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Selling 4bt & 6bt parts to all of N.America
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Stay away from electric fuel pressure setups or you will be sorry you spent good money that went out the window. Mechanical all the way. Glowshift has been mentioned but they are junk in the long run. Isspro, Autometer & as Char mentioned Hewitt are all good.
If you are going to run a gauge in cab, yes it is recommended to run a snubber & cab side of snubber, run antifreeze. Just make sure you get every little bubble of air out. If staying under the hood, the cheapest & best setup is to use a simple needle valve before the gauge.
 

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I concur with Mark's comments - I've chewed up a Stewart Warner electric fuel pressure sender and have my fingers crossed on the Glowshit gauges - the fuel level gauge is pseudo-random, might be the flimsy plug-in connector on the back of the gauge or maybe the aftermarket fuel tank sender (Made in the People's Republic of Tinpanastan). Backup plan is to zero the trip odometer with every fill up.

It is a tractor - go with the under hood
 
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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Thanks Russ & Char ! Russ when l asked who sells this setup , l ment the gauge & snubber. Char that is a nice gauge, their web site price $130.00. But gave no details , is it mech.,or electric , they showed no snubber, is it a stand alone , or require dash mount ?etc Dorothy will, — E-Mail them Monday (xlj*&) ON the soda question . I would be outside working the tractor , will it make any diff as to cleaning wheather l use the By-carbonate or change it to carbonate , or what is the danger of using By-carbonate? WELL the 2 above entry’s did not appear until l posted, Dorothy says its because l did not refresh after opening the page ! SO edit Thanks to both of you Russ and Mark! Looks like l won’t buy your :LOL::ROFLMAO:gauge Russ! Now Mark you have just started educating my on (SNUBBER) , apparently before is isolated from after.. &. How much press should a lift pump deliver, l have had to put the one back on that was supposed to be bad, because its replacement from Napa started leaking at the hing point of the thumb lever. I will be getting new one from Agkits in April, when l go to Baton Rouge
 

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On that Hewitt gauge, their site doesn't show quite as much detail as it used to. The gauge is pure mechanical. Only electric part is for lighting. Comes with an install kit but they do recommend an isolator (snubber) which is not included. Don't know their part # for it but they could tell you. Of course a dual gauge would require 2 or them. These gauges are aircraft rated which is why they aren't super cheap. They come in pressure ranges from 15 PSI which is what you tractor would use up to 150 PSI. Here's a detail sheet for for the single reading model. The dual is the same except it had 2 inputs. Accuracy of their gauge is 2% which is very tight. You'd probably need to contact them for more info. I believe most other high end gauge companies use electrical senders. Like I said, these guys make things the old fashion way. Here's that detail on that single gauge. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/10-05478-td.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Sometimes "free" advise is not worth the asking price... :rolleyes:
Russ my statement about not buying your gauge should have said, the same one you purchased and find that you are not sure you are happy with it.
Although the advise I get here is considered “Free” I truly appreciate all the help this site and everyone on it has given me. Has made me a lot more confident in dealing with this “monster” in my shop... (my wife’s word)...
I feel this free advise is worth its weight in gold..
Thanks everyone
Robert
 

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Robert,

No apology needed, I understood what you wrote, I just could not resist making a "wise-ass" remark.

Lots of good folk on this site.

Russ
 
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Discussion Starter #128
That is correct Russ, l believe that even those who sometimes loose their cool are basically good folk ! On the gauges you chewed up, did you have snubber in line? I HAD thought that the filters would act as snubber? Now l never heard of snubber in this regard, dont know how they function, but apparently, if one can fill the line between it & the meter with antifreeze, one side is separate from the other . Now in the electrical application , does the electrical part come separate or is it part of ? ADVICE , now in a manner of speaking there is none that is free, it cost someone, either book time , or school of hard knocks , & some people are not willing to share, but GOD bless those who will !!
What fuel pressure should l expect from a good lift pump ? __ - _
THANKS Char for the added info on the Hewitt gauges, we will be contacting the company !
Q #1 anyone know the advantage of using sodium carbonate, instead of by-carbonate OR
Disadvantage of by-carbonate ??
 

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I first used 0 -15 PSI electric gauges from Stewart Warner. I did not use snubbers then (I did not know about them). It was the senders that failed (went open circuit). Part of the problem was the piston pump was running 17 to 18 PSI - which put both the sender and the gauge off the end of it's operating range.

The snubber that I posted appears to be a dense filter, the diesel and antifreeze are going to mix.

To the best of my limited knowledge, You need an isolator under the hood, the isolator having a diaphragm to physically separate the fuel from the antifreeze. I've seen them in the Summit Racing catalog, but, never looked any further.

GloShift recommend using a snubber with Cummins diesels, so I included it in my order.

General hookup for an electrical fuel pressure gauge goes as follows:

FUEL SIDE:

FUEL FILTER HOUSING > THREADED ADAPTER > SNUBBER > PRESSURE SENDER > WIRE (SOMETIMES A WIRE HARNESS) > FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE

NOTE: Some senders are two wire and others are one wire - the one wire senders need to ground to the block (or fuel filter housing).

CAB SIDE:

SWITCHED + 12 VOLTS > FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE

GROUND > FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE

INSTRUMENT LIGHTS > FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE


The GloShift came with 2 wiring harnesses, one to the sender and another for the in-cab wiring - a neat feature is the ability to daisy chain the in-cab wiring.
 
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Discussion Starter #130
Thanks Russ ! I dont know how l missed your post of the picture of the snubber. (Last enter pg6) I did not see it until after l had posted last night, but l was so sleepy l could not keep my eyes open, l said look in the morning .
So what you are telling me is - the S W -0-15 gauge was destroyed due to 18psi pressures , that is 20lb in 15lb bag.. that is why l asked , how much press from stock lift pump , also so that l would know of current pump & have future reference. As Char said , - duel reading will quickly help determine true source of trouble. Somewhere l think l read that poor fuel supply will or could cause inj-pump damage ?? & dont want any of that !
If your knowledge is LIMITED - mine is really in the dark !
Right now l am having inj-pump issues. When it was rebuilt they had to give it full advance , & when l look at the above mentioned vidioes , the view l am supposed to see when l look in the window l do not see, in fact that (G ) is about 90*(according to the videos pictures) from what l see ! SO is it possible that instead of the inj-pump sending fuel to #1 it is sending to #3 & following sequence ??
 

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Papa, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is a very mild chemical and really has very little use as a washing agent. I keep a box in the refrigerator and freezer to absorb odors but that or use in cooking is about its main uses around the house. Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) is a mild detergent chemical. Not sure what use it would have in cleaning a cooling system but it is found in water softening chemicals. Not sure what your purpose is for one of these. There are chemicals for removing calcium and rust build up. One such chemical is CLR found in the grocery stores around the USA. This is an acid based chemical and you'd need to be careful in using that in a cooling system. Another very strong chemical is sodium hydroxide (lye). That one you handle with care. Great for removing oil and grease but must be handled with caution. Commonly found in drain openers or oven cleaner. Can cause damage to your body if you get it on you. The shop next to my house used to rebuild engines. They kept a vat filled with sodium hydroxide solution where they cooked engine parts to clean them. After the cooking they steam cleaned the parts and they looked like new. Removed all the paint also. You wouldn't use that on anything that is aluminum because ti will attack it. I'm not a chemist but studied chemistry in high school and college. That was ages ago though.
 

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Papa,

I will some one else comment on the proper output pressure for a diaphragm lift pump (Rotary pumps and in-line pumps require different pressures). I am currently running electric Edelbrock diesel pumps. Gives me backup at a flip of a toggle switch.
 
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Yes, in parallel, separately, at the flip of a toggle switch. Each has a check valve. This morning, one read 7 PSI and the other 8 PSI.
 
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Discussion Starter #135
The snubber has a male end and a female end - it screws into the sending unit. I am using this unit from Gloshift:


There are other snubbers out there that should work just as well.

My Gloshift fuel pressure gauge has worked OK for me (it is in the cab of my truck), BUT (in my opinion), it is not rugged enough for use in a tractor or backhoe.
Well it has been quite sometime since I have put anything on hear , but l have been following the ones that come to my email , so l will try to fill in the blank . Since this PLANdemic started & not knowing when we could even come to the USA l did not order anything , in fact l let it slip my mind , until l just read through this again , but the wife says that for the short time l plan on keeping the tractor the expense is not justified !
Now on the overheat problem ! I turned the inj-pump as far advance as it would go, then backed off 1/8” , have worked it some but not when real hot & the temp climbed up to 215, I have flushed the system twice , 1 with commercial flush & 1 with soda & did not seam to get much . I did not replace the water-pump, & would that make any difference?? I am in Ohio right now , went to a Napa store to-day to check on one , as their price is $57.00 & Case wanted $111. & THEIR # WAS J2866278, but no one else can cross -ref it . The Napa # was 4118 line code TFW , I took some measurements on the Napa pump if they would help, on the pump was stamped Gates - D19019 & 41181
I will be here till Saturday , fly home Sunday
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Well it has been quite sometime since I have put anything on hear , but l have been following the ones that come to my email , so l will try to fill in the blank . Since this PLANdemic started & not knowing when we could even come to the USA l did not order anything , in fact l let it slip my mind , until l just read through this again , but the wife says that for the short time l plan on keeping the tractor the expense is not justified !
Now on the overheat problem ! I turned the inj-pump as far advance as it would go, then backed off 1/8” , have worked it some but not when real hot & the temp climbed up to 215, I have flushed the system twice , 1 with commercial flush & 1 with soda & did not seam to get much . I did not replace the water-pump, & would that make any difference?? I am in Ohio right now , went to a Napa store to-day to check on one , as their price is $57.00 & Case wanted $111. & THEIR # WAS J2866278, but no one else can cross -ref it . The Napa # was 4118 line code TFW , I took some measurements on the Napa pump if they would help, on the pump was stamped Gates - D19019 & 41181
I will be here till Saturday , fly home Sunday
Add,, the last e-mail l have is 6/25 about a Durango
 

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Have a good flight home
 

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Papa, your Case water pump part number has too many digits. It should be J286278 which is Cummins part number 3286278. That particular part number I believe has an open impeller on the pump. Some later part numbers changed to a shielded design. Gates sells a shielded type under their part number 41181. The newest Cummins part number for that open design is 5473238 and those are darned expensive at around $200. That one doesn't have a shield but the impeller appears to be very heavy duty. On some the impeller may even be plastic now. The Gates one can probably be found under $40.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Thanks Russ & Char for the quick response,
Sorry about the error in the part # , my l pad was low last night & would not keep up , & would print in spurts l had to go back & correct many spelling errors but l missed the extra 6 in the part # , THANKS ! The gates one you show is the one that Napa has & is shielded as in the picture, so apparently it will work?? Will the shielded version also give better water circulation ?? Thanks again !
 

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What that shield is mainly about is protecting the block should the pump fail. Should the pump go bad the impeller could chew up the block a bit plus leave bits and pieces in the coolant system. The shielded type is more protective. Not sure that the flow rate is any higher. If any were, that newest Cummins part may be because it's used on the later model 6bts. There are more than one type pump that was used on these engines. For example, pump number 3802970 was a shielded type with a special hardened pulley where 3802971 was the same pump with a regular pulley. There were pumps with the smooth pulley and some industrial models had lipped pulleys. And there are probably models with a higher flow rate but most don't list that.
 
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