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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

First off thanks to everyone posting about their builds. They have been a great help and inspiration for myself. This is my second build with the same motor, a p pumped 4bt. The first truck was a 97 f-150 2wd with a NV4500. Worked really good until my kids started to grow and the extended cab seating got to small.

So I got a 2003 dodge 1500 with 4x4 and a quad cab with a blown 4.7 with a auto tranny. Out came the power train and I put in a 29 tooth input spline in the NV241 for the G56 i got from a reman shop.

I downloaded a tech manual for $5 and found the wiring for the auto tranny to get my starting circuit and hooked it up to the clutch pedal switch from a Southbend clutch kit that included the G56 flywheel, clutch and hydraulic stuff. (sweet kit) I went to the junk yard in Naniamo BC and picked up a clutch pedal, the insulation kit for the hood, ac lines, and intercooler piping.

The engine fit in the truck very well. I used the stock mounts fitted to my previous side plates on the cummins. I cut the oil pan to fit around the front diff loosing about 3/4 of a litre of oil capacity. The gearshifter fit in the factory hole and the 4x4 lever, non electric, was barely within the adjustment but it appears to shift the T case fine. I had Keith Neri here in Powell River cut and extend the driveshafts, wicked good job, the guy is a an amazing machinist.

I used a 94 intercooler, the stock rad, and the condensor from a 2003. The ac is a 94 pump with the oem dodge mount machined down to fit inside the frame rails. i had to trim a few items to get it to fit but its in there. The rear transmission mount is from the oem tranny, not sure what it is, 45F ish?? but it bolted up the the G56 like it was suppose to be there and i modded the oem auto crossmember to fit it in its location.

The truck runs BUT I have no dash gauges. AHHHH. This is what I have done so far. Made the stock 4.7 tach ring fit on the front of the crank and put the cam sensor on the fan pulley. Extended the wiring but my dash refuses to work. I used the 4.7 oil pressure sensor and heat sensor. I have read everything I could on this site and others to get the dash working. I tried the relay trick mentioned somewhere without success. I replaced the cam sensor and tach sensor with known good ones. i am at a loss right now what to do next other than call JD jeep on Monday as he has adapters to get the dashes working on newer jeeps like my gen 3 1500. Any help would be welcome and yes I am getting pics up asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
DSC02460.jpg

I used Hyra boost brakes

DSC02461.jpg

The coolant tank is from my 97 f-150, the windshield washer tank is the oem dodge on a angle to allow for the cold air intake from a 2003 dodge 2500 for a cummins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Above you can see the silver tube, that is the exhaust from the Wbasto heater TSL 17. I have two 950 CCA batteries in the aux fuel tank in the box, not worried about a 1.5amp draw to run the heater. Without it at -40 it will not start. I also use 0w-40 year round, as it flows at -40. I know 15w-40 is recommended but I like to know my oil is flowing not a brick in the crankcase. Plus it gets better milage with the thinner oil!!!

the second photo is the right side of the engine. People are worried about the 1500 frame not handling a diesel. I would put a 6bt in this frame compared to my f-150.

My engine has 50hp injectors and the #10 fuel plate. I get about 33 mpg in the summer, about 27 us gallons or 8.5 litrs per 100km. I laugh at the new trucks claims of huge mpg numbers as my friends are not even close to their claims. My 33 mpg is in my f-150 at 70mph with some city driving thrown in. When I went to get the dodge I pulled the dodge home on a trailer through from Kamloops to Powell River and got 21.7 imperial mpg that included huge uphills. Love this engine !!!

Anyway any thoughts on getting my dash to work?
 

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Since I am non computer I wouldn't know. But a best guess is one of the sensors from the gas engine you are no longer using is interfaced with the gauge cluster. Have seen this same issue happen on other makes and that what the problem was. Hopefully some of the guys who are more computer savy will come to the rescue. Might look at the wiring diagram of the instrument cluster and see where all the come from. Sort of bet it's connected to the engine cpu which is no longer functional.

By the way, you can keep the -40. It was in the teens here this week and that is as cold as I care to be. Good luck on your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Char1355. I have made sure i have the 5 volts at both the cam sensor and the cranks sensor. I left all the sensors hooked up I could, like throttle position, manifold pressure, etc. I found in my service manual that if you push in the trip reset button when turning on the key it puts the cluster into a test mode, all the gauges worked fine. I noticed with other users that used a 3rd gen dodge they used the auto tranny and got things to work, will have to look into that or find a powertrain computer from a std tranny.

Thankfully I live on the west coast where it barely leaves the 30's F in the winter, I have been riding my Tw200 to work year round, but I would like to move back to Alberta where I have lived for 30+ years and it get to -40. Crazy I know but better work $$ there.
 

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Nice work mxman! I am really impressed with the fuel economy you are getting. What size tires do you have and what final drive ratios are you running?

You could be on to something with the missing transmission sensors not sending some sort of signal that the ECU is looking for. My Ford gauges worked as soon as I connected the sensors from the gas engine to the ECU. But I had to hard-wire the pins on the transmission harness to indicate a neutral condition all the time. This is so it would go into 4L. I used a diagnostic tool that connects to the OBD2 port and runs on a laptop to interrogate the ECU and see what signals it has and does not have. If you can buy or borrow one of these it could give you some valuable clues.

Best,

CR
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had photos of my F-150 build but my computer died with them on the hard drive and I already have the engine of the F-150.

The ratio was 2.79(i think, it is the stock mustang ratio from the early 90's) 225/75-16 tires. I was running 1500 rpm at 62mph (100km/h) and 1625 at 70 mph (110km/h) with the 97-f-150. I would have about 5lbs to 8lbs of boost at hwy speeds. This dodge, I have not driven it yet, has 3.21 ratios and should run about 125 rpm higher at hwy speeds with the 245/75-17 tires I have for it.

Thanks CR I will try to figure that out while the supercross is on Tv in the am. Thanks for the info!



The
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So have my dash working after speaking with Shawn at JD Jeep, nice guy, and he kindly pointed out that I might have my crankshaft tone ring on backwards. And I did. So what I have is a completely unhooked auto transmission with the NGC computer (four plugin E box with no separate computer for the auto transmission).

To get reverse lights get the plugin at the tranny control module (plug in on the tranny with 23 wires) and you want 1, 12 volt power, to be hooked up to the back up light on the manual tranny, then return to the 6 terminal in the same harness. Your back up lights will work. Because there is a special male connector on the G56 reverse light switch I robbed a 2 terminal from a 02 sensor plugin I was not going to use and trimmed plastic off it to fit in the back up switch with some silicone to seal it up.

To make the clutch switch work I tied into number 4 terminal of the same harness as above and routed it through the clutch switch to a good ground.

Then as above I made a bracket to hold the tone ring from the crank on the 4.7 to the crank of the cummins along with the cam tone ring on the idler pulley above the crankshaft. The cam ring runs at a huge speed difference but my dash works.

Hope this helps everyone, thanks again to Shawn at Jd Jeep conversions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
On the NGC controlled dodges I found out there is a function that will shut down the engine control part of the computer. I had to take out the ASD relay in power distribution box under the hood. It was killing my volt meter gauge, all good now as it still starts. Thanks everyone! Just a couple things left to address, my Brake and ABS lights are on, my fuel gauge does not read and a couple of exhaust hangers to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No I wanted it to look factory inside and I am happy to report they all work now.

My fuel gauge issues was my fault as i did not put the assembly in the tank properly, the float was hitting on the side of the tank.

The temp gauge is a bit of a issue as i have a adapter to go from 3/8 to 1/2 in the block but there is to much dead water under it and it does not respond to the change in engine temp very fast. So i am tapping the treads deeper into the adapter and trying to get it flush with the block to get the sensor to be deeper in the block.

Through a bunch of calls I found out my tag (3.21) on the diff was not right, i have a 3.55 ratio front and back. There is no 3.21 in the 8" IFS the 1500 runs. So I ordered 34" tires to compensate. It should work out very well.

Km/h F-150 W/28" tires and 2.74 ratio 1500 w/ 34" tires and 3.55

100 (62.6mph) 1500 RPM 1600 RPM
110 (70 mph) 1650 RPM 1760 RPM
120 (78 mph) 1800 RPM 1920 RPM

The extra RPM will be nice pulling the holiday trailer and the truck is heavier. I am gong to miss the fuel millage with the lighter 2wd f-150 but I sure like having a 4x4 again. The ford loved open stretches of prairie at 120, it just purred at 1800, and passed a lot of fuel stations!!!

Thanks again to everyone for posting pic and info on this site
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have had the engine in the truck for a year now, and it has been very good. The only mod so far was the Tech Torq over flow valve that bumped up the fuel pressure. Worth the $50. The engine ran crisper and quieter and from what I see a little better mpg.

I have read a few guys twin turbo setups and i am going to go that route as well. I have a hx35w that i will use as the bottom turbo with my hx30w as the top. I will also add head studs and a port job. My goal is to reduce the boost pressure, make the engine more efficient. I should be starting it in two weeks.

Cheers and thanks for reading.
 
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