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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
It seems to feel ok I think I will just have to wait and see after driving it. If I need to heat it up and bend it wont be bad at all as it unscrews from the lower part of the shift rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So I got the 2004 5.9 pump in and modded it.
Here is the gas pump verses diesel.


The wiring was easy as the pump and sender and connector where all the same save for the gas pump had a 12inch harness on it. So I cut the body side connector and added 12 inches of wire to it and wire loomed it back up. Looks and works like factory now.

It was way to tall so I cut over 3 inches off the rods and cut one of the springs in half. also shortened the float.



I think I will use the stock VW filter and make a mount out of the bracket that used to hold the charcoal canister. Better ideas lets here them.



The vent system is not to bad but I think I will weld a 1/4 hard line stub onto the filler neck and tie all three vents to it and install a vented gas cap. Does anyone see any issues with this? I cant think of any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Had the shop down the road cut the Dodge power steering line and put a swivel on the end then took the VW pump end and welded a JIC fitting to mate up. So power steering is done.



Fuel system is complete. Put a vent in the filler neck.


Tied all 3 vents together. and I will add a vented fuel cap.


Mounted the VW filter and hooked it all up. Dumped 5 gallons in the tank and turned the key (dodge does a 3 sec prime) and after about 5 tries had the whole system primed. Please ignore the big loops and no clamps as it will be a bit more tidy before it rolls out the garage.




Next is coolant system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
PD150 intake installed. Had to take a little off the old AFN egr port to clear.



Exhaust and intercooler are next. Parts should be here next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Downpipe is done. This was easy as there is tons of room.



This was not so easy but it should work well. Map sensor will mount direct into the intake. I had to an 1/8inch of material there to make it thick enough to capture the oring on the 3bar map. It looks ugly but thats as good as it gets on cast and no tig with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Put the Tcase and drive shaft back in tonight to see if I needed to make it longer. Looks like its only slide out an inch from stock. My concern though is the angle. If I get a vibration I will add a CV joint to the shaft but for now its functional.


My Ideal intercooler install is out front in front of the radiator but that would require reworking and spending a little more than I want to right now. So I opted for the Grand National route. I will fab a scoop up for it and it should do the job.



So apparently I have immobilizer version 3? I thought the tune could wipe that out but it cannot so ECU will be on its way to get that done. But I have plenty to do while I wait for the ECU to come back.
 

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are you going to have any control over your tune? like the newer tuners with 3 available programs? how familiar with the different engines are you. I have a chance at a 200,000 mile '05 Passat, running driving, but no service history. From the sticky in the VW section, this motor has a bad cam shaft issue. does anyone know anymore about this
I am looking at fueling on the Kubota, and so far I have no actionable info. I have been thinking to try and find a different cassette and cam to fit my block. electronic tuning sure sounds like fun
it looks like you are getting closer and closer
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
are you going to have any control over your tune? like the newer tuners with 3 available programs? how familiar with the different engines are you. I have a chance at a 200,000 mile '05 Passat, running driving, but no service history. From the sticky in the VW section, this motor has a bad cam shaft issue. does anyone know anymore about this
I am looking at fueling on the Kubota, and so far I have no actionable info. I have been thinking to try and find a different cassette and cam to fit my block. electronic tuning sure sounds like fun
it looks like you are getting closer and closer
Yes the flashzilla will hold a couple tunes. Im having Malone tune it and he can change it with just and email and a log from VCDS. Im pretty familiar with the Tdi stuff now and a passat of the year is a BHW motor witch is PD (common rail) Not a bad motor at all after you change the cam and eliminate the balance shafts. You can use the bottom end on a ALH for more displacement. I chose the ALH for lots a reasons but mainly as its a VE pump motor and can easily run as a manual pump like 4bts and ETdi like I am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Tonight I got most of the plumbing figured out.


Ill probably get rid of that middle coupler on the outlet intercooler pipe and just weld it as one piece. Also need to make a bracket or 2 for the radiator pipes to stabilize them near the power steering pump.


 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So I got the ECU back Friday which was 3 days earlier than expected. Thanks to David at Fastforward.ca for getting it back to me so quickly!

I popped the ecu in and she fired right up and stayed running. Then I installed the race 520 injectors from DBW. After getting all the air out of the lines it was running once again. Only code is no cluster (Obviously) and glow plug relay as I have not wired them up yet.



I might have burned up my power steering pump as I forgot to top it off while it idled for a few minutes. Hopefully its ok. I will find out soon enough. I have a few things to button up before its ready to back out of the garage. I am shooting for next week for a shake down run. https://youtu.be/Ga5F4TFstZI
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Took the dash apart to mount a cheap EGT/Boost/Temp gauge.


replaced some blown bulbs in the dash and put it back together.



After heat cycling it and topping off the coolant (or so I thought) we backed it out of the garage under its own power. Still waiting on my fan switch to get here so I alligator clipped the fan relay just so we could take it for a drive. That didnt last long as the coolant temp started to climb past 200 eventually jumping above 230 but dropped at idle. I had to have an air pocket or stuck thermostat. We let it cool down and I pulled the thermostat also picked up a new one and boiled them both in the kitchen. The old one started to open at 180 and new one started at 190. But they both worked so it had to be an air pocket. I put the new tstat back in and it did the same thing. So I thought maybe water pump spinning on the shaft? So I proceeded to do my timing belt install a little earlier than expected. So this might have been timing belt job 3? on this cam sprocket as it decided to crack. So Im waiting on a new sprocket and bolt. Should be here by Thursday.

O yea the old water pump was fine. Metal impeller and had to have been replaced on the last belt job. I am now starting to think I just had a massive air pocket. I will venturi vac fill it and I think that will fix it. I might also drill a small hole in the thermostat.

At least it sounds like a real truck now.
 

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Ideally, the radiator cap needs to be the highest point in the cooling system. If it's not, you won't be able to get all the air out by just filling it. My truck has this problem to some degree also. I fill it up as much as I can, and then start the engine. With the engine running, the water pump pulls enough water through the engine that I can get it mostly filled up. It does take a few heat and cool cycles for it to pull in the full amount from the overflow tank on mine.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The issue on the ALH is the install angle with the hose routing and the fact the tstat has no hole it it at all. The solution I hope is to pop the small bleed radiator hose off the back corner of the head and let it vent to atmosphere while I fill it. This should let me fill the whole system save for the heater core that will only fill halfway. But heat cycle and driving up a steep hill should finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So timing belt and water pump completed. I also filled the coolant system by popping the small bleed hose off the back of the head and sure enough you could hear the rush of air come out and fill the block up. Put that hose back on and popped the upper hearer core hose to let that trapped air escape. I let it idle and it warmed up to 192F and stayed there as the thermostat opened up. Timing is set and it runs very smooth now.




I hope to knock out a few more things tomorrow like a new power steering pump to fix the one that I burned up and driveshaft ujoints and then take it for a real test drive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsqpv3dJibg
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well I drove it today to take my power steering core back to the parts store and it was eventful. Cooling seems fine but it did get to 208F but came down to 195 at idle. I have the smaller port of the aft coolant flange looped right back into the suction hard line below it. I might cap this off so the suction line is only pulling from the oilcooler-heater core-return pipe. Not sure as i will give it a few more heat cycles.

As I left the parts store I noticed the dodge voltage meter drop and confirmed with torque pro. It kept running all the way to the driveway at only 11.2 volts. So the original 90amp died. I will pick up a reman bosch 120amp unit.

Its got good power but needs some tweeking. I need to check the IQ to make sure its in range. was going to that today but broke stuff and all killed my time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thanks. its all the little things that are keeping me from driving it now.

I put the 120amp alt on and its back to running. Last major hurtle is getting the RPM signal to work. I am trying to use a dakota digital box to fire it off and was working on that today for about an hour. I tried pin 27 and the W line off the alternator but still not working. Ill try to parallel the ALH crank signal next. Did I read right that the ALH is a 60-2 crank trigger? I haven't figured that out yet.

At the same time I had the fuel pump relay pulled for other reasons while it was idling and I noticed air bubbles in the clear inlet fuel line and soon after enough to starve the IP and so the engine died. There is plenty of fuel in the tank. So does this mean the IP wont pull through the cummins lift pump? The reason I used the cummins lift pump was I thought if it died it would still be able to run. Any 5.9 guys know if thats true? Its a 2004 dodge 5.9 in tank assembly. you can see pics in previous post. Maby the H connector between the return and feed has something to do with it? I caint have that I will have to fix it.
 

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for your tach, did you try and use your OE senders and harness, with a real crank position from your flywheel , and a faked or partial cam signal. Also some have had success jumping the cam signal into or onto the crank signal. or make a full independent tone ring

have fun
 
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