Figured it was time to do something about the supercharger hole, last week it rained hard enough to cool my engine. By the time I pulled into my drive way my water temp was all the way down......













I am debating on leaving the back of the cover open, I think it gives it a cool look. letting people know theres something there lol. I think it would also help cool the supercharger while the truck is moving.

 

Awesome work. I had been following your rig for a bit. I originally found your build as I wanted to put a M122 on my powerstroke and did so a few months ago. I upgraded recently to a Eaton 2.3 TVS which is a bolt on upgrade for the M122. I love the TVS. Lower temps, lots more air, higher effeciency, and quieter.

 

Thanks, the M122 is good size for the 4BT, if I can score a 2.3 TVS for the right price I might swap them out some day lol. I honestly don't care to much about my intake temps at this point, because my EGT temps are pretty low.

How are you running your TVS? is the charger feeding the turbo or the turbo feeding the charger?

 

The TVS feeds thru a FMIC then into the turbo. I'm only spinning the TVS to 11,000. @ 4000rpm I plan to have the snake bite overdriven gears to speed up the blower or build a double drive pulley system. The TVS red line is 19,000 rpm. I am actually running a VMP tuning 2nd generation TVS.

 

Finished the supercharger tunnel, isn't to bad. I could of spent more time bondoing the hood.

 

Short drive showing the compounded boost, the beginning and around 3min in are the best parts. The rest is just driving down the road.

 

Hows the power feel? Looks like u need another boost gauge... lol

 

Pretty good, I max out my boost gauge before I get to half throttle, I'm going to be running a road rage LCD with a 50 psi sensor pretty soon.

 

One thing about it, there sure isn't any boost lag on that engine. Touch the accelerator and it's there. Probably made a whole different animal out of the 4bt. It would be interesting to know how the fuel economy is affected with the sc versus turbos only. One sure thing, it definitely has the cool factor.

 

Any idea on hp numbers ? Should be pretty good with all your mods

 

Also did you drive it with just the he341ve ? If so how did it respond ?

 

Well I decided to build a new motor, not to sure where its going to end up but its going to have a 4BT block, P7100 pump with a QSB 4.5 head.

Here's some pictures of the block; made my own electrolysis rust removal tub to help clean it up. Came out pretty good, pulled out a lot of crud that was built up in the block. Only had it in there over night if I kept it in there for a few days it probably would of looked brand new. I used a 24 volt, 60 amp power supply for the electrolysis.

 

Isn't the 4.5 head a four valve? I thought you couldn't put one of those on a 3.9 because of the water and oil passages switched?

-vr4oaks

 

Yup its a 4 valve! All of the 4BT block holes line up to the QSB 4.5 head. Now the head does have additional water passages in between the cylinders. I'm going to tap and plug them. Other then that, everything lines up.

Another issue is the injector tip holes are 8 mm, I'm going to drill them out to 9mm. Either use 9mm tips or the 9 to 7 reducer.

This is a slow build, cleaned the block up which is now getting powder coated. Next is getting the head machined in a month or two then pistons. I don't except this to be together until next summer.

 

On the injectors, why not use the 24 valve Dodge units. They would be a direct bolt in. You'd need the injectors, hold downs, and delivery tubes. Just like putting a P pump on a 24 valve. For pistons, the common rails seem to have a better combustion chamber. Are you sure all the oil passages line up? I looked at using one of those heads and there were several that didn't match. You might could bore holes in the block for the little water passages to match the head. Don't know how critical they are to the head cooling. You might want to compare a 16 valve head gasket to the 8 valve.

 

Placing the 4bt head gasket on the 4.5 head, everything looked alright except for the water passages in between the cylinders.

I'm going to use the 24valve injector bodies, but the injector tips are 7mm. The common rail injector bodies use 8mm tips and you cant swap them over. Swapped P-Pump common rails use the 24 valve injectors with 7mm tips they just don't worry about the .5mm space around the tip.

Talked to a couple injector shops who've done common-rail p-pumps and they told me not to worry about it. But I think machining it out to 9mm would be worth the tight fit.

 

I thought you might have overlooked a couple of holes other than the little ones between the cylinders. When I was working toward that project, seems there were a couple that didn't line up. Needed a small groove in the block for an oil passage to get to the head and reshape one other to match the head. Which head gasket do you intend to use, 4bt or QSB? I'm thinking the ISBe and QSB use a 2 piece gasket.

 

I forgot to ask, what shape are the exhaust ports?

-vr4oaks

 

Round

 

Here is the HE300VG I am going to use in my compound. Added a V-band to the intake and a V-band to the exhaust flange.

 

Are the specs on the HE300VG essentially the same as the HE351ve?

 

No the 300 uses a 58mm wheel

 

I guess that puts it about half way between the 341 and 351.

 

Here's a picture of the powder coated block. Once I get the intake milled on the head its getting painted as well.



Here's a side by side of the HE221W and HE300VG. Nuts how much bigger the HE300VG is in comparison.





Also drilled out the waste gate port on the HE221W, I wanted to ensure I had as much flow as possible.

 

Does the wastegate still seal? Looks close...

 

It's close, its right on the edge. I was thinking of replacing the flap with a bigger one so I can bore it out some more.

 

You get the head sealed nice and tight?

-vr4oaks

 

lol no, cant tell there's no crank in the block? I put the head on the block to keep it out of the way and put a gasket under there to keep it from scratching. Its a slow progress, right now im look at what I need to get the compounds setup and looking for a machine shop that can do the work on the block. I want to machine out the cam bores so I can run 5 bearing.

 

I'm on a cell and didn't look too closely.

-vr4oaks

 

Wild project. Is the mill work on the head so it will clear the P pump? Those turbos look like baby bear and papa bear. She's going to be something. Can't wait to see more.

 

The intake from what I've been told wont clear the P-pump unless I cut a portion or machine it completely off. So I think a runner intake would be my best bet. I'm thinking of welding the waste gate shut and see if SteedSpeed will make me a T25 manifold with a 60mm waste gate. I have 60mm Turbo Smart sitting in my garage I was planning on using for a supercharger bypass valve, figure I should make use of it. I'm a little worried the 6cm housing and tiny exhaust manifold are going to become a restriction in lighting the HE300VG.

I'm on a cell and didn't look too closely.

-vr4oaks

lol no worries, I would of assumed the same thing.

 

Epic welding the vbands right to the flange/intake. What sort of air mass flow are you aiming for here? How much fuel?