Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

41 - 60 of 77 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
718 Posts
hey guys,not to dis that puller it looks like great work ! but totally not needed, i can have all 4 liners out before you can install the tool, fire up your welder and drag your stic up from the bottom to top at 45degree angles your not welding as you drag it just watch the liner turn blue ahead of your stick then reach in with your welding glove and lift it out, lightly ball hone block and freeze your liners and install very quickly last 2" lay 2x4 across top of liner and push, done....
Sound like an interesting approach. I'll have to try it on a block I'm scrapping out. I'm assuming you are using a stick welder vs. mig or tig?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
yep use stick,i maintained a fleet of chevy tiltmasters for a customer all 6bdit's have inframed at least 20 of them,this is all old school , if your not old enough to remember piston knurlers,vaulve guide knurlers,ridge reamers, and guide knurlers, you would'nt know, works better and faster,now i teach these young bucks, how to beat flat rate. cheers....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
yes stic, helps to kink your rod at about 1/3 of rod length to get more squared up with the bore,remember your not welding to the liner just drag and you will see the liner turn blue ahead of your stic 4x45d cover your crank with heat resistant material to avoid splatter if your inframing, all dry liners are done this way, and if you work at a shop you will beat the hell out of the flat rate.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,764 Posts
Be careful though. I know an Aussie who accidentally struck an arc on the deck while doing that. Makes for an expensive welding table.

Why are you ball-honing the liners? AFAIK they are finished and ready to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
yes stic, helps to kink your rod at about 1/3 of rod length to get more squared up with the bore,remember your not welding to the liner just drag and you will see the liner turn blue ahead of your stic 4x45d cover your crank with heat resistant material to avoid splatter if your inframing, all dry liners are done this way, and if you work at a shop you will beat the hell out of the flat rate.
Or you can buy spatter spray to help out. It would bet better if you GTA welded it over stick. GTAW produces no spatter and will give you a much higher quality weld. Yeah it sucks to do but you'll thank yourself later. For the record GTAW is Gas Tungsten Arc Welding or TIG. Its more expensive to buy but much nicer over all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
as i said YOUR NOT WELDING 6010 or 7018 does not like to stick to a cromeard liner you are just draging it up the bore of the liner slow enough to see it change color to blue, you are not creating a bead, and you dont ball hone the liner, just cleaning up the bore of the block, dont make it harder than it is, and if you stick your rod to the deck, you should'nt be workin on your own stuff, just lightly ball hone and clean with brake cleaner,will aid in liner install,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
I have it! Looks like I need to get those liners swapped out... I will look for your PM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Am I missing something?

So I'm in the process of replacing the liners in a 88 4bd1t. So my question is do I really need to remove the crank to remove the liners? This is the first isuzu I have done liners on, I have gone several C series cummins and DT Internationals and never had to remove the crank for a "inframe" rebuild.

I guess if I need to remove the crank with this tool, I will just track down the tool I used for other inframes I have done and use it, I really don't want to remove the crank if I don't need too.
Thanks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,764 Posts
So I'm in the process of replacing the liners in a 88 4bd1t. So my question is do I really need to remove the crank to remove the liners? This is the first isuzu I have done liners on, I have gone several C series cummins and DT Internationals and never had to remove the crank for a "inframe" rebuild.

I guess if I need to remove the crank with this tool, I will just track down the tool I used for other inframes I have done and use it, I really don't want to remove the crank if I don't need too.
Thanks.
They can be done with the crank and engine in place, provided you have access under the sump. That's how I did it last time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
This particular tool would require the removal of the crank, as the threaded shaft is welded onto the puller and would be too big to maneuver around the crank.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Well that sucks. Hopefully the other puller will work on the smaller bore isuzu.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Ok.. So my universal tool does work on the Isuzu without removing the crank. I will be sending the loaner tool to the next user...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Ok.. So my universal tool does work on the Isuzu without removing the crank. I will be sending the loaner tool to the next user...
Thanks for getting it to me so quickly! And big thanks to Dustin for making this available for everyone. I know it saved me a hunk of change.

I'll get it cleaned up, packaged and ready to mail. When someone needs it, just reply to this message.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I'll try to get it out today assuming I get off work in time to get to the post office. If not it will go tomorrow. I will let you know when it ships.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Cat,

It did ship on 10/31 USPS priority mail in a medium flat rate box. The tools weigh over 20 pounds so this is the least expensive way to ship it. Just passing this info on. Good luck with your build!
 
41 - 60 of 77 Posts
Top