[JimAg]

I've run into a slight snag on the drivers side motor mount. After some more positioning, bolting the transmission to the engine, and raising the rear mount with a couple hockey pucks (you use what you can get here in the great white north), I've crowded out my starter and i think the starter might hit the mechanical fuel pump and primer button. I think the course of action will be to cut the motor mount lug off the top of the front diff on that side and using the bread truck motor mount on the drivers side more toward the front of the engine with a ford liquid filled mount like we see used quite often on many of the 4bt builds.

Also, will the durangos in tank supply pump provide enought pressure and flow for a 7100 pump? When i hot wired it to pump out the fuel tank, it emptied 15 gallons in about 10 minutes. Just not sure what kind of pressure it has or i need.

Any comments on having a mid block mount on the right side and a front mount on the left side? As I've rehearsed it in my mind it seems like it should work, but looking for critique.

With my 2002 Dakota with the P-pump 4BT( 02 Dakota 4x4 4BT 45RFE) I kept the in-tank fuel pump and omitted the mechanical supply pump from the engine. The in-tank pump is more than sufficient to supply pressure and volume for the P-pump on your Cummins. Also the wiring, computer, etc. worked without any modification.

Jim

 

[gitchyboy]

Today was devoted to motor mounts. RH Mount complete.

LH Mount nearing completion, need to paint, then complete.

The engine is now sitting completely on its own mounts. With the sway bar lowered, the oil pan will need very little modification to clear the differential. I am planning on a front sump arrangement. I am not sure if I will trim the aluminum fins on the diff, or shape the oil pan slightly or both.

 

[jhyneman]

Lookin good. When I did the Dakota I used the front motor mount locations also, and hung the differential from the mid mounts also. I also slid the engine under the cowl to clear an intercooler. Keep up the hard work


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[gitchyboy]

Lookin good. When I did the Dakota I used the front motor mount locations also, and hung the differential from the mid mounts also.

This model has a brace that goes from the top of the diff to the engine I am assuming to take out sway or wobble of the diff, How much does the diff move, should i consider re-bracing? I would have to anchor it to somewhere near the starter. Not impossible, just a pain. Your thoughts?

 

[jhyneman]

That brace is very important. If you ever intend on using the 4x4 the differential will want to rotate and that differential is cast aluminum and will crack very easily.


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[jhyneman]

I will see if I can dig up some old pictures


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[mystycal]

On my 02 ram thread, I used the stock engine mounts for my 4bt, I kept the stock driver side and I ended up stupidly trashing my passenger side mount. I also plan to somehow make a mount on the trans to the diff, so its all pretty solid. Oh and the replacement engine mount/bushings, for me was around 130 bucks! But I had to, mine are junk, replacements are made of steel, so a bit more heavy duty was nice.

 

[gitchyboy]

That brace is very important. If you ever intend on using the 4x4 the differential will want to rotate and that differential is cast aluminum and will crack very easily.

Thanks for the advice, I assumed I should but needed that practical advice, that side is very tight with the dodge/cummins adapter and starter. Once I have removed the engine again I will make some kind of strap to something, just not sure what so far.

 

[gitchyboy]

On my 02 ram thread, I used the stock engine mounts for my 4bt, I kept the stock driver side and I ended up stupidly trashing my passenger side mount. I also plan to somehow make a mount on the trans to the diff, so its all pretty solid. Oh and the replacement engine mount/bushings, for me was around 130 bucks! But I had to, mine are junk, replacements are made of steel, so a bit more heavy duty was nice.

I did see your mounts on your build thread a few days ago, got some ideas from it, thanks.

 

[gitchyboy]

After a little heating and flattening, I was able to get the oil pan in without any cutting, this is the front view.

I heated the radius of the pan near the back and lightly tapped it, flattening it about a quarter inch, this is the view down the left hand side from the front.

I will still have to do a small amount of additional flattening, the pan appears to be slightly engaging two of the differential fins, I will grind these down as much as I dare when the engine is out.

I have two oil pickups, one a 4bt rear sump pickup and a 6bt rear sump pickup, I plan to do some cutting and welding and make a front sump pickup. If that fails I will have to purchase a front sump cummins oil pickup.

 

[gitchyboy]

The heating on the oil pan has lifted the paint coating on the inside of the oil pan, do I need to repaint or just sand off around the burnt area for flaking, any thoughts?

 

[edpruss]

It looks like you have your engine mount situation solved.

Neoprene grader snow plow blade material around here comes one inch thick by four inches by length, makes good engine and trans mount mat'l.

Ed

 

[gitchyboy]

I decided to use the rear sump pickup from a 5.9 dodge, I had to shorten its length, re-attach a side brace and shorten its drop tube by about 1/2" to keep it from touching the bottom of the pan.

I continued heating and flattening the oil pan, I now have about 1/2" clearance to the differential fins in most places.

Next step, I need to begin modifying the timing case cover to accept the hemi camshaft tone ring and the cam position sensor. Also I need to manufacture a bracket to hold the crank sensor to the cummins flywheel.

 

[gitchyboy]

Couple different views of the Crank Position Sensor mounted at the lower left side of engine. More or less a copy of JimAg and mystical crank sensor setup.

 

[JimAg]

Couple different views of the Crank Position Sensor mounted at the lower right side of engine. More or less a copy of JimAg and mystical crank sensor setup.

View attachment 80833
View attachment 80841

I like your copy. I like your work.
Jim

 

[gitchyboy]

Cam Tone Ring

Installed on the injector pump gear, turns the same direction as the crank just like the hemi. I welded a 1-1/4" washer on the front of the tone ring and a 3/4" behind the first washer. I drilled one small hole to the side of center and used a M8 bolt to keep the tone ring aligned. I believe the threaded hole in the injector gear is for pulling the gear off the injector pump.

 

[gitchyboy]

Airbox Help

I would prefer to use the factory airbox, I am just too close to the dodge/cummins alternator. I have the alternator in the furthest up position but it still won't clear.

There is not a lot of room in that corner. Has anyone cut and plastic welded their airbox? any other ideas? any suggestions on aftermarket air cleaners?

 

[gitchyboy]

Digital PRNDL Gear Indicator - Minor Breakthrough!

The story is far from over, but I have spent 3 days off and on trying understand the circuitry and hardware in the 545RFE to get a Neutral or Park signal to the PCM ECM to allow for the start circuit to fire. Today we were successful in grounding combinations of those wires in the harness to tell the ECM which gear we were in.

In a 545 RFE there are 5 electrical contacts attached to the valve body shift assembly that in specific grounding combinations provide the PRND21 signal to the PCM and move the gear indicator light.

P 1-2-5
R 2
N 1-2-3
D 3-4

This is what I am going to attempt. I am going to have a DPDT relay that when NC, it will ground 3 - 4 and produce a Drive signal. When that solenoid is grounded by the 47RH Park/Neutral/Reverse Switch, it will throw the solendoid to allow one of the 3 other individual SPST solenoids to fire, depending on which ground (Park/Reverse/Neutral) is grounded.

I will need to use diodes to keep the ground from the shared terminals from backfeeding and grounding unwanted terminals. I am going to contact a friend from Minnesota who is an electronics guy and see if he might be able to mock this up on a circuit board and save me a big clunky relay and wire mess.

Let me know your thoughts. Has anyone had success doing this before?

 

[gitchyboy]

Radiator Rough Fit

I placed the radiator and condensor rads, pretty clean fit, no issues for clearance. I will need to find an electric push fan and front mount the cooling fan. The top radiator hose fitting is angled away from the top coolant port on the engine. Does anyone have a resource for rad hoses other than a treasure hunt to the auto store?

 

[gitchyboy]

I had to modify my original shift translator design. The P N R switch on the 47RH only has two signals, not three. It grounds the center terminal when in either park or neutral, and it connects the two outer terminals for reverse. I have been able to modify my switch box and I can get R and D to display on the digital display, I have not been successful in getting either a P or N to appear, however transfer case will shift normally, "scv drivetrain" light is now out.