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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I know some of you do some manifold swapping and chopping. I thought it might help to know that a 24V manifold can also be used with some grinding for port matching. If for nothing else, they look much nicer :)
Scott (CrewCab59) made the suggestion and I gave it a try. Worked like a champ:
 

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:D Yup, thats what I am doing for my F-350. I bought a new 2004 take off turbo and manifold from Scott @ destroked.com, it will be nice once its complete. Photo is just a mock up. The last picture is a before pic, to show how much needs to go away when port matching. I will have to do some simple modifications to the turbo drain tube though...:idea:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Good luck with it. I used the old HX35 turbo so I did not have to change anthing. If you look at the heads the ports are actually a good deal smaller than the gaskets. I ground the manifold to about 1/16" of the gaskets edge and it was more than enough to cover the head port.

It looks like you are using the same engine I did. What is the CPL on it? BTW, you can turn that oil pan around backwards for a rear sump. I put a dodge pan on mine due to heavy rust on the old one. I also had to get a dodge dipstick because the ford would not read on the dodge pan. The pans are a little different.
 

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My CPL is 1261. Its a 1994, 190hp with the P-Pump, from a Ford B-700 school bus! It was an adventure buying the bus! Here in Colorado, people want to charge around $4000.00-5000.00 for a 12 valve (engine only), if its running or not!:puke:

So after about 2 years of searching, I bought that bus on eBay, and had to go to Wausau, WI to get it. After I parted out the bus, I recovered most of the money back, so I have an $800.00 complete engine. From the looks of it (internally) we estimated it to have no more than 50K miles on it. Its super clean inside!, no rust in the oil cooler area like most that I have seen.:beer:

The oil pan is the 18qt version, and from the looks of it, the pan is too thick to fit properly with my Ford's crossmember. (The engine would sit too high, and would sit too far back into the firewall, just to clear the pan.) I was told that it would have fitment issues, so I just bought a new Dodge automotive oil pan and pickup tube. I am going to have to change the dipstick location to the rear, so I bought a new setup for that too. There are a few differences between the commercal and automotive engines, so I have about another $1000.00 in new hard parts and a complete gasket kit.

More pics to come, because I am now a proud blue star member:grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interesting.....same power and option setup with completely different CPL. I guess it is the years. There are some differences, but I kept just about everything from the original engine other than the oil pan and pickup. The fan location would have been a problem if I was running one, but I went electric. I can tell you that the industrial engines are horribly lazy and a little disappointing at first. But, after some pump and gov. spring mods, they wake right up.
 

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My CPL is 1261. Its a 1994, 190hp with the P-Pump, from a Ford B-700 school bus! It was an adventure buying the bus! Here in Colorado, people want to charge around $4000.00-5000.00 for a 12 valve (engine only), if its running or not!:puke:

So after about 2 years of searching, I bought that bus on eBay, and had to go to Wausau, WI to get it. After I parted out the bus, I recovered most of the money back, so I have an $800.00 complete engine. From the looks of it (internally) we estimated it to have no more than 50K miles on it. Its super clean inside!, no rust in the oil cooler area like most that I have seen.:beer:

The oil pan is the 18qt version, and from the looks of it, the pan is too thick to fit properly with my Ford's crossmember. (The engine would sit too high, and would sit too far back into the firewall, just to clear the pan.) I was told that it would have fitment issues, so I just bought a new Dodge automotive oil pan and pickup tube. I am going to have to change the dipstick location to the rear, so I bought a new setup for that too. There are a few differences between the commercal and automotive engines, so I have about another $1000.00 in new hard parts and a complete gasket kit.

More pics to come, because I am now a proud blue star member:grinpimp:
The bus pan touches the member and engine won't clear the fire wall.

Scott
 

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F350JOHN Wrote:
The oil pan is the 18qt version, and from the looks of it, the pan is too thick to fit properly with my Ford's crossmember. (The engine would sit too high, and would sit too far back into the firewall, just to clear the pan.) I was told that it would have fitment issues, so I just bought a new Dodge automotive oil pan and pickup tube. I am going to have to change the dipstick location to the rear, so I bought a new setup for that too.
CrewCab59 Wrote:
The bus pan touches the member and engine won't clear the fire wall.

Scott
See Scott confirmed it, so I am glad that I listened to everyone and bought the Dodge automotive pan.

My fan hub was also a "top mount" style, so the fan would sit way too high, I'd have to drive hoodless!:eek: Try buying one of those fan hubs from Cummins, its $288.00 just for that! So yeah, the few things I bought and the gaskets were alot, but I figured, do it right before installing it.
 

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fan hub

you can flip the fan hubs over, they can be ran either direction, you just have to change a few accessories to make them work, or use the Dodge bracket that is offset, run a short centerline and no fan
 

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you can flip the fan hubs over, they can be ran either direction, you just have to change a few accessories to make them work, or use the Dodge bracket that is offset, run a short centerline and no fan
No sir, you can not. The fan hub mounting holes in the block are spaced different between the upper two bolts and the lower two bolts. The Lower holes are wider than the upper. I would have liked to flip mine over and save some money, for upgrades;)
 

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fan hub

if you started out with the offset hub I agree, however there are a number of hubs that can be flipped over. Sorry if I was unclear.
 

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any one have any comparison pictures between the different turbo locations. I think by changing my manifold I can regain the space my heater core box needs.

would love to have heat!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can search for other pics, but this type of manifold cut down(using the rear 4) for a 4BT would make for a nice mounting location tight to the engine. It is only a couple inches off the block so it should clear about any heater box; frame clearance would be the issue. Mine has about 1 inch to the frame.
 

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this type of manifold cut down (using the rear 4) for a 4BT would make for a nice mounting location tight to the engine.
You would have to do a lot of cutting inside.....one side of the turbo would have 3 cyls and the other side of the turbo only 1 cyl
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You would have to do a lot of cutting inside.....one side of the turbo would have 3 cyls and the other side of the turbo only 1 cyl
Very good point....did not think of that. You could probably take out a section right at the turbine housing and get favorable results. The devided tang housing does not really care if it is mated to dedicated cylinders. I know of one guy running through only one side to increase responsiveness on a sluggish spooling setup(over-turboed gasser). If you asked me before he did it, i would have said it would not work. However, it worked great for him and made the car respond much quicker.
 
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