I got a lot done today, I’m hoping to have it idling by the end of the week.

 

Finished the heater and turbo water line, i just have to finish the upper radiator hose, turbo water drain and turbo oil drain then ill be able to start it up.

 

Getting closer, its almost ready to start!

 

oh man im excited for ya, cant wait to see that video. bounce

 

So it started up tonight, but my phone died and I forgot to being the video camera with me. I really wish I had it though it would have been really entertaining to watch. The engine started right up with out to much trouble the air dog primed the engine, all I did was prime the filters.

However I ran into a huge issue and it would of been epic to have had it recorded. The first time we started the engine I noticed my remote oil filter was leaking at a connection. So we stopped it and I tightened it down. Then after starting it again it started leaking from the other end of the hose so I told my girl friend to stop the engine. I didn’t think she heard me so I yelled at her to stop the engine. Turns out she did hear me the first time and she then showed me the keys lol. For some reason the engine didn’t want to stop, I pulled the fuse to the airdog out of the box and it still didn’t want to die, then after having flash backs to one of our engines running a way and catching on fire in Iraq I ran behind the truck and kinked the fuel line. After about 30 seconds the engine stopped.

What I don’t get is I only have the airdog 2 im not running any other fuel pump, so after the key was turned off the airdog wasn’t pumping. Even if the engine produced enough vacuum in the line to suck the fuel out of the tank without any assistance from a pump, why didn’t my fuel shut off solenoid stop the flow of fuel and kill the engine.

I would appreciate any ideas of why this might of happened.

Thanks
Once I get the oil line fixed ill have a video up.

This scarred the crap out of my girl friend, it was awesome!

 

Once the lines are primed, the IP will continue to pull fuel, even with a dead lift pump (at least the stock ones). You need a fuel shut off solinoid or manual valve.

Cool project!

 

You need a fuel shut off solinoid or manual valve.

you may think i'm crazy but i'd rather have a manual fuel shut-off setup like this one: http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?18880-4BD1T-Into-1999-Suburban&p=175945#post175945

 

Thanks thats what i was thinking, how much travel should be in the fuel solenoid, im thinking it dosnt close all the way

 

Sweet swap love it !

 

Heres my second attampt at starting it, i started it the other day with my girl friend but i had a huge oil leak with the oil pressure lines for the filter.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NTC2_N_UfcM? feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

heres another video, this one is better

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NTC2_N_UfcM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

I dont know why its not embedding the video heres the link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTC2_N_UfcM&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIpM7eCglj8&feature=plcp

 

I have a fuel solenoid, I just had to adjust it more, and it’s working great now.

Its going to be pretty slow this week, I’m waiting on parts.

 

as long as you get it all right, it's what matters...

 

got my intercooler in today, its just a cheap ebay one for $100. Hopefully ill get a custom made someday lol

 

water to-air or air-to-air?

 

It’s a cheap air to air, this allows me to get all the tubing done. Once I come back from afghan next year ill get a custom intercooler made to fit the front of the truck.

 

It's pretty much together, I ordered a 95 Land Cruiser steering box so i'll have a reverse rotation box to clear my oil pan. Then I still need new motor mounts, shifting linkage, throttle linkage and new front springs then it should be on the road.

 

I love the stance of this taco man, good work!

Does your LC steering box have the upgraded 105 sector shaft? If not, I'd recommend getting it if you intend to crawl with this beast. The stock 80 series sector shafts have a bad habit of twisting and breaking.

 

I doubt it, its a junk yard box. i just got an email from the yard canceling my order.... but luckily i found another one on eBay lol. This one is out of a wrecked cruiser so im willing to be its not upgraded, although I’m goggling it now. Maybe i can swap out the shaft or something.

 

that would be awesome, so its a toyota part and not really after market? is there anyway to tell if it already has the new shaft?

 

I'm not 100% sure how to tell if it's a new shaft, as I've got a 60 series so the majority of my knowledge is focused on 1990 and older Land Cruisers.

I'll do some searching and find out for you. In either case, the 80 steering box, with the upgraded sector shaft, is bulletproof. I've never seen one break, nor a 60 series box for that matter.

 

I'm really interested to see how that turbo set up is going to perform. Lots of guys are swapping those onto 6bt's but I believe yours is the first 4bt I've seen with one. Nice work.

 

It's going to be intresting, right now its programmed for the 6bt so the vains arnt closed as much as i want them to be. Once i get it on the road im going to play with the programing, right now you can feel the differnce in the idle when you hit the switch from auto to manual. it isnt much but you can tell.

 

Picked up my Clutch Master Cylinder adapter and T-case shifter and center plate.

The Clutch Master Cylinder adapter was made by a local machine shop. The T-case plate was made by unorthodox customs.

 

I’m pretty stoked I just received my hydro booster from www.custompowerbrake.com, $359 plus shipping. Comes with adapter for a direct bolt on replacement for the Toyota vacuum booster. He said he can make them for a lot of different makes and can position them at an angle or different position. Here’s a picture of mine upside down in my 2002 Tacoma, if I have it right ride up it hits my injection pump.

 

I'll be referring to this thread a bunch... I'll be putting a 4bt in a tundra... awesome build and congrats bud!!! Thanks for your service sir!!

 

Thanks, I would go bigger then a 4BT for a Tundra. My 4BT fits really well in my Tacoma, a 6BT should fit in a Tundra.
I getting ready to head over to Afghanistan for 9 months so the truck is going to be sitting until I get back. Here’s another picture of my hydro booster with a new master cylinder. My master cylinder is from a P30 van, with disc/disc brakes. It should stop my Tacoma with ease.

I’m hoping I’ll be able to finish my clutch master cylinder, adding another return line to my power steering pump and making my linkage for my shifters before I head out.

Heres the link to master cylinder in case anyone wants one.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Chevrolet&model=P30&vi=1059454&ck=Search_01292_1059454_2622&pt=01292&ppt=C0066

 

Thanks, I would go bigger then a 4BT for a Tundra. My 4BT fits really well in my Tacoma, a 6BT should fit in a Tundra.
I getting ready to head over to Afghanistan for 9 months so the truck is going to be sitting until I get back. Here’s another picture of my hydro booster with a new master cylinder. My master cylinder is from a P30 van, with disc/disc brakes. It should stop my Tacoma with ease.

I’m hoping I’ll be able to finish my clutch master cylinder, adding another return line to my power steering pump and making my linkage for my shifters before I head out.

Heres the link to master cylinder in case anyone wants one.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Chevrolet&model=P30&vi=1059454&ck=Search_01292_1059454_2622&pt=01292&ppt=C0066

Good luck and stay safe on your deployment!

:beer: