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The 97-98s with 5.4 came with the E4OD/4R100 so they should fit the tunnel nicely (same body style through 03). I would even look at the 5R110, much better transmission.
 

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Your governor is an RSV type which isn't a problem but you need to understand how it reacts. Most road engines would have a RQV type. With the RSV, the governor tries to maintain engine speed. Sort of like having the cruise control on. When you hit an incline needing more fuel it will automatically add more instead of you having to mash the accelerator harder. That governor style was standard on most industrial engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Here's what i figured out for a tps throttle arrangement. On the bottom of the intake horn is the bracket where the factory throttle cable clips in.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Success----maybe....

Got this rig running finally. When i first tried to drive it it wouldn't move, so i dropped the tranny and found a torn pump gasket, which explains why i had only 12 psi of line press. I fixed the gasket and installed a transgo shift kit. Last eve i drove it for the first. It ran and shifted decent, but i went to back up a long distance and it started jerking and shuttering in reverse-still went forward. Now this morning reverse works, but still a little iffy. I was working on my trans tuning and test driving it down the road less than a mile; but the last round when i came back to the shop and parked it, when i tried to leave it wouldn't go fore nor aft. Fluid looks high on the stick but last eve it just kept taking more & more till it showed right on the stick. It did seem that toward the end of my testing today it was acting a little mushy.

As far as my turbo and nozzle set up, it seems to work fine. At WOT it'll boost 25+/- and it spools well. It is a little hazy, but big deal. I can hold the hammer down and the egt's don't get above 1100, at least in the short runs i was doing. I does have an annoying surge/flutter/lope under load at idle; like a a stop in drive. Any help on how to get rid of this would be much appreciated.
 

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I'm no transmission specialist, but what torque converter are you running? It should have a stall speed somewhere around 1400 RPM for a Cummins. Do you have a temp gauge for the transmission? I suspect that transmission is telling you it doesn't like the torque it's getting from the engine. I had read that the shudder effect is caused by the torque converter bouncing in and out of lock up. Do you have an electronic controller? We seldom see many automatics matched to the Cummins except the Dodge or Allison. We've had a few guys do the GM 4L80e but not a lot of Fords.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The torque converter is a 1600-1800 stall. I never was fully satisfied with the trans rebuild, because being it was a performance rebuild kit, it changed the clutch count and so the cluch packs had more play than i liked but i didn't really know how to remedy it. I need to check actual line pressure before i condemn the whole tranny. I did have the line pressure maxed out with my tuning and the truck still wasn't moving, so it seems like a pressure issue. How hard would it be to put a 4r100 in the rig? Can i easily get a torque converter that would work?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It's gone. I did a line pressure test and it was 60 psi (supposed to be 80-100). Did a stall test and it had very little resistance. Pulled the drain plug and there literally shards hanging on the plug.
 

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It's gone. I did a line pressure test and it was 60 psi (supposed to be 80-100). Did a stall test and it had very little resistance. Pulled the drain plug and there literally shards hanging on the plug.
DOA.... i'd definitely go with a 4r100 if you want to spend the change on controller etc. or you could go 47RH which is pretty simple to build and no adapter required.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah i think i'm gonna do the 4r100. The roller thrust bearing inside the planetary failed, in this tranny, and fed debris into the planetary gears and destroyed them. Also a forward clutch was completely smoked, and i only put about five miles on this thing!
 

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The 4R100 is a good transmission. Which version of the transmission do you plan to use? The only stock transmission adapter for the Cummins would have been SB Ford and it has to be modified to use an automatic transmission. You will want the torque converter from a diesel model. May or may not require a custom flex plate. Destroked makes an engine adapter plate for the 4R100 diesel model that came behind the 7.3. They also have a custom flex plate to go with it. Adapter is $795 and flex plate is $625 plus you'll need a Ford 6.0 diesel stater which isn't big money. Of course you'll also need an outboard controller.
 

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Which one to choose

4r100- not sure what it will cost- if you buy a used one that is drivable i'm gonna guess a good buy would be $800
Plut 1300 in adapters and 800 in controller plus the new starter required you are at about $4000

47RH- core 500
Rebuild 500 (unless you buy one of the overpriced kits)
TC- 500 (low stall)
5.9 cummins adapter $100
optional (controller for OD and LU instead of toggle switches-- don't do pressure switches...) $260
cummins starter $100

So even if i underestimated a bit $2000-2500 you are on the road with a very good transmission.

Just food for thought, but the 4R100 is a great transmission for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hey guys, I've got an update. I did install a 4R100 (a transmission much more suited for the job). I bought one that was from a Lightning edition F150 because they are heavier than the other 4R100's that they installed in F150--tougher planetary and thrust bearings. They only come in two wheel drive so i put a different tail housing and output shaft which requires total tear down. Everything in the trans looked good except one clutch was a little hot looking so i stacked a new one in while i had it apart. I also installed a Transgo Tugger shift kit and B&M deep trans pan for added durability.

The trans swap required longer torsion bars (spring code 7 out of an F250 non SD), a new cross member, and driveline modifications.

The truck ran pretty decent when it was finished, but it still smoked like, and the trans didn't shift as snappy as i wanted. I calibrated the speedo with a GPS and it topped out at about 94 MPH, so that at least wasn't to bad. After buttoning up a few more last minuet details and test running it for about 150 miles my buddy was satisfied to take it the 400 miles home. He ran great till about half way home when the truck died, so he pulled off and tried to restart it, it started. He checked under the hood and here a plug on the injection pump had rattled out and all his oil was spread over the last how ever many miles! Since he wasn't far from the place he bought his engine from he got towed there and the got him on the road again.

There didn't seem to be any abnormal noises due to low oil so he ran it for a few weeks, until he had another buddy check it out. He had his IP rebuilt by a shop that, IMHO, didn't know squat about performance and what he, in this special application, needed. They said his pump was set for an 80 HP engine and set it for what a 120 HP would need, but they couldn't figure how to get more delivery :rolleyes:. It's only a 9.5mm pump, so of course delivery's limited! As for what the low oil pressure caused, nothing major, just deep scoring in cylinder 4---the engine is getting overhaul number two. Thankfully this is no longer my project!

What would be a good performance cam for this rig?


P1050587.jpg
 

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The 4R100 is a good transmission. It came behind diesels. Your torque converter stall speed sounds a bit high. Maybe one of our other Ford guys can help. I believe member Camccardell is using a E4OD which was the forerunner of the 4R100. Seem like some have run around 1200 RPM but that's a bit tight. Seems like 1400 RPM is more desirable on the Cummins. These engines hit full torque in the 1700-1800 RPM range.
 
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