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Hey all,
My swap was a relatively simple one. I started out with a 2001 2wd drive quad cab Dakota. I wanted a bed for hauling stuff, but still have room in the back for a car seat. So far it fits that bill perfectly.



The Dakota started out with a 4.7 L v8, 45 rfe automatic transmission, and a 9.25" Chrysler rear end with 3.55 gears. It now has a stock rotary pumped 4bt with a 47 rh transmission and the same rear end, though I am looking for a good priced set of 2.94 gears for the rear. Tires are stock size 255/65/16's.
I intended, and was successful, to not use any lift on the vehicle. The oil pan had to be modified (pics of it to come) to fit around the front crossmember and swaybar. Basically, the sump was cut to about 6 inches front to back, but I can still run 2 gallons of oil in it. It actually fit better in the truck as a front sump. As you can see from the pictures, the engine sits back very far in the engine bay. I think there is about 10 inches between the front of the engine and the radiator. That makes it so easy to work on the front. For no lift, I had to find a starter that would not interfere with the frame of the steering. The only one I found that would work, and I tried many, is one form the 6.7 L Dodge.



The motor mounts are located on the front driver side of the motor and the rear passenger side. The mounts are from an early 90's ford van, are very robust, and only $18 a piece. The third mounting point is the rear of the transmission. Interesting note, the transmission mount for the 45 rfe and the 47 rh are identical. Also, placement of the motor allowed me to run the original driveshaft without any modifications.





I'm running all the original brakes and power steering form the Dakota with a dodge PS/Vac pump unit.



The front of the motor consists of a dodge cummins idler, fan pulley, and water pump. Also, I've used the original Dakota ac compressor, and a delco alternator.



It’s using a small Holset turbo, and I'd love if you turbo knowledgeable guys could tell me which one. It has a 2 3/8" inch inlet and I can tell you anything you need that the picture doesn't show. This is the same turbo that is one my explorer and my father in law's '88 ranger which both get great mileage.



The interior is pretty much stock, but I mounted a 3 gauge cluster for oil pressure, amp gauge and boost.



Air cleaner is form a John Deere tractor, not sure which model. It is the same type of filter used on the explorer and the ranger, both of which have gone well over 100,000 miles on a single element with no loss in boost pressure.



So far it drives great. I'm getting about 25 mpg, but really need the other gears to see how it will do. The injection pump is actually turned back to about 90 hp, but the way it drives, I don't intend to turn it up. It will make about 17 pounds of boost max, with most of my driving in the 3-8 psi range. Everything else on the vehicle works besides what I'm about to list.

Cruise Control: My cruise doesn't work right now, but I think I know why. The computer does not have a signal to tell it what gear the transmission is in (I still have to do that), so my guess is it won't turn on the cruise because it doesn't know that it is in drive.

Tachometer: Just have to pull the target wheel from the v8 and mount it, then the tach should work.

Fuel gauge: This one has me stumped unless the sending unit is bad, but it worked before the swap. Any ideas? By the way, I added a vent at the highest part of the tank and it now holds 29 gallons.

I'm sure there are more questions that will come up, but I would love to hear your feedback.

Enjoy!
 

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Super conversion, the 4bt sits in there like it was made to fit! Are you going to tidy the engine bay wiring alittle? Would look like stock then!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Super conversion, the 4bt sits in there like it was made to fit! Are you going to tidy the engine bay wiring alittle? Would look like stock then!
Definitly plan to clean up the wiring. I would like to take it to dodge and show it to them if it looks stock enough. I think they should do it themselves!

Thanks
 

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i like these quad cabs... in brazil less than 900 were made, but just a few were diesels... brazilian diesel dakotas are known to have engine head failures, so many owners swap the original 2.5L turbodiesel r425ohv engine, but i never saw one with a 4bt...


and i really don't understand why dodge never offered a 4bt dakota as a regular offer in the u.s....
 

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This is almost exactly what I want to do for my truck. Do you have anymore pictures or information on your motor mounts? How did you get the stock AC compressor to mount to the 4bt?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is almost exactly what I want to do for my truck. Do you have anymore pictures or information on your motor mounts? How did you get the stock AC compressor to mount to the 4bt?
I could get you some part numbers on the mounts I used. All brackets for the mounts and the ac compressor were hand made, so you can't buy them. One option that I didn't go with, but you have to notch the frame slightly, would be to use everything of the front of an early 90's ram. All my accessories are in roughly the same spot, except the compressor. Dodge put the comprssor low on the passenger side mounted with the lower water neck, and that is where the frame would have to be notched.
 

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isnt the a/c compressor mounted like that on the 6bt?why not us ethe stock mounts?nice work.It looks like it would solve the frame clearance issue,it seems tighter to the block
 

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isnt the a/c compressor mounted like that on the 6bt?why not us ethe stock mounts?nice work.It looks like it would solve the frame clearance issue,it seems tighter to the block
I'm sure it varies with different years. I know there is one model that mounts it low passeneger side with the water neck. I didn't use that for two reasons. One, I'd have had to notch the frame, but mainly, I'm cheap. I already had the compressor from the Dakota. Plus, I want to do this as close to what I think dodge should do. Other than the delco alternator (which I had so it meets the cheap requirement), everything is either dakota or ram.
 

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I could get you some part numbers on the mounts I used. All brackets for the mounts and the ac compressor were hand made, so you can't buy them. One option that I didn't go with, but you have to notch the frame slightly, would be to use everything of the front of an early 90's ram. All my accessories are in roughly the same spot, except the compressor. Dodge put the comprssor low on the passenger side mounted with the lower water neck, and that is where the frame would have to be notched.
I meant do you have any better pictures on how you made the AC bracket and your mounts? Any shots of the underside and how you had to clearance the oil pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I meant do you have any better pictures on how you made the AC bracket and your mounts? Any shots of the underside and how you had to clearance the oil pan?
Yeah, I just have to pull them down off a different. I'll try to get them over the weekend.
 

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if you need a gear shifter sender let me know. I have a dakota digital unit that I used for my swap when i had an automatic. I never got it working perfectly but maybe you will have better luck.

I never got the cruise to work.

how did you wire your fuel shutoff solenoid?

did you have any issues getting the 3 wire alternator to charge with the stock voltage regulator?

Does the stock electric fan work? (if yours had one my 5.9 did)

very cool swap, maybe one day i will do another one :)
 

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:eek:
Hey all,
My swap was a relatively simple one. I started out with a 2001 2wd drive quad cab Dakota. I wanted a bed for hauling stuff, but still have room in the back for a car seat. So far it fits that bill perfectly.



The Dakota started out with a 4.7 L v8, 45 rfe automatic transmission, and a 9.25" Chrysler rear end with 3.55 gears. It now has a stock rotary pumped 4bt with a 47 rh transmission and the same rear end, though I am looking for a good priced set of 2.94 gears for the rear. Tires are stock size 255/65/16's.
I intended, and was successful, to not use any lift on the vehicle. The oil pan had to be modified (pics of it to come) to fit around the front crossmember and swaybar. Basically, the sump was cut to about 6 inches front to back, but I can still run 2 gallons of oil in it. It actually fit better in the truck as a front sump. As you can see from the pictures, the engine sits back very far in the engine bay. I think there is about 10 inches between the front of the engine and the radiator. That makes it so easy to work on the front. For no lift, I had to find a starter that would not interfere with the frame of the steering. The only one I found that would work, and I tried many, is one form the 6.7 L Dodge.



The motor mounts are located on the front driver side of the motor and the rear passenger side. The mounts are from an early 90's ford van, are very robust, and only $18 a piece. The third mounting point is the rear of the transmission. Interesting note, the transmission mount for the 45 rfe and the 47 rh are identical. Also, placement of the motor allowed me to run the original driveshaft without any modifications.





I'm running all the original brakes and power steering form the Dakota with a dodge PS/Vac pump unit.



The front of the motor consists of a dodge cummins idler, fan pulley, and water pump. Also, I've used the original Dakota ac compressor, and a delco alternator.



It’s using a small Holset turbo, and I'd love if you turbo knowledgeable guys could tell me which one. It has a 2 3/8" inch inlet and I can tell you anything you need that the picture doesn't show. This is the same turbo that is one my explorer and my father in law's '88 ranger which both get great mileage.



The interior is pretty much stock, but I mounted a 3 gauge cluster for oil pressure, amp gauge and boost.



Air cleaner is form a John Deere tractor, not sure which model. It is the same type of filter used on the explorer and the ranger, both of which have gone well over 100,000 miles on a single element with no loss in boost pressure.



So far it drives great. I'm getting about 25 mpg, but really need the other gears to see how it will do. The injection pump is actually turned back to about 90 hp, but the way it drives, I don't intend to turn it up. It will make about 17 pounds of boost max, with most of my driving in the 3-8 psi range. Everything else on the vehicle works besides what I'm about to list.

Cruise Control: My cruise doesn't work right now, but I think I know why. The computer does not have a signal to tell it what gear the transmission is in (I still have to do that), so my guess is it won't turn on the cruise because it doesn't know that it is in drive.

Tachometer: Just have to pull the target wheel from the v8 and mount it, then the tach should work.

Fuel gauge: This one has me stumped unless the sending unit is bad, but it worked before the swap. Any ideas? By the way, I added a vent at the highest part of the tank and it now holds 29 gallons.

I'm sure there are more questions that will come up, but I would love to hear your feedback.

Enjoy!
:eek:Wow is that 4bt really turning 7grand:D
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
if you need a gear shifter sender let me know. I have a dakota digital unit that I used for my swap when i had an automatic. I never got it working perfectly but maybe you will have better luck.

I never got the cruise to work.

how did you wire your fuel shutoff solenoid?

did you have any issues getting the 3 wire alternator to charge with the stock voltage regulator?

Does the stock electric fan work? (if yours had one my 5.9 did)

very cool swap, maybe one day i will do another one :)
Thanks,

The fuel shut off solenoid is run by a wire coming out of the computer. I forget what it used to do, but it is hot in on and start, so it works.

No trouble making the alternator charge. One large charging wire goes from the alternator to the junction box where it is connected to the battery. A second wire connects to the battery from the alternator, to make it charge, and the third wire is 12 volts from the ignition. I had a problem with a widely varying voltage regulator. The amp gauge would swing back and forth like it was vibrating, so I added a capacitor in series with the voltage regulator wire. That solved the problem.

I don't know if the electric fan works or not. It is hooked up, but I'm not sure when the dakota tells it to come on. I have another electric fan that will mount in front the ac radiator (I never remember if it is an evaporator or condensor) so I can push and pull through the radiators when the ac is on.
 

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Thanks,

The fuel shut off solenoid is run by a wire coming out of the computer. I forget what it used to do, but it is hot in on and start, so it works.

No trouble making the alternator charge. One large charging wire goes from the alternator to the junction box where it is connected to the battery. A second wire connects to the battery from the alternator, to make it charge, and the third wire is 12 volts from the ignition. I had a problem with a widely varying voltage regulator. The amp gauge would swing back and forth like it was vibrating, so I added a capacitor in series with the voltage regulator wire. That solved the problem.

I don't know if the electric fan works or not. It is hooked up, but I'm not sure when the dakota tells it to come on. I have another electric fan that will mount in front the ac radiator (I never remember if it is an evaporator or condensor) so I can push and pull through the radiators when the ac is on.
sounds almost like the alternator is charging all the time if i understand exactly how you have it wired. I had good luck with my ford voltage regulator, just make sure the body of the regulator is grounded well, or it won't work correctly.

if it works it works though, but the regulator would probably put less load on the alternator.
 

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Very nice, this is probably going to be in my near future too. I love dakotas, and could use a smaller diesel truck for daily driving.

Great job!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
sounds almost like the alternator is charging all the time if i understand exactly how you have it wired. I had good luck with my ford voltage regulator, just make sure the body of the regulator is grounded well, or it won't work correctly.

if it works it works though, but the regulator would probably put less load on the alternator.
It should be "charging" all the time in the sense that it is always powering any electronics in the vehicle. Then, if the battery volatage drops low enough, it will charge the battery. I'm ignorant of alternator wiring, what are the other options?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Here are some more build pics.



Removing the old v8.



Here is the empty engine bay. With the front sump on the motor, no cross member work was done. Oil pan was shortened to fit. Hopefully you can see the process below.




The second piece that was removed slid to meet the sump, and another piece was fabricated to fill the gap that it left.



Doing this to the pan cleared all crossmembers, steering racks, and sway bars, but it was close to one steering line where it went into the rack. If I could have found a metric elbow, I could have rerouted the line, but instead, the oil pan was notched with a piece of angle iron.



For those that do work to your oil pan, notice the set up we were using. It worked pretty good. We put a flat solid piece of metal between the pan and a spare block. Air pressure in through the oil drain hole and soapy water shows all the leaks.


Belt routing and accessories.



Prepping for paint

 

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Discussion Starter #20





Here she is after a coat of POR-15 "semi" gloss. Looks pretty glossy to me. Can any turbo guys tell me what that turbo might be. It is a holset.



Front drivers side motor mount.




Rear passenger side mount.



Shows where the pan had to be notched to clear the steering line.
 
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