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Well, this is happening a little bit sooner then I wanted. But, oh well. I went camping this weekend and about 45 min from home the front seal on the trany decided it didn't like doing it's job anymore. So, after leaving a nice red trail on the highway, covering the front of my rv and the whole underside of my truck, it looks like I'm going to be doing a full rebuild this week. I'll take some pics and post them up as I go.

Stephen
 

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not sure, it only ran for about 30 seconds with out oil. I lost forward drive right away, so I just pulled off the highway and shut it down. But, I did notice that when I was pushing the truck off the trailer and onto my hoist, it didn't want to push easy, so I'm thinking one of the clutch packs must be seized on.

Stephen
 

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I know they are not close to Alberta but I give my best recommendation for Dodge diesel trannies to Gorend Brothers in IA. But no matter, I am sorry to hear your vacation was cut short and wish you the best of luck with whomever you choose.
 

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sorry to hear about the carnage...last i heard you were on your way south for another 4b...did you make it?

and we want pics of the siezed clutches and melted seals...:beer:

p.s...i talk often with the guys at A&C transmission on winterburn road.fyi...they make torque converters in house.mild to wild.
 

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Stephen,

well that sucks, i have a builder that is going to build mine i can set you up with, he is in Armstrong bc
i was going to ask how you liked the 5-speed in the sand with all that power,and the short wheelbase...you going auto?
 

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Luckily for me the girlfriends dad rebuilds trannies for a living. So he is going to give me a hand this week and we are going to rebuild it at my shop. Plans include a transgo shift kit, billet triple disk converter and probably put in some heavy duty clutches.

Stephen
 

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Got the trany out this morning. Found the reason for my leak. The front pump bushing spun and pulled forward into the pump seal causing all the oil to pour out the front. I'm still going to open it up rebuild it anyways.

Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, here we go. Here's a pic of the culprit. You can just barely see the shiney thing in the seal, that's the front pump bushing. It spun loose and walked into the seal causing all the oil to pour out.



Here's a pic of the trany and all the parts out on the bench.



A pic of the truck on the hoist.



At the trany shop, ready for dissasembly.



First step, remove shift shaft linkage and kickdown linkage. Also remove front band nut and stud.
 

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Next, stand on her tail and remove the rear trany crossmember. Unbolt the O/D extension housing and the trany pan.



Oh dear what is that on the filter??? Seems like the torque converter was just starting to eat itself.



And in the pan



Next, start unbolting the valve body.



No need to remove the filter or anything off the valvebody at this time. Just take out all the bolts and mark or remember where they go.
 

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When removeing valvebody, you will have to disengage the park pawl rod and lever from the trany case. You just have to hold your tongue the right way and it slides right out.



And now you are left with this.



Next, lift off the O/D section. No snap rings hold it on. Just the bolts to the case.



Flip it onto it's back and now you can unbolt the pump and remove it.

 

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Now, take remove the bolts around the center of the pump and remove the cover. Inspect the pump for damage.



Next you grab onto the input shaft and pull the whole assembly out of the trany. Seperate the big parts and now you can remove the snap rings to inspect the clutch packs. This is where it get's very important to mark where all the snaprings, clutches, and plates go and in what order. Haveing a helper with a book next to you is good. They can right or draw a picture of how it came apart.



Here is what is all that's left to remove in the case.



And these are the parts that are on the bench. They can all be inspected for scoring, heat marks, wear, etc. If any of the steels are shiney in the clutch packs, then they need to be sanded rough. If they are blue from heat, then they need to be replaced. General rule, replace all thrust washers and bearings, as well as the sprag clutches. Make sure that whatever you replace ends up being the same thickness as what you took out.

 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Now you can remove the output shaft (it goes into the O/D unit.) as well as the sun shell and low/reverse band. Inspect all. You can remove the lever's that actuate the bands, the low/reverse lever pivot pushes out the back of the trany, it may be sticky because of 2 o-rings. DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THOSE O-RINGS!!! They can cause a sane man to go crazy!!! The 2nd gear lever pivot pulls out the front, remove the plug in the bellhousing and pull the pin out with pliers. Now, look at that lever, one of the best upgrades is to go to a 5.0 ratio lever. It will say on the side of the lever what it is. Mine was a 3.8. The 5.0 ratio allows the band to apply and release faster, giving you quicker shifts. You can also remove the accumulators. You will have to press down on the one to get the snap ring out. Again, good to have a friend handy. Also remove the shift shaft seal. Now you should have an empty case.



Now you can tackle the O/D unit. Remove the 2 srews that are under the trany mount and pry off the plate they hold on. You will see a snap ring under it, that hold's the output shaft in. Don't remove it yet.




Looking into the O/D unit.



Now you have to compress the clutches in a press to remove the snap ring.

 

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Now you can take it out of the press and put it back on the bench. Get out your snap ring pliers and spread the snap ring through the little slot in the housing. You shouldn't have to tap the shaft out, it should fall right out once you have the snap ring fully released.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
And here is the O/D section gutted.



Now, when beefing up a 47RH trans, the planetaries determine the strength. A 3 pin planetary is week, only found in gaser tranies. A 4 pin is better but not that strong. Some diesels had it. A 5 pin is real good, a 5 pin steel with straight cut gears is really tough. And the best, a 6 pin steel. (The 48RE's use this.) I have a 5 pin aluminum in the forward section and a 5 pin steel in the O/D section. I won't have any problems breaking those. You will want high energy bands (the more band's that are wide enough to cover the whole drum are the best, doesn't matter if they have slot's cut in them or not) and clutches, I'm not sure on what I'm using, but I will post the brand and part # when I see them. I am using a Trans Go shift kit as well and a triple disk billet lockup converter. Once finished, it should be good for 500hp and 1000ftlbs torque. The next set of pics will be the assembly. (Oh, and now would be a good time to clean all the parts and the case in solevent. You can even paint the case if you like.)

Stephen
 
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