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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I could do the tone ring on the front of the crank and I still might but I wanted to try the $80 box first. One reason is a slightly cleaner look another is I will probably get a fluiddamper eventually. Also its been done already before on a jeep liberty ALH conversion so I know its possible. I just need time to figure it out.
 

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what about the original crank position system you already have.
are the rest of your gauges working?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Im just using the signal wires from the position sensors fed into the DDigital box. I did get it to spit out a 500 RPM on the tach when in the 2K rpm fake mode. all the rest of my gauges work as they are analog for the most part. The Tach and MPH are CAN buss fed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Tach is fixed! This should apply to any 4.7 with a 16 tooth crank. If you had a 32 tooth (changed around 2003 I believe) it probably wont work with the dakota digital DSL-1e box. You would need there speedometer box to get enough resolution. It might work if it was originally a v6 truck.

I am using a DSL-1E box set to gear tooth with a tooth count of 1 with 8cyl output using pin 27/121 for signal and putting the dodge crank signal in normal slot and the cam signal in out3 (1/2 output). It works every time.
https://youtu.be/OUt7UuD0x3U
 

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Making great progress. On your fuel system, it isn't usually a good idea to have multiple fuel pumps in the system. The air bubbles indicate you must have an air leak somewhere. Need to work that out.
 

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Making great progress. On your fuel system, it isn't usually a good idea to have multiple fuel pumps in the system. The air bubbles indicate you must have an air leak somewhere. Need to work that out.
Agreed. It is probably an air leak. My wife's Jeep Liberty CRD would occasionally get air in fuel issues. The Jeep Liberty 2.8L VM Motori diesel uses the Bosch CP3 injection pump. It did not come with an in-tank lift pump. I installed a Carter P76148M in the fuel tank and haven't had an issue since. The Carter P76148M is intended for use in the 2005-2009 Dodge 2500/3500 diesel trucks. If it fails, the CP3 can still draw through the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Making great progress. On your fuel system, it isn't usually a good idea to have multiple fuel pumps in the system. The air bubbles indicate you must have an air leak somewhere. Need to work that out.
Agreed. It is probably an air leak. My wife's Jeep Liberty CRD would occasionally get air in fuel issues. The Jeep Liberty 2.8L VM Motori diesel uses the Bosch CP3 injection pump. It did not come with an in-tank lift pump. I installed a Carter P76148M in the fuel tank and haven't had an issue since. The Carter P76148M is intended for use in the 2005-2009 Dodge 2500/3500 diesel trucks. If it fails, the CP3 can still draw through the pump.
Not sure I understand. I only have one lift pump. Its a stock 98-2004 cummins pump. I dont know what that little "H" connector does?

I though it could be the source of air with no fuel pump running. As long as my pump is running I have solid fuel supply and no air. The return does go to the stock VW filter to heat it and those orings are a common leak source but I am not loosing the fuel prime at all. I heard that the ve pump can suck in air without leaking fuel when that shaft seal gets old. I might pop it off and seal it up as I have a seal kit.
 

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The 4.7 originally had a 16-1 gear tooth on the crankshaft and you were able to feed that with the DDigital box?

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
 

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Sorry, thought you were running 2 lift pumps. One in tank and one outside. It's interesting, I couldn't find any pressure specs for that Carter pump. They list the flow rate at 68 GPH but no mention of the pressure. I assume it's adequate for the VW's injection pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The 4.7 originally had a 16-1 gear tooth on the crankshaft and you were able to feed that with the DDigital box?

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
Yep just the dsl1e box.

Sorry, thought you were running 2 lift pumps. One in tank and one outside. It's interesting, I couldn't find any pressure specs for that Carter pump. They list the flow rate at 68 GPH but no mention of the pressure. I assume it's adequate for the VW's injection pump.
Im running the E7187M lift pump. You dont happen to know the purpose of the "H" connector do you. I have asked on several boards with no response not even a guess.
 

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Im running the E7187M lift pump. You dont happen to know the purpose of the "H" connector do you. I have asked on several boards with no response not even a guess.
I am pretty sure its a pressure regulator, the factory in tank pump on my 99 dodge ran 5-9 psi to the injector pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I am pretty sure its a pressure regulator, the factory in tank pump on my 99 dodge ran 5-9 psi to the injector pump.
That would make sense. Thank you. my tank is less than half full right now and that H regulator is sitting above the fuel level right now. I bet its sucking some air from that when I try to run without the fuel pump on. Next time Im in the tank I will use that 3rd capped off port to run a draw straw on a manual y-valve so if the pump does fail I can bypass it.
 

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That would make sense. Thank you. my tank is less than half full right now and that H regulator is sitting above the fuel level right now. I bet its sucking some air from that when I try to run without the fuel pump on. Next time Im in the tank I will use that 3rd capped off port to run a draw straw on a manual y-valve so if the pump does fail I can bypass it.
It might not hurt to reverse pressure test the unit somehow and check for leaks with soapy water. My 05 Ram had been converted from in tank pump to draw straw+external pump just before i bought it. It kept stalling and I couldn't maintain prime, bubbles in fuel all the time. Turns out whoever installed the draw straw cracked one of those fluted plastic tubes and it was sucking air whenever the tank was less than half full. Those hard lines can get brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
It might not hurt to reverse pressure test the unit somehow and check for leaks with soapy water. My 05 Ram had been converted from in tank pump to draw straw+external pump just before i bought it. It kept stalling and I couldn't maintain prime, bubbles in fuel all the time. Turns out whoever installed the draw straw cracked one of those fluted plastic tubes and it was sucking air whenever the tank was less than half full. Those hard lines can get brittle.
Good to know I will keep that in mind. I used clear line everywhere so it will be a little easier to diagnose if I do have an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Well I drove it home tonight and filled up the tank. There still some stuff to get done for sure but its good enough for commuter duty. Ill find out in the morning traffic. The major issue is the speedometer isnt working and ABS and airbag light is on. Its all related I believe as the wheel speed signal from the rear end goes to the ABS module and it spits out the VSS signal for the speedo. Unfortunately I caint find a reset sequence that dosent involve a DRB3. So I might have to pony up $120 and have the dealer clear it. I will load up some better video when I can this is all I got for now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7alp140bMl8
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·


First commute today was a success. It was in the 40s this morning and almost 80F on the way home my 48 mile round trip to work. Finally found a tbolt clamp small enough for the BV43a outlet so I could actually get on it if need be as it was popping off at 12lbs. There is plenty of torque but it will need a gear change when I can afford it. A minimum 4.10 for sure. 5th gear is only for land speed records. .73 5th on 30.5 inch tire with 3.55s is only 2000rpm at 70mph. So for now I keep it in 4th to keep the EGT happy.

List of things yet to do.

Fix speedo/ABS--Have to swing by the dealer to DRB3 it.

Complete the exhaust.

Finish aero shrouding around intercooler

Brake switch bracket /cruise control

Need an alignment and tires

Cleanup harness loom under hood.

Front pumpkin needs to go back in after gear swap.

There is some tweaking to be done on the tune also I just need to send some logs off

Thats it for now updates when I have them.
 

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Congrats on the rolling project, how high were the egts in 5th?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
EGTs were fine in 5th on a slight hill at 950F and no higher than 1250F. but if I accelerate in 5th to pass it will climb to 1500. this turbos limit is 1650. I still need to finalize the tune and address the intercooler. those will help alot. Gearing is just out of the range of ok. If I had factory 3.92s that would be perfect but I couldent find any so i will have to get 4.10 most likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Ive been driving it all week and have just about 350 miles on the first tank and its just bellow the half tank mark. Speedo is still not working so numbers are approximate. So far its a blast to drive at 27psi it will move and the low end torque is great. Tune needs to be tweaked at the part throttle a little bit. A gear change will help also. I bit the bullet and ordered 4.11s I hopefully can get that done in the next few weeks so I can fix the speedo.

I missed getting to the scrap yard by just a few minutes today. Wont get much for the 4.7 but the cats are worth somthing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Finally got off work in time to make it to the scrap yard before they closed. It was close to 600lbs I would say 540 of it was the v8. When I pulled back onto the scale with a half tank of diesel and no front diff it was just over 4200lbs So when the front diff goes back in it will probably be right at 4350. Not bad Id say it lost close to 100lbs as last year I had it on the same scale dumping the blown rear axle and it was 4440 with the v8.
 
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