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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I liked that idea of yard signs. I had a few laying around from my business and one fit perfect with a little trimmin. I put it in front of the condenser.Covered most of it but the outer edges. Will keep you posted…Heading on a 2000 mile round trip to the Midwest for thanksgiving this wk.. fuel price hurts…
 

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I liked that idea of yard signs. I had a few laying around from my business and one fit perfect with a little trimmin. I put it in front of the condenser.Covered most of it but the outer edges. Will keep you posted…Heading on a 2000 mile round trip to the Midwest for thanksgiving this wk.. fuel price hurts…
Have a good trip , drive careful, maybe take snow chains.
Fuel prices , yes they are terrible & by design!
Something for everyone to check out ,
,diesel performance products.com
 

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Just for conversation sake, you don’t suppose cold air forced through the engine compartment is enough to impede the engine from reaching operating temp?

Winter fronts are plenty popular with truckers around here, maybe it’s just consumerism at its finest. :unsure:

Reference pics:

I felt an obvious difference of in cab heat when I did something similar to pic bellow.
I think the benefits are mostly air intake and intercooler. The radiator is minor. Reducing flow through the engine bay depends on how closed in your engine bay is.

My old work-car had steel heater pipes which went from the front of the engine to the heater and back with only short rubber flexible sections. I wrapped those in exhaust bandage and that made a big difference.
But turbocharging that car made the biggest difference of all. It didn't have an intercooler so you're feeding the engine hot air. Warms it up really fast when you start driving.

On my other car (tdi) I used to block most of the intercooler (which was also blocking the radiator) and that helped. But I fitted an electric PTC heater into the heater-box (factory option in northern europe) and that did even better. The higher electrical load (80amps max) would get the engine warming up and the car defrosting within minutes.

On my ute (pickup) I installed an electric pre-heater with circulator pump. It runs for about 1.5 hours in the morning (cord is on a timer) and heats the top of the engine and heater core to 60C. I'd like to do the same (and heated seats) on my 4BD1T powered 4wd.
 

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Why even mess with the plugs ? Do you not / is there not a 1/2” NPT in the head right behind the oil filter ? To draw hot water from for the heater .
I've got a 4BD1T, not a 4BT. The Isuzu has the heater pipes coming off the water-pump and thermostat housings at the front of the engine. The bypass is also between the water-pump and thermo-stat housings. The original trucks shut off the heater water flow. But my vehicle runs a full-flow heater so that bypass is redundant. I only kept some flow to make the system easier to fill/bleed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So I covered about all the condenser with a sign works great.. heats up a little faster, it amazes me how long it takes the thermostat to open, u know when it does the temp gauge goes down. i don’t think you are goin to any Better unless you put a hotter thermostat in.. I would like to see 190 to 200 degrees on the temp gauge. I think these engines would run even cleaner, maybe even more mpg. I just checked my last half tank of mostly city and got 22.3. I was happy. I used to only get right at 20 but switching exhaust housing and turbine I believe helped.I feel my engine runs fairly clean for a single turbo, with fuel maxed out.
 
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