4BD1T going into a Toyota Troopcarrier

3237 Views 38 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Theglobb, 5 mo ago

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · 10 mo ago

Hey there, I’m new here but have been on mud for a while… recently my engine blew up in my 1987 BJ75 Troop Carrier and I’m trying to find a cheap and reliable engine. Then a 1989 NPR popped up for sale near me for $2500 with 89,000 miles… no brainer. I’m just having trouble finding any adapter still available today to fit it up to my H55f tranny. Does anyone have one laying around or know any other work arounds to make it work? Thanks!!

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Dougal

· #21 · 9 mo ago

Michael Osoba said:
Another trick, for future reference, is mushing bread or grease in there and smacking a slightly smaller diameter dowel in, then repeat. I know it sounds like a joke, but I’ve seen one removed this way and heard of quite a few more.

I used that grease method to "hydraulic" out my crank spigot bearing. Works great. Generates a lot of pressure but just keep packing the grease back in.

Theglobb said:
Any recommendations? also should I get a new/different manifold along with the turbo? Thanks

Stock manifold has a T3 flange, the best turbo to bolt to that is a Holset HX30 with 6cm turbine housing and 44mm compressor intake.
There are a lot of other options as well depending on your goals, budget and appetite for work.

Reactions: 1

DieselColorado05

· #22 · 8 mo ago

Dougal does the Holset HX30 use the same fittings for oil feed, so direct bolt on. minus the oil drain? Does it have coolant lines aswell? Thanks.

Dougal

· #23 · 8 mo ago

DieselColorado05 said:
Dougal does the Holset HX30 use the same fittings for oil feed, so direct bolt on. minus the oil drain? Does it have coolant lines aswell? Thanks.

Probably not to both. I've never had an HX30 in my hands.

Reactions: 2

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #24 · 8 mo ago

6

Came home for fall break and pulled the 3B out of my troopy. Now I can measure everything I need and hopefully figure out what to do and how to even start to make all the stuff needed to adapt the engine to the h55f. Gonna keep it 24v, don't want to have to rewire and switch out every bulb to 12v. Easy to find 24v stuff for these engines. Also will run cables to the injection pump for fuel shutoff and enrichment for startup. Most everything will be mechanical, just how I want it.

Will update in a while with more progress or roadblocks... probably a lot of both haha

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Michael Osoba

· #25 · 8 mo ago

Nice! Looking forward to seeing this.
Also, love that Pig in the background.

I think I remember a thread on ‘Mud about someone upgrading from a 3B to a 15BFT and using a bigger Isuzu clutch. If I find it, and it’s relevant, I’ll post it up.

Reactions: 1

FourSixEast

· #26 · 7 mo ago

Michael Osoba said:
Another trick, for future reference, is mushing bread or grease in there and smacking a slightly smaller diameter dowel in, then repeat. I know it sounds like a joke, but I’ve seen one removed this way and heard of quite a few more.

Used grease to remove pilot bearing with grease-gun filled pilot hole and used a long bolt that fits in the bearing ID; filled 'er up tight and smacking the bolt with taps from a hammer.

Pushed the bearing out hydraulically like a champ.

SUBRUTUS

· #27 · 6 mo ago

Nice project there...

Reactions: 1

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #28 · 5 mo ago

Ok well I'm back home. I should have been working on the swap for the past 2 weeks but my adapter plate hasn't been cut out yet... such a pain I feel like I'm just wasting a massive amount of time.

Now that the negativity is out of the way. Now its just a waiting game. Took a look at the turbo today, it feels fine and doesn't have any crazy play. I realize people shit on these stock turbos but I am on a budget at the moment so it will work just fine for a year or 2. Took the valve cover off and this 85,000 mile engine is CLEAN, no gunk or anything underneath.

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Think I'm gonna try to piece together some sort of radiator support to use the factory isuzu radiator in my troopy. There really isn't much else I can do until the adapter plate is finished. Everything else relies on seeing where the engine sits

Can anyone think of anything I can tackle in all this free time?

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Reactions: 1

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #29 · 5 mo ago

If anyone uses ih8mud often the link to my thread is here https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-red-rocket-troopy.1205247/page-52#post-14745155 I post much more frequently on there

Reactions: 1

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #30 · 5 mo ago

3

The jake brake that can on the box truck was controlled by a button on the wiper stalk. Is the jake break electronically controlled or vacuum or? Its got a bung on the end of it that looks like some line would connect to. I just think it would be SO DOPE to have an exhaust brake on this troopy.

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How is the power steering on these driven? I'm assuming off of the timing gears somehow. I wont be using power steering in my rig. What would I have to block off or take off to just not run any PS. Dont want to possibly fry anything from running it with nothing connected to the system

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Dougal

· #31 · 5 mo ago

The exhaust brake IIRC had three switches.

on/off on the stalk and interrupts on the accelerator and clutch pedals. So touching clutch or accelerator will flick it out. There will be a vacuum valve somewhere controlled by those switches. The exhaust brake should be handy for helping cold warm-up times.

I saw you asking abount engine mounts. I'd use your Toyota 3B mounts and adapt the Isuzu onto those.

PS pump is gear driven, it just unbolts and pulls out. You'll be able to make a blanking flange easily.

Reactions: 1

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #32 · 5 mo ago

Dougal said:
The exhaust brake IIRC had three switches.

on/off on the stalk and interrupts on the accelerator and clutch pedals. So touching clutch or accelerator will flick it out. There will be a vacuum valve somewhere controlled by those switches. The exhaust brake should be handy for helping cold warm-up times.

I saw you asking abount engine mounts. I'd use your Toyota 3B mounts and adapt the Isuzu onto those.

PS pump is gear driven, it just unbolts and pulls out. You'll be able to make a blanking flange easily.

Thank you for your wealth of knowledge on these engines as always. My current 3B mounts are shot, $140 for a single replacement vs the $30 for the liquid-filled mounts, so I'm going that route due to just budget.

I'll keep an eye out for that vacuum valve next time I'm around the NPR, would be a neat thing to add for sure. Once again thanks for the info on the PS pump. I'll just fab up some cover for it after taking it out.

Dougal

· #33 · 5 mo ago

Theglobb said:
Thank you for your wealth of knowledge on these engines as always. My current 3B mounts are shot, $140 for a single replacement vs the $30 for the liquid-filled mounts, so I'm going that route due to just budget.

I'll keep an eye out for that vacuum valve next time I'm around the NPR, would be a neat thing to add for sure. Once again thanks for the info on the PS pump. I'll just fab up some cover for it after taking it out.

Just keep in mind that Toyota and Isuzu used solid rubber mounts because they last decades. The Isuzu NPR mounts are another great option.

Reactions: 1

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #34 · 5 mo ago

Dougal said:
Just keep in mind that Toyota and Isuzu used solid rubber mounts because they last decades. The Isuzu NPR mounts are another great option.

Fair point, the voice of reason. Not gonna lie it would be a pain to replace them every 50k miles or so.... HMMM now you got me thinking haha

Reactions: 1

Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #35 · 5 mo ago

Got this for Christmas! Would anyone benefit if I scanned these and posted them to the public or are they already out there for anyone to get. I think its BS to have to pay for these old documents

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Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #36 · 5 mo ago

4

I'm currently having issues with the starter motor's frame clearance. The engine just fits in but the starter won't fit... @micheal osoba pointed out the industrial starters that are much more straight as talked about in this thread Isuzu Starter Info

My question is... unless I missed it in the thread, will this 2 bolt starter be able to fit onto my 3 point mounting points? Aswell as the 3bolt starters are 11 teeth while the 2 bolts I find are 9, will the 9 tooth still work with my current flywheel? Below are images of starter clearance issues and everything else along with a video. My electrical system will be 24v.

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Michael Osoba

· #37 · 5 mo ago

Edit: I think you’ll be able to find a 3 bolt, direct drive starter. Let me look for some more threads.

Reactions: 3

joshuak

· #38 · 5 mo ago (Edited)

2

From member Shanker, here:

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other option cut one ear off what you have and rotate.

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Theglobb

Discussion Starter · #39 · 5 mo ago

7

OK LESSON LEARNED!!! Always listen to @Dougal ... haha

Going back and biting the bullets and using the 3B motor mounts, will be much simple than trying to use the liquid filled mounts for my setup, just different than all these old American cars these are swapped in with.

Starter has been ground off! Does anyone know the long-term reliability of this option? I've heard a lot of the chevy 6.5 diesels ripping itself off when owners don't put the 3rd bolt back in cause its hard to reach. Is there much documentation of this working for tens of thousands of miles? Thanks

With the stater ground off it now fits in great!

View of the adapter plates

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Liquid filled mounts

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Stock 3B mounts

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Gridning off the motor mounts

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Starter now that its been ground off!

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