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I'm new to the site and I currently have a Detroit project going on. The engine I have is a Silver 3-53T out of a trencher that the original owner swapped a 6bt into. The engine has about 1600 hours on it and after sitting it for a few years it wasnt siezed so i swapped the oil filter and put some new oil in it and hooked up a battery too it and after the first few cranks it had smoke coming out of the exhaust. It runs pretty good have fixed all the oil leaks but after reading up what everyone here did I might have to take the oil pan back off and swap it sump back. The vehicle I am putting the engine into is a 1990 chevrolet full size blazer that has a tired 350TBI v8 and a TH700R4 automatic transmission. I have had ordered the pheonix adaptors to make the sae 3 bell housing and the sae 11 1/2 flywheel look like a small block chevrolet engine. I haven't figured out the engine mounts yet I have a 7.3L ford powerstroke with the mounts on it and I have ordered some cummins engine mounts so I will see what kind of stuff I can fab up, any help on making mounts. I have also got a custom made torque converter with a 1200 rpm stall so my powerband is still usable with an light duty automatic transmission. For brakes I have a hydraulic brake booster off of a 1985 gmc 1500 with a 6.2L diesel, for people running power steering pumps what did you use for mounts for them did you make one or is there something that can be easily adapted.

Share your thoughts and any tips you can give someone.
I have a 53 series manual but its for a 2-53 that came in a JD 440 crawler tractor.
 

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Sounds like you're got a good start on your project. To be honest i'd be a little leary about the 700r4 trans. Getting the TV cable geometry to work 'right' with the 353 torque curve may be tricky.

good luck, and post some pics.
 

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Power steering pump mount,you'll have to fabricate . I've used the original OEM bracket that holds the pump,then fabricated a bracket with swivel and adjustment slot to work with that . Use a TV[throttle valve} cable like on an Allison for your modulator control .
 

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Detroit Guru I'm not, but they are famous for having most of their torque available right off idle.

If that 700R is going to live I would think a "full pressure" valve body would be a real good idea (TCI part IIRC)

Or you could sell that and get a stronger trans, some people are still paying a premium for the 700, might cover the cost of a better trans.

Definitely be cheaper in the long run than the cost to reinforce the 700R (read that as every reinforcement part available, and still may not survive).
 

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Welcome!

A 3-53T silver is about 140 hp right? Should be fine as you have planned.

For a PS pump you can use one mounted low on the left side like a late 70's gm truck with a 4-53T used. Otherwise fabricate something. Another option but probably not room for one direct mounted on a rear accesory drive is there?

Mounts you'll have to figure out, typically a pair on the flywheel housing and one front and center.

Grigg
 

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Yes 140 hp according to the sticker on the valve cover. I like junkmans idea to make a ps pump mount and will probably end up doing that.
 

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Do you guys think that the stock 10 bolt(8.5 inch 30 spline) half ton axles will hold up or do you think that i should do a Dana 60 and FF 14 bolt swap?
This is just going to be my daily driver to get to work and back with maybe the odd off road adventure and I am hoping it will pull a 18 foot stock trailer a little better than the tired 350 will but that usually happens once or twice a year.

Since I cant post any outside material to the site untill I have 10 posts you guys will have to wait for pics. I am part of TNTGP and they have a website my build is on there under the hardcore tech and my username is the same. There is some pics of the engine and adaptors on there for those of you interested.
 

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I think you will be just fine with the 10 bolt axles and your 700r4 trans.

I'm running a Perkins 4-236t in my 72 ford,backed by a 700 and 9" rear with the little 28 spline axles, and it works just dandy.
353ts a little heavier but I boubt you will have any problems as long as you don't go try and do some crazy wheeling or just plain beat on it.
 

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Since I cant post any outside material to the site untill I have 10 posts you guys will have to wait for pics. I am part of TNTGP and they have a website my build is on there under the hardcore tech and my username is the same. There is some pics of the engine and adaptors on there for those of you interested.
Here you go
http://www.tntgp.com/showthread.php?tid=1622

Do you have a webshots account or similar with more pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No I don't yet. I lent out my camera so all my pictures have been taken with my cell phone so I was waiting till i could get it and take some stills and a HD vid of it running.
 

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Got a little bit more work done to it today.
I had to drop the oil pan again and flip the pan around so the sump is on the back side. The pick up tube wouldn't fit after so I had to fab an extension on the pick up tube and cut half the pick up screen off and fold it over so it would fit with the oil pan on. Now I have to figure out where to put my turbo return line since it was on the side of the oil pan, I am thinking of making a return into the dipstick tube or into the oil drain. I had some help so I got my brother to take the front fenders hood and rad support off. The engine is ready to come out tomorrow evening. Hopefully I will have enough time to fab up some engine mounts and set it in if not that will have to wait. I will get some pics up when I can.


Does anyone know of a smaller oil filter that will fit on the filter housing. I have a huge JD filter that i could put on but would prefer something a little smaller. And does anyone have an idea for the turbo drain? If I put a T in the drain and plug one end and put the return tube on the other does anyone see a problem with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I updated the build thread on tnt with pictures. There is a 1/2 inch square plug or valve on the supercharger does anyone know what this valve is for?
 

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Its a bypass valve. One of the improvements in a "Silver 53" engine.

Do you have a service manual yet,
 

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Look for the service manual that comes in two separate white three ring binders, May of 1990 is the latest I believe (someone looking at theirs please confirm)

I find them on ebay quite regularly and if they go to cheap I buy them, unfortunately I'm out of spares at the moment so you'll have to look for yourself.

Grigg
 

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For your turbo oil return line the best option is to braze an identical fitting in the opposite side of the pan.
The dipstick is not large enough, and the oil drain on the bottom of the pan is a bad idea because the turbo oil return should be above the oil level in the pan. The whole idea of the turbo oil drain is large, clear, and down hill so there is no restriction that could cause oil to stay in the turbo and work past the seals.

When you turned the pan around and made an oil pickup extension I'm surprised you needed to also trim the screen. I've made extensions for 4-53T pickups and that's all there was to it, no trimming needed.
If you want you could look for a factory oil pickup tube. I also have a 3-53T Silver and need to turn the pan around, I don't have the new tube yet but have been assured by several knowledgeable Detroit folks that one exist, and have an offer from a local guy to trade for one. (Now if this were an automotive 4-53T we'd be out of luck because there is no pickup tube available for a rear sump pan)

Grigg
 

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Does anyone know of a smaller oil filter that will fit on the filter housing.
Yes, Detroit offers a shorter one, and there is an even shorter Baldwin but you'd need more frequent oil changes. so use the short Detroit one as a first choice and the even shorter Baldwin as a second choice.

Here's a picture of the short Detroit one. Part number 23530411
The folks at Leid diesel can give you all the options and part numbers too. You could also use a remote oil filter setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For my oil pick up I extended the tube 5.5 inchs and you might be able to extend it an extra half an inch but I am not to sure if the sump would still hit the screen or not and you would have to flip the support bracket around. The 5.5 inch was the aproximate lenght from one crankshaft saddle to the other. Its not too big of a deal since there is still such a large surface area on the screen.
 
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