the axle, with a moderate load on it, after you narrow the axle, of course. Front whatever perch mechanism there must be modified to fit the narrowed axle. Need to allow front diff. to pan clearance. Steering gear and tie rod, etc., clearance. Narrowing axles to fit your body is not a backyard exercise, find someone that does that routinely.

Before you do that, it would be well to round up your trans. and transfer case, make sure you have enough driveshaft allowance.

If necessary, get a junker to drive while working.

There is a lot more to it, all the controls, electric, diesel specific apparatus.

Good luck.

Ed in CO.
 

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What is your front suspension, Coils or torsion bar? Probably leafs on rear. If you are lucky, on the rear, clean off existing spring perches, get or make new ones and weld them to the axle, with a moderate load on it, after you narrow the axle, of course. Front whatever perch mechanism there must be modified to fit the narrowed axle. Need to allow front diff. to pan clearance. Steering gear and tie rod, etc., clearance. Narrowing axles to fit your body is not a backyard exercise, find someone that does that routinely.

Before you do that, it would be well to round up your trans. and transfer case, make sure you have enough driveshaft allowance.

If necessary, get a junker to drive while working.

There is a lot more to it, all the controls, electric, diesel specific apparatus.

Good luck.

Ed in CO.
Yeah no kidding. This is just a project truck for me. I have my daily 350PS, so I don't mind taking my time on this. I'm stl in research and souring phase.
 

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So I stumbled upon a transmission. However it's from a 97 dodge. It's the 47re. Great price.. will it hold up to a 4bt? And a found a stand alone computer for it, the TCB930B. Any opinions?
 

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So I stumbled upon a transmission. However it's from a 97 dodge. It's the 47re. Great price.. will it hold up to a 4bt? And a found a stand alone computer for it, the TCB930B. Any opinions?
It holds up to the 6bt, 4bt should work fine... NOTE: The bellhousing bolt pattern is different between the 6bt/V-10 and the V-8 transmissions - Verify that this came out of a 6bt or V-10 truck.
 

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p.s. Do some research on the required flex plate, adapters/spacers (if any), flex plate bolts, torque converter, torque convertor bolts, etc. Not much help here, I have a Ford manual transmission.
 
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