[camccardell]

Been doing a lot of reading.
Putting a 4bt in a 95 f150.
I want to get the engine up to 200hp and still be a daily driver. No towing, other than the ocasional load of lumber for some construction on my house (it should fit in the bed) or the waverunners.

So I am under the impression that I need a 3200 governor spring?
60lb springs?
Fuel pin?

I guess those are minimum requirements for a starting point? Tell me if I am wrong here.

So what about injectors or a bigger turbo?

I am going to put on an intercooler from a 99 superduty.

I only want to run 1 turbo (at least till I get addicted to breaking parts)
I would like little to no smoke, as this will be a driver / ocasional trail rig.

Going for enough hp to get out of my own way, but definetly want to maximize mpgs as one way trip to work is over 100 miles.

Truck is sitting on 35" bfgs and I would like to keep the E4od ( I know about the expense and wiring headache involved with that) But I have a zf5 on standby if all else fails.

 

[khaoskustoms]

HE341 turbo, 40hp injectors and some good tuning will get you to 200hp. That was my first setup, I liked it alot.

 

[carcrafter22]

Like khaoskustoms said the he341 is a great budget turbo for these engines since they 5.9L cummins guys get rid of them cheap not to mention holset makes a great quality turbo. I'd drop in the 3200 spring and valve springs just to give you a slightly broader rpm range and add a fuel pin to help spool the turbo. You're going to want more fuel to help spool the turbo properly otherwise it will just be slower to spool and a good set of 60hp -75hp injectors (I know crewcab59 sells good ones) will make a big difference.

I've seen several guys run the combo above make 200-225rear wheel hp and around 500tq.

 

[camccardell]

fuel pin the only way to make the pump flow more fuel?

Any need for fire rings or head studs?

I am assuming the he341 is a stock 5.9 turbo? From what years?

Can I just put new nozzles on my injectors to really crank them up? or do I need to buy whole new injectors?

Thanks

 

[FullBlast]

Hey this is a interesting read here, because this is exactly what I am looking for in HP in a transplant that I want to do in the near future. I have a 4bt and am looking to put it in a GMC Denali. Looking for around 200hp and not too much smoke.

 

[the_new_kid]

The truck you see on my signature has an HE341 on it and I liked it a lot. My new project is going to get an HE351VGT but that one should be about 350-400 HP when I am done. Govener spring and adjustment on the VE pump. I figured I was in the 200-225 range. No valve springs or head studs. Oh yeah I added an intercooler because the EGT's were a little high.

The HE341's can be found in I believe 3rd gen Dodge trucks.

 

[khaoskustoms]

No fire rings or o-rings needed. I never ran my engine with the stock head bolts. I held 30psi boost with ARP2000's. They held 50psi with an o-ringed head. But wouldn't hold 70psi. As for injectors, just send them to Scott, he will build them to what you want and send them back. Best way to do it. And yes, the fuel pin is really the only part on the pump you can change for more fuel.

 

[Thinder]

Im sure Scott will agree but I would say build it, drive it, see what you think before starting to screw with stuff. Its suprising to see what 120hp of Diesel feels like. My Wagon is almost as quick as it was with the 360. That being said. Im totally getting a new turbo, and stuff.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Hope you don't mid me joining in here, camccardell, but I am hoping to build a similar engine for a HMMWV that I am getting with a locked up, dismantled 6.2L in it.

I have a buddy who is going to sell me a Cummins 3.9L BTA with the air/water after-cooler on it and the VE rotary pump attached to a TH475 auto trans. It's out a Frito truck. The engine tag says 120hp. Will the air/water after-cooled engines support 200hp with the aforementioned mods or will I have to go to an air/air?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[khaoskustoms]

I'd go air to air. Or a bigger stand alone air to water. But, I haven't tried pushing 200hp through a stock air to water intercooler.

 

[camccardell]

well I just got home. I have my 4bt in the bed of my truck. Looking forward to putting it in the the engine bay!

 

[steelsoldiers]

Woohoo! Now the fun begins. Can't wait to see the pics of your progress.

 

[camccardell]

behold, however I fear it will be like a boat. (A swirling vortex that sucks all your money away)

 

[char1355]

You asked the question about the HE341 turbo. This unit was used on 2003 - 2004 Dodge 5.9 engines. You will find the ID tag calls it an HY35W which is exactly what it is. You can easily identify it by its 4" exhaust port with a large cast iron elbow. The elbow is sometimes missing. Also the compressor housing has the outlet elbow cast as part of the housing like the later HE351's which replaced it. You might want to look at an install by 52wrench in a 1990 f150 using this turbo top mounted on the engine. That is one of the cleanest install I've seen. It looks like your engine has the exhaust manifold that is angled down. If you were going for a high mount you probably would want a different manifold. Well, it looks like its time for the fun to begin. Wish you great success with your project.

 

[khaoskustoms]

what cpl is that engine??

 

[unimog_willys]

time to put some popcorn on for this thread

 

[camccardell]

I noticed that I do not have a PS pump. Anyone have one or some images to give me some ideas? I assume they run from the back of the timing cover. I thought I saw some running off of a belt though somewhere...

 

[camccardell]

cpl is 767

 

[camccardell]

Please move this to buildup

Well, after fixing my engine stand today I started to do some basic teardown. I wanted to check for that KDP just for starts. Well It isn't even there. Maybe it fell out and is in the oil pan.

I rotated the block and took off the oil pan in an effort to find the missin pin. I didn't see any marks on the gears, so I was hoping it just fell down.

Upon pan removal I found more trouble...

The pan was rather clean

and the bottom didn't look too bad at first glance.

Cylinder #3 is pitted from rust. Here is a shot with the head off.

I took the rod cap off and tapped the piston through. Check out this funt stuff...

Bearings are shot to hell, Pitted and grooved.

and the piston had dirt in it

so I guess a complete teardown is in order. Ideas on the pin? is it required to be installed?

 

[david_brown_mt]

The KDP dowel is still there - just drive it back all the way and dimple the side of the hole good with a center punch. Those pistons are nasty!