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Sounds great. Looks like you got a bit of a crack in your windshield.
:lol: I was going to say the same thing.

Looks great Casey!
 

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Discussion Starter · #342 · (Edited)
Thanks Johnny. I saw the drive around videos in your thread and I told myself I need a few of those.

I can't drive anywhere without taking rocks to the windshield. I think I've had 5 (windshields, not rocks) on this vehicle. I also have a crack on my car windshield right now as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
In other news I played with my transfer case controls for the first time the other day. Electronic shift controls behave as they are supposed to even with out the engine in place. I can shift on the fly to 4hi lock and back properly. When I shifted it to 4lo and put it in drive, I had to really mash the brake to keep this thing from power crawling. This thing is going to be a beast in low range. Now I just need to check out if the trans controller is getting the low range signal from the shift control module to set the correct shift points. I have not programmed that part of my controller yet either. I'll have to see how well it reads the vss at low speeds to correctly shift. Most of the time I just shift manually in 4lo anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
Spent today doing a couple of things on the punch list. First up was to rebrace the A/C compressor bracket. I had a plan on this from the very onset, but built all the original brackets without any welding. The original bracket has held up fine without any issues, but been wanting to add this for piece of mind. I started with some 4" x 1/4" bar stock. I should have used 3/8", the original tensioner bracket is 3/8" but I had already ordered this piece of bar stock before I caught the error. I used the original tensioner mount as a template. The new bracket is the same shape and has the same hole pattern, its just shy of 3" longer towards the passenger side.



The front of the original bracket is in the same plane as the face of the tensioner mount. I pulled the compressor off and bolted both pieces up to check the fit. I wanted to leave the new tensioner bracket a bit shorter to get a good fillet weld. Instead I just back beveled the joint and clean and prepped everything to tack up.



After pulling both battery leads, I tacked it in place, then unbolted it and welded it out. Since it was a straight outside fillet, I could grind down my apprentice grade welds and make it look pretty. Here is the bracket cleaned up, painted and bolted in place.



Before bolting everything else up, I mostly finished up on the intake box. I cleaned up the area where the old MAF tube joined in and where I massaged a new hole to fit the new intake tube. I used a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum and made a template to fit over the ragged hole in the side of the airbox. I cut a new 3"+ hole in the aluminum plate where the air intake tube routed through.



I have all my A/C ends bolted on where they go and have a plan for the hose routing. Hopefully I'll get a chance soon to go get some quotes on an A/C shop fabbing my hoses and charging the system up.
 

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I see you too have crazies driving around. The gold car almost tags the dumbarse doing a u turn rom the right lane. Almost looks like he didnt have brake lights or didnt use them. How do you like the turbo? Does it spool quick enough? Nice neighborhood..
 

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
Yes, that car was a real dumbass. The turbo spools fine. I haven't pushed the fuel yet. No gauges yet. I did test the boost the other day with a temporary test gauge and it's only 16 psi. No smoke at all, just right on tip in from idle I can see a little puff sometimes. I am still running through a stock 2.5" exhaust as well. Once I resolve that and start some real tuning we will see what it can do. Drives just fine like it is now though, but it stops pulling about 2300 RPM. Likely a combination of issues with all of the above. Just trying to make time and money to address them one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
What compressor are you running? Does the bottom just have 1 bolt holding it?
Factory A/C compressor. Yes, its a 3 bolt pattern. This bracket should be adaptable to any A/C compressor, just drill the holes in the right spot. I need to find my notes on the distance from the centerline of the pulley to the front of the block face. You will need an alternator mount which pivots on the lower end to make this whole setup a universal bracket set.

Pics of my setup





Standoffs are just 3/8" schedule 80 pipe. Perfect fit for a 10mm bolt.

 

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Discussion Starter · #353 ·
Turned 10,000 miles on the swap this week. Not much new progress to report. Stil have a lot of minor issues i want to work on. Got it offroad for the first time a few weekends ago.




Engine ran hot without a fan. I have since got a mechanical fan figured out and installed. The electronic traction contro does not kick in with the 4bt. I wil need some ECU work to figure this one out. I have not programmed the second map in my trans controller for low range operation. The VSS is in the tailshaft of the transfer case. I shifted manually in 1st and 2nd which covers most of my low range needs.

Next up is getting gauges installed so I can do a little tuning and order stuff for the drive by wire throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #355 ·
Finally got some time to work on the truck this weekend again and got my boost gauge installed. I went with the glowshift because its a multi gauge boost and EGT to save some space. I'm not crazy about the styling of the gauge but it will be out of site unless I'm tuning.

Started with the boost sensor. Threaded it into the intake manifold, ran the wiring up and across the firewall.


Installed the EGT sensor into the exhaust manifold. I already tapped the manifold before I installed the engine so all I had to do was unthread the plug and install the sensor. While I was at it I added a stiffener under the heat shield to keep it from vibrating at certain frequencies. I notched the heatshield where the sensor pokes through. If you notice I also have a tap for drive pressure if I ever want to check it.


Ran both wires with loom over to the grommet at the passenger firewall corner and through into the dash.


One of the goals of the truck was to keep a factory appearance. I made the decision that I did not want a gauge pillar pod or gauges on the dash. I know gauges are nice to look at and track, but I don't want to have to drive watching gauges. With a properly tuned vehicle, you should just be able to hop in it and drive it and not need a 15 minute instructional video on how to shift, which toggle switches to hit and which gauges to monitor to make sure you don't burn it up. As such, I chose to mount the gauge in the glove box. It gives me easy access when I want to make tuning changes, and is tucked out of sight when I don't really need it. I tapped power and ground from the HVAC cluster under the radio.
 

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Nice work. I just read the whole thread. I'm a trans tech and been a state certified master tech for 25 years. Seeing the stock 4l60e with the stock 5 banger converter made me laugh. That little thing probably stalls at 2500 and had a tcc clutch that's tiny. The right shift kit, pressure reg setup will live for bit, but any engine with 400 ft lbs of twist at 1600 rpm is going to be tough on a <4l80/46RX/4R100 etc. Nonetheless nice work,
 

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i justed started thinking about doing a swap like this but for some reason cant see most of the pictures and was wondering if you have a blog or something where i can see these pictures
This is a good site Casey made which is helpful. https: / / sites.google.com / site / h3diesel / home

Hey Casey, did you manage to get better than 19 mpg? How's the tuning coming along?
 

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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
I need to work and get some updates done on that site. I put much more of the progress updates on this forum here.

Still running about 19 mpg, a few tanks over 20. It will likely stay there until I regear. I do have plans for an intercooler in the near future.
 
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