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Discussion Starter #185
What's the latest? Did you get it driving?
Did some rust repair that took a couple weeks, got the fuel tank mounted. Then Xmas, a week in Chicago for work, a week at Disneyland for fun. Not much progress on the Jeep.
I'm going to have a busy couple months, so I don't know how much progress I'll get done. Maybe March I'll have it ready?
 

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Discussion Starter #186 (Edited)
Chicago, California, Denton TX, Austin TX, Tillamook OR, finally home. Only update is 15 trips to hose shop for fittings and hose.
Things accomplished:
Turbo oil feed lines.
Fuel tank mounted, filler/vent attached, fuel lines run.
Tranny cooler lines cut, routed, attached.
Working on:
Power steering lines, reservoir.
Turbo drain return line.
build/adapt/buy some sort of coolant reservoir. I saw a sweet '64 Rambler? in TX with a Rum bottle as a reservoir. Not sure what a Diesel Jeep equivalent would be. Maybe Pendleton Whiskey? My wife wants to put a Pendleton blanket in the back seat, so that makes sense.

Getting close to first fire in frame.
Still to do:
Brake lines, proportioning valve to wheels. Maybe a different MC, and proportioning valve (need to learn up on it now that I've switched from disc/drum to disc/disc)
Heater and lines.
Find AC compressor, run lines.
Belts.
All electrical. I mean all. PO stripped all wiring out; starting from scratch including microsquirt tranny controller, boost, EGT, TPS, water temp, etc. etc.
All Fluids
Sound deadening, padding, carpets, dash missing parts.

Maybe by next Christmas??? Damn this list is daunting.

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #187
I'm too lazy to write words. Here's a bunch of pics of my progress.







I had to take apart one of the brake line unions for the FR caliper because it threads around the engine. When I did that, I noticed that the flange was a single flange. If you click on the pic, you can even see where it's cracked out on the flange. That's why brake lines are double flanged. It takes one more step with the flange tool using double flanging buttons. When I saw this, I removed all the brake lines on the Jeep and every time one end was terminated, there was a single flange. At least now I know they're all solid.


Inside the old calipers!
 

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Discussion Starter #188


Key bezel and glove box button!


This is just a cool angle I saw as I was sitting on the concrete floor hacking away at a donor wiring harness.





Basically, all I need to do is wire the starter, the fuel cutoff, and the transmission controller (and all it's supporting sensors) and I can go for a test drive!
Just need more time and a bit more brain power for the wiring logic.

There's more words with the same pics on my website/blog if you want to kill some time.

-Kevin
 

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Sounds great! I love how much more refined Isuzus are vs their Cummins counterparts.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
How do you make sure that your wheels won't hit your fenders?

One of my co-workers thinks that my back axle tires will hit the fenders. After reading 10+ articles about shortening axles, I got out my jack and lifted one side until the other just started to come off the ground.
Is it safe to assume this tire will not hit the body? Is this a good test?


 

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How do you make sure that your wheels won't hit your fenders?

One of my co-workers thinks that my back axle tires will hit the fenders. After reading 10+ articles about shortening axles, I got out my jack and lifted one side until the other just started to come off the ground.
Is it safe to assume this tire will not hit the body? Is this a good test?


Safe to say it won’t hit or rub on normal road use or mild off-roading articulation. It could still contact it on a bump with some added load in the cargo area though. Remember the tires won’t tuck like that if the whole rear squats at once like it would hitting a bump or dip with a load. I would look into some extended bump stops eventually but it’s definitely not a high priority item for you. Are the factory bump stops still intact? If so you could build a spacer for behind it and attach with longer bolts. Common practice in off road fabrication is to do a test like you did and measure from frame to axle tube on the compressed side, and build the bump stop a little longer than that. How much lift are running?
 

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Discussion Starter #196
No bump stops. I'm sure I could fabricate some. Thanks.

I don't really know how much lift. If I remember right, the PO said it's about 4" higher. He bought a 77 Wagoneer and took the axles and springs. But it looks like there's new shackles and hardware. So I can't say for sure because I didn't have a "before" to compare it to. Just by the seat of my pants, the rear end feels very stiff. All around it feels really stiff. The front only squatted about 3/4" adding the motor/trans/TC. When I sit my 190 lbs on the tailgate, it barely moves, and if it moves 1/2", it's in the tires.

It's just one of those things I worry about, then worry more at home, then start doing research on potential fixes, and end up wasting hours on a problem that's not even an issue.

I guess I'll find out when I have 1000 lbs of load and hit a bump.

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #197
I tried not to get distracted and focus on one task. Making the Microsquirt / DIY autotune Tranny controller work. The techs there said I need a TPS and MAP Sensor to make it work.
It's very hard to find a 9/16 - 18 stainless nut in Portland. I went to 3 different Bolt and Screw shops before I found one. I could have made one on the lathe faster, but whatever.


 

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Discussion Starter #200
Turns out I got bad beta from DIY Autotune. I can use a MAP OR a TPS to sense load. Luckily my work wasn't a waste, the TPS works better. Still waiting for the little USB adapter cord for my laptop so I dive into programming the tranny.

While I wait for that part I'm making headway on the rest of the electrical system.
Things that work: Starter, Fuel cut-off, Alternator Charging, Headlights, running lights, brake lights, turn signals.
The headlights have a nice "understated" presence.


 
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