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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Yes the project is still going! Had some slow downs and changes of plans, but a very hot 4-53 with lots of boost is still going in a square chevy. I've hit the point in life where a regular cab truck didn't make a whole ton of sense anymore with a daughter and pooch, so I sold the red chevy. To replace it, I picked up an 82 k30 454 4spd truck from california with 110kmi and all original minus new carpet, headliner, and 88-91 grill swap. My compound turbo vw diesel swapped ford ranger has become the wheeling toy, so I no longer needed a dual purpose rig, I need a straight up hauling rig. The truck runs and drives as is, I'm going to try to build the 4-53 over the winter and get it swapped in on mechanical power. Once I get the motor in and running, I will do the ddec conversion.

Here's the new recipient
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Some buddies showed up last night, some beers were opened, that led to the shop getting reorganized, which led to the detroit getting pulled out and worked on :D.

Crank plastigauged right at .002" and spins like a dream.




Need to get make a trip for stainless bolts for the front cover, oil cooler, and air compressor brackets. Slowly but surely!
 

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Some buddies showed up last night, some beers were opened, that led to the shop getting reorganized, which led to the detroit getting pulled out and worked on :D.

Crank plastigauged right at .002" and spins like a dream.




Need to get make a trip for stainless bolts for the front cover, oil cooler, and air compressor brackets. Slowly but surely!
Nice to see you working on it again.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Collecting more oddball parts, I was able to track down a starter drive for my air starter. Figured it was a good night to crack a beer and mess with it. HD starters all run the same mount pattern/ring gear offset, you just change out the pinion gear to match your ring gear. I needed to swap to a 8/10 pitch 12 tooth gear according to the chart from Ingersoll.



New vs old


 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
The man, the myth, the legend Wayne himself came out this past weekend from NY for the semi drag races at Onaway. He brought a few goodies with him for my project and assisted in getting the pistons/liners in the block with the oem setup tools.


Wayne had a run of custom flaps made, so naturally a set will end up on this truck


DDEC 4 8V92 ecm that Wayne reflashed to a base file for a 350hp 4 cyl with 3400rpm limter.


Set of 4 dyno tested only injectors from a 550hp 8v92 to get it started on while Exergy builds my big injectors.


DDEC 4-71T engine harness


Since half the reason anyone does a Detroit swap is to have Jake brakes, they're definitely going on. However, I refuse to pay ~$1k/cyl that they sell for. I bought a 3 axis cnc that's due for delivery in the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to make some. Wayne was kind enough to leave me with one master and one slave to measure up. If they made these things back in the 50's, absolutely no reason they can be re-made today in a cnc and be made publicly available for affordable prices.


Lastly, Wayne helped get the pistons/liners assembled and dropped in the engine with use of his special tools be brought out.
 

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I've been following this thread for a looong time! So happy to see you making progress. I just posted about machining up some Jakes today. Strange world. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Been using the old girl for work all summer hauling junk, but I've collected a few key parts over the last few weeks. The plan is to tear the truck down and swap it this winter.

12klbs of concrete blocks on friend's trailer


Eaton truetrac for front end


Dana 3.54 gear set for the front 60 that came with the truetrac. Also ordered all bearings/seals/shims/king pins/joints/35 spline outers/yukon locking hubs.


As I don't want a 205 transfer case to be the fuse in my driveline, I hunted for something bigger. I found a Rockwell T223 from a ford F650. That should hold up to my planned uses and already had 1480 yokes on all 3 flanges. Needs a good cleaning and a few seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Guess I should make an update of the small bits of progress that have slowly been happening.

The guts of the rockwell T223 make a np205 look cute


There's a special place in hell for the asshole that decided to weld this flange on instead of replacing an $8 snap ring


After an hour of die grinding, the war was won.


After another hour of elbow grease, we have a clean case!


Between ebay and rock auto, all the transfer case bearings are on the way! If anyone else ever needs the generic numbers for a T223 they are:
1x - 308 ball bearing
1x - 1828S149 ball bearing with snap ring groove. 6211 is the industry number, but it won't have the snap ring groove.
1x - 3307 ball bearing
1x - 208 ball bearing
2x - 31521 cup
1x - HM89449 cone
1x - 25520 cup
1x - 25821 cup
1x - 25584 cone
1x - 31597 cone
1x - 02476 cone

Also picked up a ford disk brake dana 80 from an 08 e350 ambulance to upgrade over the dana 70 currently in the truck. One of the last to have 8x6.5 bolt pattern, just need to turn the pilot diameter on the hubs down slightly.


The pile of oddball parts on the shelf is starting to accumulate.






Camshaft came back from Colt Cams, it's now a custom grind for some extra breathing.
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Bearings showed up so it was time to get to work!

In this case, bearing preload is set by shims between the case and bearing cap. Book says 3-5 thou for input shaft play, but with all the shims I had there was zero play. As rockwell parts aren't falling off trees, it was much easier to take a 5 thou cut out of the bearing cap to create bearing clearance so a measurement could be taken.


5 thou cut out


Anerobic sealant on each side of the multiple thin shims


Removed one 2 thou shim and landed right at 2.5 thou clearance, close enough.





Now onto fixing the damaged snap ring groove. Aluminum bronze rod was very carefully tig brazed to build up the splines that were ground away. Chucked it in the lathe and cut the OD of the new bronze spline ends to match the other side of the groove and then recut the groove to 1/8" wide.



Used some small files to square up the sides of the new bronze splines so the flange would slide on.




Ended up here for today


 

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I literally made an account just to tell you how impressed I am with this build. I actually just bought a 78 C30 with a 453t swapped into it already. Spicer 5052 with a D70 rear. I'll make sure to post pictures when it arrives by carrier. Thanks for all the knowledge sharing. I know the post write ups must take a bit of time, but the journey will for sure be worth it.
 

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No hurt feelings here at all, I know it was in good spirits as I'm the newb here and none of us know what exactly each other knows. Ya know? This 10 post rule before posting links or pics is a pain, I have some things to share that I'm sure put us all on a closer page 🍺

Good to hear others are running huge injectors and they're still driveable. Once p pumped 5.9's get over ~550-600hp they are a turd to drive around anytime you're not at 100% throttle in the boost. I don't think my power goal is out of this world, 1.88hp/cube isn't an outlandish figure for a turbo diesel with modern technology parts being added into the equation.

No worries man, I know you're being helpful which I greatly appreciate. I'm on a lot of different forums and there's some real arse holes out there that refuse to help anyone for absolutely no reason.

I've been reading as much I can find on the valves and floating, I know Sharfer was having some issues between 3500-3800rpms if I recall correctly. I plan on picking up 1 of each of the stiffer springs and popping them on a spring tester to get some real numbers. I'll post up the results of course. Running 2x speed on the valve train certainly makes things interesting. But man does it look cool idling with the valve cover off!

I wasn't denouncing the factory head bolts, a 5/8" bolt is nothing to scoff at. I'm just extremely accustomed to using upgraded hardware throughout on a motor build as cheap insurance. Ever since I had a factory rod bolt fail and cause a stage left exit, I'll happily pay a few extra $$ on better hardware in the beginning to never have that happen again. I was 2000 miles from home on dec 23rd when she let go idling at a traffic light.

Dang, 1hp/cube is very high for a factory motor. The 140 in N140 means 140cc of fuel per 1000 injections right? Just making sure it's in the same lingo as the rest of the diesel world. If those 7105's are one step above, that's a much lower fuel delivery rate than I was expecting for the "big boys" of the lineup. My little 12mm VE pump with the 5x.013 nozzles is running at 290cc/1000 strokes on my compound turbo tdi and I have just a light haze at full song.

The old Jimmy's are definitely a unique breed! That's the entire reason one's going in my old chevy :). There's a handful of Fummins and Chummins running around my neck of the woods, but no screamin' demons.

The old t04b's aren't the worst turbo out there, but new turbos are so much more efficient and responsive. The new borg warner EFR's are amazing. Pricey, but you get what you pay for. The more efficient your turbo is, the lower your IAT's will be, the less boost you need to make X power. I know the 4 stroke mods don't directly translate over, but air and fuel are still the keys to efficient power. My wagon with 3500lbs in tow going up a 6% grade at 3Krpm and 70mph sits at 45psi boost and 875*F egt's. That's 7000lbs being pulled by a tiny 1.9L diesel and it's completely happy due to the insane amount of airflow mods I did.

Research and saving money is why I'm here! As I said before, I have enough knowledge to be dangerous, but by absolutely no means an expert. I learned a long time ago it's cheaper to ask for help than to be stubborn and drive in circles.

The only DD truck I've ridden in is my friends 87k30/56 bodied 6v53 with twin parallel turbos and large intercooler. On the chassis dyno it was 390whp and 1190tq with N90's. It certainly scoots! But you can feel how heavy that motor is. I'm after the same power level with 500+ less pounds hanging off the front. The truck right now has ~380hp with the 383 gasser, detuning isn't an option :D
remember the 140 cc per k is = to 280cc on a 4 stroke ......
 

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Glad to see your still at it. I have wanted to commonrail my detroits for some time. I'm better at tuning a diesel with a laptop. If I had endless funds and time I would. DDEC is the best option without major fabrication.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I literally made an account just to tell you how impressed I am with this build. I actually just bought a 78 C30 with a 453t swapped into it already. Spicer 5052 with a D70 rear. I'll make sure to post pictures when it arrives by carrier. Thanks for all the knowledge sharing. I know the post write ups must take a bit of time, but the journey will for sure be worth it.
Thank you very much for the kind words! It's taking way longer than I wanted, but that's how all projects go right?!


Glad to see your still at it. I have wanted to commonrail my detroits for some time. I'm better at tuning a diesel with a laptop. If I had endless funds and time I would. DDEC is the best option without major fabrication.
I agree, there's a cheap enough common rail diesel ecu available, but that's metric crap ton of fabrication/engineering to make it run and be reliable. I plan to drag a trailer regularly across the country with this frankenstein, so DDEC is probably the most reliable option.



I guess I forgot to add some pictures of the progresses since my last post here. So here's a photo dump!

















The trailer I ordered back in january finally showed up the last week, just in time to get all kinds of stuff hauled around before winter! It's a 32' Diamond C with hydraulic dove/jacks, 12k disk axles, tandem 17.5s, 12" OC crossmembers, and air ride with lift front axle. It wasn't cheap, but it should be the last big trailer I ever buy.

I immediately sealed/stained the deck to preserve it and wired up a 2 channel Kar-Tech wireless remote system to run the hydraulics and warn 8274. All the rebuild parts showed up this week for the old warn so that will be an evening project for next week.


A few weeks back I managed to snag this Reading steel flat bed for $1100 semi locally to serve as something temporary so I'm not running around bedless anymore. Long term plan is a dumping aluminum flat bed, but this will at least make it look like I didn't steal my own trailer haha.


Setting the bed on the truck, it was clearly too long and looked odd. Cutting 11" out of it was simple enough and it looks much better and the receiver is sticking out slightly as it should. Made up some quick mount plates and pulled it back off for a quick blast/paint. Got the bottom blasted and half painted before running out of daylight today.












 
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