Here’s a pic of the engine mounted and the transmission. The engine sits really well inside the engine bay with no body lift, There is about 2" of space from the front of the clutch fan to the back of the radiator, however it’s very tall and is almost touching my cross over steering and E-locker. The transmission is about 8-10" shorter than the Toyota R150F and you can see its going to need a bent shifter or a relocation bracket of some sorts.

 

Any good ideas for hydroboost systems that will lockup dana 60 and a dana 70 with 35"s ... i'm also still looking for an oil filter relocation kit

 

Got any pics of your motor mounts yet?

 

Sorry no new pics yet…

Anyone know the weight of the 4BT/6BT flywheels? I’m guessing around 40-50 lbs. I was thinking if they are really heavy, having a custom flywheel made around 25-30lbs would have quicker acceleration. I’m planning on running a Dodge Dana 70 rear with 3.54 gears so ill be running around 1880RPMs at 75 MPH with 35” tires. I was thinking the lighter flywheel with help out a lot more since I’m not planning on towing anything crazy and this is going to be my daily driver.

Other upgrades I’m planning for next year when this is finished, getting dynode at dynamite diesels... New cam from hamilton cams… turbo upgrade and new injectors I’m also looking for a cut down individual runner intake plenum http://www.puredieselpower.com/cata...498-dodge-59l-valve-cummins-custom-individual-runner-intake-plenum-p-25147.html hopefully these upgrades will help me get to 200hp and drive like my tuck did with the 5vz Toyota engine.

 

I just finished the main part of my linkage, and its still pretty adjustable.

I didint weld the shifter on i wanted to leave it off tell i get it in the truck. then ill adjust everything and cut it down if i need to.

Its very poseable, im just hoping it will beable to get in the gears.

 

i just went to the DMV to take the lean off the truck, i asked about putting the diesel in. the lady told me i need to get the vin checked, colorado diesel emmissions, then once i go to the DMV i need to make a statment of fact saying what i did to the truck. then they will give me a new title

 

wouldn't need to have another smog test?

 

One of my buddies did shifter setup like in his Ford and it worked great

 

How is your truck coming along?

 

sorry for not posting for awhile its been alittle crazy for me, the truck is slowly comming along but its comming lol here is a few pics of the new axle and motor mounts.

Im going to fort sill for some training so after Dec i wont beable to update the thread tell after march

 

Awesome build!

 

any update?

 

Im still at Fort Sill, Ok for school. I wont be back in washington tell next month and i dont have any new pics. However i bought an AC kit from profitt's crusers, gear mounted Vacuum pump and PS pump.

Anyone know the partnumbers for the brackets for the gear mounted vacuum pump and the powersteering pump that gets mounted behind it?

 

anyone know where i can get a custom designed valve cover cover? i found http://www.abmfab.com/index.html there asking 300 for the design i want. I just duno if this is over priced or not

 

Bump...

This Thread is Awesome!

You will have the BEST Tacoma on the road for sure! How are things coming?

 

Im still at fort sill for training, Dean at Bent Metal has been working on it little by little. He thinks it will be finished this month. Once i get back to washington next week ill post up some new pics.

 

wicked yota!

 

Just got back to washington here is some pics

 

 

it's looking cool...

 

Bad Ass. Now we need a video of it running

 

Its geting there hopfully it'll be done sometime next month :-D lol

 

So I’ve been thinking, the possibility of swapping over an ISB 3.9, 16 valve head onto a 4bt block? And possible benefits?

 

From what i've read on here it'll just add a whole new level of complexity. I'm not even sure it's possible.. Sure it can probably be done with enough money and know how, but the ISB is completely computer controlled, so you'd need to add all the electronic/computer side of it as well. I've read that the 16v head doesn't even flow as well as the 8v head... how much truth there is in that, idk. If it were me, i'd just stick with the 8v head. WHOLE hell of a lot easier and cheaper to tinker with..

 

if you can run a cr head on a 24v with a p-pump, why not on a 4bt? You would have to change your pistons though. I have been debating doing this as well. I have a ve pump though, so it would probably not be worth it for me.

 

16V Head

I had thought of doing this on my p-pumped 4bt But afer doing some research
I think the only benifit would be the neat factor but their is nothing wrong with that
but you would have to change pistons get custom injector lines made
then have the pop pressure on the CR injectors set for the P-Pump.
as far as performance a well worked 2V head will flow better than the 4V
but it's all in what you want.

 

updates??