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Discussion Starter #202
Finally got a little time to put into the Jeep. Took me forever to get the transmission controller hooked up and working.

Good news: Transmission works, shifts gears, seems great right out of the box. I was expecting a lot more tweaking. 4.30:1 might be too low gearing. I'll have to get my tach and speedo set up before I make a judgement. Maybe a windshield too.

Bad news: My test drive was without the hood or a windshield. As I got up to about 40 mph I started smelling coolant. Then I felt the mist of coolant on my face (no hood/windscreen).

I assumed is was my use of scavenged hoses, janky heater bypass, or a loose hose clamp. It looks like its coming out between the head and the block. I don't want to jump to conclusions, but that's what it looks like.
 

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Can’t tell what part of the block the close up picture is but it sure looks like coolant is coming from above the head gasket line and then traveling along that casting line. I’d think it very rare for a head gasket to give out and just spray coolant like that but I’m not the most seasoned mechanic out there. I had a VW years ago that I thought was weeping at the head gasket like this but it turned out to be the thermostat housing gasket on that. Fingers crossed it’s the stat housing, my money is on that. Glad you got the trans stuff sorted. Looking forward to a driving video when you get the windshield in!!
 

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Discussion Starter #205
So coolant leak was just the gasket for the thermostat housing. fixed it.

Called 5 places to get a windshield installed and nobody wanted to do it. Said it's too hard, takes 2 guys all day, blah, blah. So I bought the glass, a new seal, and some goo to seal it up.

First I needed to glue the headliner up as it goes under the seal. Fine. As the glue was drying, I could hear a mouse running around in the headliner. I tried to scare him out by tapping the headliner and I could hear mouse turds bouncing around up there. That's about the same time that I started smelling the wonderful aroma of mouse urine.

I sat there pissed for 7 minutes and realized what needed to be done. That was about 5-6 weeks ago?
Once I tore down the headliner and scraped away all the insulation, I realized that I should do some sound deadening and new insulation.
I also have a brand new carpet to install, it would be stupid not to put sound deadener and insulation there too. Amazon, thank you.
If I'm going to put down new butyl and insulation, I should probably clean the surface rust and paint the floor pans and roof....

1 step forward, 4 backwards.











I'm going to get a pint of POR15 for the roof and floor, then start laying down butyl and insulation. I bought $200 of Noico brand stuff. Not sure if I bought enough, but once the paint dries, I'll start with that.

-Kevin
 

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I use bed liner on the floors. Seals the floor and covers over small pin holes. Use one of the smoother bed liners (Herculiner is too rough and the sound deadener does not like to stick. On top of the sound deadener, a layer of 1/4" bubble wrap insulation (has aluminum foil on both sides - Lowe's or Home Depot) - this gives a little more sound isolation and a lot more protection from exhaust heat.

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Drove to the DMV Friday, drove home Friday night.
Drove to a BBQ on Saturday and gave all the kids rids around the neighborhood.
Drove to my soccer game on Sunday and shot some video.
https://youtu.be/RZgqE-TTHtA

This doesn't really capture how loud it is. Granted, all I have is about 2 feet of downpipe after the turbo. My thoughts of a straight pipe are including a muffler too now.
No shocks, nothing works on the dashboard, lots of leaks, very loud. I was smiling almost the whole time driving it.

-Kevin
 

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Drove to the DMV Friday, drove home Friday night.
Drove to a BBQ on Saturday and gave all the kids rids around the neighborhood.
Drove to my soccer game on Sunday and shot some video.
https://youtu.be/RZgqE-TTHtA

This doesn't really capture how loud it is. Granted, all I have is about 2 feet of downpipe after the turbo. My thoughts of a straight pipe are including a muffler too now.
No shocks, nothing works on the dashboard, lots of leaks, very loud. I was smiling almost the whole time driving it.

-Kevin
Good to hear the brakes work!
 

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Looks good!
 

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Nice ride. I'm an old FSJ guy having owned a 67 J2000, 79 Cherokee Golden Eagle, and a 82 J10. You did some great work with bringing that Waggy back from "The Unfinished Project Zone". Not a lot of those out there on the roads anymore.
 

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Wohoo! Super glad to see you working on this again buddy. I took a winter hiatus to do my XJ TDI swap, it’ll be back to the Waggy for me in a few weeks. Hope you’re well!
 

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Discussion Starter #215 (Edited)
Rework costs 3x

Jonathan,
Thanks for the props man.

4 leaks are my nemesis right now. I think I have two licked. The transmission and D300 transfer case.

The next one is driving me crazy. I bought a 95 Astro Van Hydroboost used from a junk yard for $70 and I think it's leaking and needs a new seal kit.
The only other leak is in the rear brake line from the MC back to the rear axle. The PO rebuilt them with 36" lengths and unions. When I was adding the HB I realized that the PO did all single flares on the lines when they should have been double flares. I really noticed when I saw a cracked single flare on one union. So I pulled every line and re-flared them the right way. It was fine until I replaced one of the unions going to the rear with a tee and added a brake switch. I re-flared the ends 3 times and it's still leaking.

I can buy a reman hydroboost for $100-150 or a seal kit for $20. I'm wishing I would have not been such a penny pincher the first time and bought a reman or new unit.
Even the seal kit reviews tell people just to buy a reman unit and don't bother trying to reseal.
I also bought a full spool of rear brake line and I'm just going to replace the whole length with one line and eliminate all the unions.

That's what I have to look forward to. Basically tearing down 1/2 my brake system and rebuilding it. Again.

-Kevin
 

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Somehow I missed this thread, must have been the move to the new house that kept me off the forum.
Now that my wife is the new owner of a 89 wagoneer I've been drafted to put a Diesel in it so will be watching to see how it goes.
Great build so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #218 (Edited)
I now have a tachometer.

1. Added "W" signal wire to alternator.
2. Bought a Dakota Digital DSL-1E ($125 Amazon, but I got the added Hall sensor that I didn't end up needing, so the price is higher than what you need).
3. Fed the output signal to the Tach in my China copy Defi Style 10 sensor multi-gauge.
4. Calibrated RPM to the DSL unit with a cheap Amazon hand held RPM sensor with reflective tape on the front crank pulley.

So I got that all dialed in and calibrated. Then changed the signal feed to my tranny controller so it has the correct RPM calibrated. It was having a hard time with the "W" signal.

I looked up the correct idle speed and it's 650 RPM, but my engine is idling at around 900. Also it kind of wavers around, up and down. So I found the idle set screw and backed it off and realized that the linkage from the pedal doesn't the little triangle lever drop down... So I disconnected the linkage. The linkage didn't have enough throw to adjust the idle down. I remembered that I had set all this up not knowing diddly about how it worked before I put the engine in the Jeep.

As I was doing all this trying to dial in the idle to exactly 650 RPM, it seems like the magic spot was exactly where I started. WTF? My toes are 1" off the ground, it's a tough reach in there because my hood doesn't open very far and my wrist accidentally pushed another cable coming from the fuel cut-off solenoid and the idle bumps up as I'm trying to adjust it. There's two cables coming from the magic covered fuel shut off solenoid that I installed 10+ months ago. I had kind of forgotten about that 2nd cable and what it was for. I'm starting to remember from my foggy mental notes that it's some sort of high idle cold start that releases once the engine is warm. Maybe that's why there's 3 coolant temp sensors on the thermostat housing? One is for this "high idle" solenoid? Might need that next winter. I disconnected the 2nd cable and reset my idle to exactly where it was before I started messing with it.

To make a short story long. I'm an idiot, and I spin my wheels adjusting things to try and fix a problem only to find out it's all because I'm trying to fix phantom problems that I made myself months earlier.

Oh! The best part is that I realized that my accelerator pedal mashed into the carpet was only getting 70% of it's available throw on the IP. I adjusted the cable and now it's 0-100%.
I didn't have time to go for a test drive, but that's today. Yay.

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #219
I filled the tank with diesel at a gas station for the first time. 27.6 gallons. My math told me the tank I built was 30 gallons. Cutting it a little close, and I might have to re-calibrate my fuel gauge. It was on the last dash, but not floating on "E".
Now that I have a speedometer/odometer and fuel gauge that are working, and mostly accurate, I'll be able to see what kind of fuel economy I'm getting.
I hope to get over 500 miles on a tank, which would be near or over 20 mpg.

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #220
First refill of the fuel tank!

602 miles traveled
30.48 gallons added
19.7 mpg

All random driving but no highway more than 5 miles at a time. Need to work on my fuel gauge calibration. Showed 1/2 tank this morning, luckily I wrote down the miles at the first fill. Doubled checked it and drove straight to the fuel station. I thought I built a 30 gallon tank. Must be a tiny bit more.
 
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