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Discussion Starter · #381 ·
For the isolation mount, I first had tried and assembly with a stack of generic urethane disks. My original foot was bolted to the part of the novak flange specifically made for that purpose but there were two things I didn't like about it. First it interfered with the lower two bolts so the transfer case was only held on with four bolts to the adapter. Second, I didn't like how secure the through bolt ended up and because of the bolt placement, made it very difficult to access. So I decided to just pour a monoblock urethane mount.

I made a mold out of wood and mounted the bolt assemblies in it. The stack from inner to outer is bolt, fender washer, nut, fender washer, flange, nut. The innermost fender washer is clamped into place by the nut which will help secure anything from rotating during tightening, and secondly the fender washer will give a nice big surface area to spread any tension force through the mount. In addition, the way this is stacked, when the mount is bolted to the flange, the end nut will be clamping against the fender washer and nut resulting in only bolt tension and no preload tension trying to pull the bolt out of the mount just due to being bolted in.

Name:  c0NHmBt.jpg Views: 106 Size:  1.36 MB

Name:  aa4rHCo.jpg Views: 106 Size:  1.30 MB

Name:  t8l4lYT.jpg Views: 107 Size:  770.9 KB

Name:  7b9HzQy.jpg Views: 103 Size:  1.85 MB


And here is everything bolted up

Name:  bhcbkDh.jpg Views: 103 Size:  1.07 MB

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This moved the bolts slightly forward in the crossmember so i had to extended the slots forward about a half inch.

Name:  khShm0H.jpg Views: 104 Size:  981.6 KB


Overall this made a clean setup. I'll report back with some results once some miles get logged.
 

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For the isolation mount, I first had tried and assembly with a stack of generic urethane disks. My original foot was bolted to the part of the novak flange specifically made for that purpose but there were two things I didn't like about it. First it interfered with the lower two bolts so the transfer case was only held on with four bolts to the adapter. Second, I didn't like how secure the through bolt ended up and because of the bolt placement, made it very difficult to access. So I decided to just pour a monoblock urethane mount.

I made a mold out of wood and mounted the bolt assemblies in it. The stack from inner to outer is bolt, fender washer, nut, fender washer, flange, nut. The innermost fender washer is clamped into place by the nut which will help secure anything from rotating during tightening, and secondly the fender washer will give a nice big surface area to spread any tension force through the mount. In addition, the way this is stacked, when the mount is bolted to the flange, the end nut will be clamping against the fender washer and nut resulting in only bolt tension and no preload tension trying to pull the bolt out of the mount just due to being bolted in.

Name:  c0NHmBt.jpg Views: 106 Size:  1.36 MB

Name:  aa4rHCo.jpg Views: 106 Size:  1.30 MB

Name:  t8l4lYT.jpg Views: 107 Size:  770.9 KB

Name:  7b9HzQy.jpg Views: 103 Size:  1.85 MB


And here is everything bolted up

Name:  bhcbkDh.jpg Views: 103 Size:  1.07 MB

Name:  PHCV1d3.jpg Views: 99 Size:  859.4 KB


This moved the bolts slightly forward in the crossmember so i had to extended the slots forward about a half inch.

Name:  khShm0H.jpg Views: 104 Size:  981.6 KB


Overall this made a clean setup. I'll report back with some results once some miles get logged.
Nice, however, there is nothing mechanically holding the mount together internally or externally, if it should split horizontally end to end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #384 ·
No. Didn't have to do anything with the crank sensor programming. It does need to be aligned decently accurate and the air gap should be about a credit card thickness.
 

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im in the middle of a 4bt into an 08 escalade with the 6l80e, i cant get it to crank with the key, my tack wont work, my prndl wont work and my reverse lights dont work, if i hook up the canbus lines then i get my prndl and reverse lights but no crank from the key, any pointers would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #387 ·
You need to start with your vehicle specific schematic. What all is hardwired into the start circuit. In the case of my Hummer, the original 4L60 had a quadrant in the shift arm to indicate gear and there was a hard wired park/neutral switch in the start circuit. Swapping to the 6 required a relay to replace this switch as there is no isolated switch directly in the 6.

For most gm vehicles I think the start contact on the key cylinder goes to an input to the bcm. The bcm has final say to pull in the start circuit after theft detection etc. You will need to troubleshoot it to find out which part of the start circuit is not made.

If you do not have full schematics on your chassis, stop now and go find/pay for them. You will absolutely need them to get integrated.
 
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