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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yeah. You are still relying on the single factory curcuit to run the dual hydro boost. Have you have any problems with it? I might be able to fit mine at a 45* angle, or even more as the brackets on mine are setup for an angled install with a bell crank.
 

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I had a slightly different situation, but here is a link to how I did a dual remote master cylinder.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wolfcreeks-autocar-build.920108/page-3 (post #84)
I am running tandem rear axles and didn't want to rely on one dual master to supply all the brakes. 1961 Chev pick-up (I think 3/4 ton) has a dual cylinder that originally supplied brakes on one side and clutch slave on the other. Both sides are the same bore, but only the brake has a residual valve in it.
I am going to run 2 Hydroboosts with each side of the Chevy master supplying a slave for 1 Hydroboost, this gives me 2 completely separate brake systems. (other than one pedal)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
DUDE!!!

I love that steering wheel. I am so stealing that idea for my 60! Also, that AutoCar embossed emblem on the sides of the sleep are absolutely amazing! You, sir, do great work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I have another question: I am looking for a radiator that will do the job of this truck. I saw a nice aluminum rad from a 66ish Mustang V8. 3 rows, will fit in the stock location of my 60 F350. Will it keep the thing cool? I don't want put on that is on the edge of not being about to do the job. The stock 292 rad might do the job?


Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/KKS-3-ROW-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-FOR-1962-1970-20-Universal-Small-Block-Ford-/191510862144?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c96efd940&vxp=mtr
 

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In my opinion, there is nothing worse than a vehicle that you can't trust to stay cool in all circumstances. (I've had them, Ugh) This is one of the places to spend money to get the best. I think your truck might have been available with a 352 and a cooling system for that engine should cool a 4-53 unless you get way crazy with boost and injectors. I would leave the aluminum radiators for the hot rod guys and invest in a good old copper radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
What is your reasoning behind staying away from aluminum? Alum dissipate heat much faster than copper/brass.Just curious as I've never had a problem with any of the aluminum rads I have run in the past. I don't have the original rad nor do I have any rad for this truck.
 

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What is your reasoning behind staying away from aluminum? Alum dissipate heat much faster than copper/brass.
This will probably start a huge fight, but.......
Absolutely NOT! Why do you think EOMs always used copper until light weight and cheap replaced quality in car and truck manufacturing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If that is the reason to stay away from aluminum I may as well pull out the 375k miles rad from my Powerstroke and replace it with old brass!;) I won't fight about it but that's a pretty shody agruement for staying away from aluminuim.
 

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I am just telling you what is best, if you don't want to know "best", why bother to ask questions at all!
 

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What is best depends on the application. Copper/brass radiators do dissipate more heat if identical to an aluminum one. Thing is aluminum can be made with wider tubes and more cooling surface in the same area at a far lower weight so it can be an advantage for certain things. I've run both and never had a problem with either type. My truck with the 4-53t has a stock 2 core copper/brass gm radiator with dense fin count and it cools fine. Quality of both have suffered from overseas manufacturing. Dont be cheap and you'll be fine.
 

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I have used an OEM 4 row core radiator in my 70 GMC for 25 years that did a good job without using the electric fans 95% of the time . I did buy an aluminum radiator from BE COOL at a Summit Racing open house about 10 years ago . It sat in the original box til last year as I have to re-engineer hose connections to use it. But the sales guy claimed it would cool 1000 HP .
 

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I have to laugh at salesman's claims sometimes. Is that 1000hp on alcohol, gasoline, diesel, or nitro? It all makes a difference!
 

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Main problem I've always been aware of is strength/durability. On the whole alloy rads seem to fail (crack mostly) much earlier than brass/copper units. They're always much cheaper too which has always made me suspicious. And brass/copper is WAY easier to repair thoroughly.
 

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I never said it won't help. Especially if you bump up to larger injectors. More fuel needs more air. Just don't expect another 100hp. There's also quite a few differences in a turbo engine. My 54 has a 453N that was rebuilt to turbo specs with 60's has plenty of power to scoot around with. Might dig up shafers builds he plays with diffrent turbos on the Detroit's. I am sure there's untapped power with the right sizing with these days options including ball bearings, billet wheels, different housings, vgt...
Out of curiosity what all had to be replaced to be built to turbo specs?
 
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