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Discussion Starter #1
I've been lurking around this forum on and off for quite awhile, but recently got excited about the idea of swapping an Isuzu into a Suburban for a family hauler. I've been hunting around lately for a family hauler (wife, two kids, two dogs, and maybe some furniture or something...), and have been sorely disappointed with the options that are out there. Even the Cummins-powered Rams aren't reliably in the 20s.

So, I stumbled across the swap kits at IsuzuDieselSwapper.com, and started looking around for Chevy and GMC vehicles to convert. I've found a bunch of nice-looking Suburbans people are unloading for cheap in the area, and I haven't been able to shake the idea since.

I'm going to buy the engine, first, and overhaul it if necessary. I've found two options that look attractive to me:

First, I met up with a guy I found on Craigslist (I'd post the link, but I can't, yet) who has a '92 NPR that he can't start. I don't know if the engine is OK, because he has an electrical issue and can't start the engine (or turn on lights, etc...). It doesn't help that he knows nothing about diesels... Say I spent some time on this and we got the engine started. What am I looking for to judge engine condition? If I know I need to overhaul it, what is a fair price to offer him for the engine, intercooler, etc? I'd be pulling this out of the truck in his driveway....

Next, I found a running engine with 122,000 miles on it just across the border into Ohio (again, I'd link to heavytruckparts, but I can't do that, yet). The ad is misleading, as it says $1550, but he wants $2k total including the core charge for the engine. He says the engine is a complete unit with the starter, turbo, alternator, etc. and they can hook it up to a stand and run it for me. Again, what is a fair price to pay and what should I look for if the engine is being run?

Are there any suggestions on where to find a good Isuzu engine in Indiana?

Thanks!
Mark
 

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I have looked for the past few months in CA. "Core" engines not running but with all parts are selling for 500 - 1,000. Running motors are 2,000 - 4,000. I am not a expert just what I have experienced. I am found running trucks for as low as 2500 and think I am going to go that route.
 

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How many miles on the 92? I gave $1k for a complete 89 motor with 240k, I would not have gone any higher.

If you can find one of the 6.5L diesel Suburbans you'll have a nice head start.
 

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take your time....you will find something eventually. i looked most of the winter before finding a good runner with all the goodies for less than 1500.
seems to be easier to find whole trucks here in the midwest.

"endeavour to persevere" LOL
 

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Personally, I'd opt for a complete truck. With a complete truck you get all the misc. goodies that will cost you an arm and a leg if you have to purchase separately, such as filters, brackets, wiring harnesses, special connectors, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yikes! I just fixed my Location information. It appears I created my account when I still lived in Colorado Springs >3 1/2 years ago!

Thanks for the help, guys.

Mark
 

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The 4BD1T is likely the best bet for economy as the '2T is an IDI engine.

It's fairly simple to "Hot Wire" either as the pump is mechainical, the shutdown mechanism is remote, via cable, so you can unhook the cable and shut it off by hand.

Of course that all assumes there is nothing really wrong with that engine (92).

Either way, plan on a chrage cooler, it's not worth the effort without it, no matter which you have.

There seems to be better economy with a twin setup, from what I read, but it would take a while to pay for the extra charger and plumbing, of :(course with $4.10+/ Gallon here at the moment, that would come sooner rather than later. :(

The biggest benefit I've seen to the compunds is the wider available powerband.

The system I've been toying with, in planning, is a HX30W over an HX40.

It would seem that the HX30 at least needs the wastegate ported, or an external gate, to keep the combination from choking out somewhere around 2700 RPM, or so I read, here and elsewhere.

Good luck and good hunting. :)
 

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whichever engine you choose your gonna need to tweak it a bit for a suburban. I've got the 4bd1t engine in my fj60 landcruiser which weighs about 4K and i have stock gears and 31x10.5 tires, the engine is SLOW. Not as slow as the 2f but i'm not anyones friend in stop/go city traffic.

i put a ranger OD in front of my stock tranny so my shifting is slowed down a bit because of the extra rotating mass in front of the tranny as well as the dual flywheel assy. If i had the extra cash and could have afforded the NV4500 the shifting would be a bit quicker and would have less issues. Diesel tims isuzu to nv4500 swap is a very nice option and you avoid two flywheels.

make sure you have a good final drive ratio in your suburban to drive this engine on the freeway. Not sure of the tranny you have maybe the 700r4 or a later computer controlled tranny?, i don't know what the final drive gear is nor do i know your diff gears or tires size but these engines like to cruise under about 2200 rpms. at 70mph i'm at about 2300-2400 rpms. I need some bigger tires!
I get about 23mpg around town, i'm very pleased with the engine.

with your suburban you could probably fit the inline 6bd1 isuzu engine and would be much happier with the power in such a big vehicle. However i'm unfamiliar with the tranny options you would have with that engine.

keep an eye out for a rusted out vehicle up north. I got my engine for about 1400 shipped wiht 150K on it. my HOA would not like me putting a parts rig in my yard.
 

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whichever engine you choose your gonna need to tweak it a bit for a suburban. I've got the 4bd1t engine in my fj60 landcruiser which weighs about 4K and i have stock gears and 31x10.5 tires, the engine is SLOW. Not as slow as the 2f but i'm not anyones friend in stop/go city traffic.

I don't understand why you are are having a speed problem.Are the gears 4.11 or 3.73? Your truck should be quick, much quicker than stock, in my experience. Our Scout II weighs nearly 4k with winch and 4bd1, and it is only limited in quickness by the less-than-optimal steps of the NV4500. Even with 3.54 gears, it would smoke the 345 V8 we removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, again, for the help, guys!

I don't actually own a Suburban, yet. I know I can find a BUNCH of them for cheap, though! I'm going after finding and overhauling the engine, first.

I will likely go for the 1500 series 4x4 Suburban from the late 90s so that the gearing is better. With 3.42 gears, a 0.70 overdrive in the 4L60E, and 245/75R16 (stock size, I believe, ~30.5" diameter) tires, rpm should be in the mid 1800s at 70 mph when the converter is locked up. 4.10 gears aren't right for this application--unless I get a screaming deal on a 2500 and can then afford to swap gearsets on front and rear axles.

Does anybody feel that the beefier 4L80E is a necessity behind on of these engines?

I need to hunt around on this site for recommended inter...er...chargecoolers, and turbo setups. This is all about economy, so thanks for the tip to stick with the 4BD1 for direct injection, Erik.
 

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whichever engine you choose your gonna need to tweak it a bit for a suburban. I've got the 4bd1t engine in my fj60 landcruiser which weighs about 4K and i have stock gears and 31x10.5 tires, the engine is SLOW. Not as slow as the 2f but i'm not anyones friend in stop/go city traffic.

I don't understand why you are are having a speed problem.Are the gears 4.11 or 3.73? Your truck should be quick, much quicker than stock, in my experience. Our Scout II weighs nearly 4k with winch and 4bd1, and it is only limited in quickness by the less-than-optimal steps of the NV4500. Even with 3.54 gears, it would smoke the 345 V8 we removed.
gears are 3.73.

I'm pretty sure my cruiser weighs a bit more than 4K but i've never been on a scale with it. should probaly do so. It's quicker than the 2F but even with the stock h42 tranny i have a very undiesel friendly gap between 2nd and 3rd.

I doubt the added rotating mass between the dual flywheel assembly paired with the ranger overdrive unit help my situation at all. Shifting is about as slow as i would think shifting can be.

I have a hard time telling you just how much quicker the 4bd1t is than the 2F as i don't have 0-60 times nor 1/4 mile times on either. It is noticably quicker than it was, come summer time i'm really going to be interested in seeing how it tows my boat compaired to the old engine set up.

My prevoius daily drivers were a 300whp boosted delsol (about 2400lbs) and a 150hp '02 Triumph Daytona 955i stripped down to a speed triple (about 400lbs) so this vehicle would be a slug to me even with 500 hp.

In a suburban i just dont see how a 4bd1t in stock form would be fun in traffic. If you lived out in the sticks and didn't deal with any city traffic it would be fine.
 

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I just put a 4BD1T in a 2003 Tahoe. Whatever you do, do not, I repeat, do not put in a 4L700 trannsmission. It was my biggest mistake. I spent the money and got a rebuilt 4L60E and a stand alone controller and it's a world of difference. I can keep up in traffic and it's fun to drive. MPG is around 20, it has a 3.73 rear end.
 

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My prevoius daily drivers were a 300whp boosted delsol (about 2400lbs) and a 150hp '02 Triumph Daytona 955i stripped down to a speed triple (about 400lbs) so this vehicle would be a slug to me even with 500 hp..
Those would tend to skew your perspective a bit. When weather permits I DD a 01 ZX6R and don't even bother trying to go fast in cars, it just costs too much to reach the same performance.

The rest of the time I DD an old Explorer, it weighs 4500lb with a full fuel tank and me in it, at 160hp it's nowhere near spirited but it's adequate and keeps up with traffic no problem. A 130hp diesel should not any worse off in a vehicle of the same weight.
 

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I've just purchased a 99 NPR with a 4HE... doing the research I've found that the BD models have a pressed in liner. you have to remove them with a air hammer and chisel... where as the HE has an o-ringed liner that is easily removed and installed. the emisions on the HE seems easily removed and they are a larger displacement... more power potential.

I'm swapping this into a 99 s10 sport truck/lowrider project. going for mileage of course but with looks and functionality of air suspention.

I'm looking for a place to find the transmission overdrive ratio so that i can calculate the correct ratio for the blazer rear end I will be rebuilding. any inputs????

check out my threads..
s10 forum or street source... search D^3... cant add a link yet...
 

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found it


astr on ih8mud is awesome

1st - 2.950
2nd - 1.530
3rd - 1.000
4th (OD) - 0.717
Reverse - 2.678

search 4he1tc into fj62 for more info.. helps alot with the electronics.
 

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I've just purchased a 99 NPR with a 4HE... doing the research I've found that the BD models have a pressed in liner. you have to remove them with a air hammer and chisel... where as the HE has an o-ringed liner that is easily removed and installed. the emisions on the HE seems easily removed and they are a larger displacement... more power potential.

I'm swapping this into a 99 s10 sport truck/lowrider project. going for mileage of course but with looks and functionality of air suspention.

I'm looking for a place to find the transmission overdrive ratio so that i can calculate the correct ratio for the blazer rear end I will be rebuilding. any inputs????

check out my threads..
s10 forum or street source... search D^3... cant add a link yet...
Here is a bunch of info on the 4HE1 and the AW450 Automatic http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62.html and here is more: http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?12002-Isuzu-4H-Series-Introduction
 

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I've just purchased a 99 NPR with a 4HE... doing the research I've found that the BD models have a pressed in liner. you have to remove them with a air hammer and chisel... where as the HE has an o-ringed liner that is easily removed and installed. the emisions on the HE seems easily removed and they are a larger displacement... more power potential.
4H series engines certainly have a lot of potential, but the 4B liners don't need a hammer or chisel to remove. A puller made from a plate and threaded rod works fine for me. Reinstall is freeze, block of wood and gentle tapping.
 

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It would seem that the HX30 at least needs the wastegate ported, or an external gate, to keep the combination from choking out somewhere around 2700 RPM, or so I read, here and elsewhere.

Good luck and good hunting. :)
If the HX30 can work as a single turbo on the 4BD1 then there's no need or reason to start enlarging wastegates. The smalll turbo in a compound set passes the same volume as it would as a single turbo on the same engine. It's higher pressure and higher density, but the only way the turbo knows that is through higher shaft torque.

The small turbo thinks it's feeding the same old engine as a single but with higher atmospheric pressure. The large turbo thinks it's feeding a larger engine as a single.

The specs for the HX30 show max flow of 0.33 kg/s (44 lb/min) which is heaps for a single on our engines.
 
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