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Discussion starter · #202 · (Edited)
The truck is back on its wheels! Next week ill be going over nuts and bolts, bleeding the breaks and powersteering. There's still a lot of stuff that needs some work but its close. Hopefully it ll be back on the road by the end of next week.

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Discussion starter · #204 ·
Thanks, the tires are ProComp 35x12.5 on 16" diy bead locks

the springs are 200/200 I need a higher spring rate, I have 3" preload on the passenger side and 4.5" on the driver side. the passenger side it still a bit higher but not by much.
 
Discussion starter · #205 ·
Got the truck on the road! Pretty stoked its a freaking dog, slow as hell dosnt want to boost or nothing. Tottaly killed my 4bt high lol I was topping out at 25 in 2nd or 3rd.... really sad.


So today I installed my afc kit, 7x10 injectors, .024 dv and afc. Night and day differance but the turbo still isn't lighting so tomorrow I'll m going to reprogram the trubo controlllet and hopefully make 30psi at least!

Anyways the engine seems to run awesome the only thong it smokes its like a whiteish color I guess is unburnet fuel.

.any ideas?
 
I've been interested to see how that turbo does on the 4bt with the fleece controller. I have one of those turbos sitting on my shelf and tried buying one of those controllers from them and they never did send me one, wouldn't return my calls or anything, I guess they don't want my money... Anyways the color of the smoke will tell you more, If it's a blueish white smoke it usually means your burning coolant. Coolant will have that sweetish smell to it as well, which is harder to pick out in diesel exhaust. White usually means oil (I think, may have that backwards) Unburnt fuel is usually gray (if it's not hot enough to burn) or black. Anybody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Good luck with the roading process, that was the most exciting part of my build, getting it on the road and tinkering/tweaking.
 
Discussion starter · #209 ·
The truck is running way better but i still cant build any boost, the only boost i can make is up around 2400 rpms right when the governor kicks in.

I ran my boost gauge to the AFC, i don't think running it to the AFC would give me a false reading or anything?

 
Discussion starter · #213 ·
Still tinkering around, just figured out how to remove the injection pump.

Getting 4K governor springs installed, rack plug, advancing the timing 18 degrees and getting a new stop bracket for the fuel shut off since i seemed to of lost mine.

Hopefully this will solve my boost and power issues, or at least get a little better.

 
Discussion starter · #215 ·
just picked up my injection pump up from H&H diesel, was set at 10* so I had them advance it to 18* as well as install a 4k governor spring. Current fuel settings were tested at 330 CCs. Hopefully this will get my Tacoma moving a little better.



I find it interesting that these pumps are pressed on the gear instead of slotted, although Cummins made a slot in the pump for the gear?



Is there an aftermarket gear and key to help hold these pumps in place?
 
Man I can't believe I haven't seen your build thread before. I just completed a 4BTAA swap to my 89 land cruiser while I was in Iraq. I also had some boost issues, but mainly dealing with high EGTs now. I think I'm going to regear to fix that EGT problem. Keep us posted.
My boost issue was from a bent shaft from the CHRA, once I replaced the CHRA things worked out, but I get around 1000 degrees (EGT) on the highway at 2000 RPMs, it's a bit lower when the ambient temperature isn't so high. You might need a smaller turbo to spool faster. I'm still figuring my rig out, so I may be off on some of my advice.
below is my build if you're interested.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/505908-big-red-toy-21.html#post8647981
 
Discussion starter · #217 ·
Man I can't believe I haven't seen your build thread before. I just completed a 4BTAA swap to my 89 land cruiser while I was in Iraq. I also had some boost issues, but mainly dealing with high EGTs now. I think I'm going to regear to fix that EGT problem. Keep us posted.
My boost issue was from a bent shaft from the CHRA, once I replaced the CHRA things worked out, but I get around 1000 degrees (EGT) on the highway at 2000 RPMs, it's a bit lower when the ambient temperature isn't so high. You might need a smaller turbo to spool faster. I'm still figuring my rig out, so I may be off on some of my advice.
below is my build if you're interested.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/505908-big-red-toy-21.html#post8647981
Yeah i'm still paying around with fuel, after moving my timing from 10* to 18*, adding a rack plug and 4K governor it became a lot more fun to drive. I put the stock plate back in, trying to control smoke. before i would peg my 35 PSI gauge and smoke like a train. now its considerably less but i'm only making 15 PSI.

Its a work in progress, i want to go from 3.54 gears to 4.1 and i have a ARB locker i need to install.
 
Discussion starter · #218 ·
Well I've been toying with the idea of attempting to supercharge my 4BT since i started the build, last night i broke down and starting getting parts lol.

Scrolling though eBay i came across a Eaton M122 for $500 bucks, it came off a 2008 Shelby GT500 with about 10,000 miles on it. couldn't resist :beer:



My plan is to mount the supercharger on the drivers side right on top of the intake, so the turbo will push into the supercharger. I'm planning on rigging a waste gate to the bypass valve, so when the turbo hits 10 PSI it will push the bypass valve open. This should lower the restriction for the turbo.

I'm hoping i can make it idle with 5 PSI from the supercharger then at around 1800 rpms it should make 10 PSI, at this point the turbo should be making close to the same and should take over from that point.

This should also allow me to have the VGT veins opened up more at idle, and in the mid RPM band. Hopefully this will lower drive pressure and EGTs
 
On your question about a pump gear with a keyway, the adjustable timing gears have that. You send your gear to the guys and they send you one back with a keyway and adjustment slots so you can adjust to your hearts content. Also you'd want the billet aluminum front cover with the removable ports to adjust without removing the cover. JD's Diesel Performance seems to have the best price. The front cover is a nice piece and would give some bling.
 

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