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Grasping at straws trying to find information and it led me to you guys.
I bought a 1960 IH Metro that previously had the 91 4bd2tc swap done. I'm completely green to a diesel and having a hard time figuring out exactly why certain things are the way they are on the swap. The manuals in the links here seem to have expired and I keep coming up short everywhere else.

I've been trying to reach out to a diesel mechanic that could help me out but all the local people I've met are not much more knowledgeable than myself or are afraid to touch it. The shop I bought it from bought it from someone else and never really dug into it so they haven't been much help either. I'm fine with putting it in someone else's hands to figure out but I get the feeling it's not a project for 'just any shop'.

You guys seem to know your shit and I'd love for someone to school me or point me in the right direction so I can figure her out and get her running smooth.

Thanks in advance.

130429
 

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Thanks man. I'm in Virginia.
It wasn't starting. I replaced the battery, choke cable, and starter. It started and ran 3 times now it won't turn over. Thinking the new starter is bad and I'm replacing that.

I don't understand exactly how it should be starting either. Really just need a crash course on the basics of how this engine operates and basic troubleshooting tips so I'm not an idiot when things don't work right.

When it was running... the vibration is so bad it backed the screws out of my grill and rearview mirror. I'm guessing that's a motor mount issue. But it doesn't seem to be tuned properly either.

How I was told to start it was to pump the button on the top left 2-3 times, pull out the top right pull, and turn the key. Push in the pull to cut it off.
130430


Seems like the button on the left is a solenoid running from the battery to the alternator. Which I'm not sure why pushing that a few times before starting would do anything at all. Also it looks like the choke cable (which I just swapped) is having a harder time pulling the lever than it did when I installed it.
130431
 

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Oh man, where to start. Diesels don't have chokes, what that cable likely is for is a manual fuel shut-off. I would guess (only a guess, depending on how it is hooked up) that it has to be pushed in to run and pulled out to stop. If you were instructed that it is hooked up to run in the out position, go with that since you had it started already.

The button you were told to "pump" is likely for the glow plug circuit. I would try holding it in for 10 to 15 seconds, release it and crank the engine over. You should be able to test if the button is for the glow plug circuit with a 12 volt test light.

Once you get it running, and your starter issues sorted out, check the idle speed. To low of an idle can cause excessive vibration. Check and see if revving it up a bit causes it to even out. They do vibrate more than gasoline engines.

The stickeys are your friend, read them!

If all else fails and you can't get it running to your satisfaction, sell it to me, I really like it!
Jeff
 

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I'm sure that van has been on this site before. Can't remember who built it.

I'd say that top right pull/push is fuel cut. Pull to allow fuel, push to stop fuel. It'll go by cable to a lever on the fuel pump.
I'd say the top left button is glow plugs which are used to heat the cylinders before starting.

Engine not cranking I'd check power to the starter first. Also see if the starter wire from the key is getting any power.
Engine running that rough is probably a fuel blockage or air in the fuel. There are filters to check.
There are also valve rockers to adjust under the rocker cover. Clearance is 0.4mm (15 thou) but only when they're fully released. You have to rotate the engine to get to them at different points.
 

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Did you know those Detroit Diesel engine were also used in the landing craft and personnel carriers of the Normandy Invasion of WWII. Cool piece of history. That tech has a very long service life Kodi nox !
 
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