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Hey Gents, I have decided to undertake the project of repowering my 11 ranger with a 4bt. I put a flatbed on it and am aiming to make a bulletproofish vehicle for daily driving and all that. I will be boxing the frame and doing the suspension stuff in a different thread when I get to that point. Drivetrain, ive secured a nv4500/bellhousing/xfercase from a 90s something ram.

Which brings me to the engine itself. I picked this up from a guy local to me the other day, he tells me it was remaned by a company now defunct out of Wisconsin. I was able to turn the crank so i know its not seized, but thats all the farther I got. I am hoping some of the guys who know more about this engine than me itt could point to me what else I will need to get this thing alive again. Pics attached, let me know!
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It looks new as it is. So how many miles does it hav on it.
Is it a defective core returned to that Defunk company . Or is it a pull out with 20 or 30 K miles it.
I've picked up a lot of gas motors back in the days. From our Chevy Dealership.
Those motors I'd just pull them apart & start looking . Keep the Good & replace the bad..
Back in my days I might put 2 or 3 together.
.... SO I Guess I'll take it apart & see what's bad.
 

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You need to get the adapter, flex plate and starter. At that point you could attempt to start it. I would have a oil pressure gauge on it somewhere. You couldn’t run it long without the cooling system. (30 seconds) There’s a danger of cracking the head. If you rig up a basic circle cooling system, you can run it for ten minutes even without a radiator. If that all goes well, it’s probably a good engine.

Note, when starting it like that on some kind of stand, make sure it won’t fall over when you rev it or shut it down. (It can torque twist a bit.) Also, remember to put 12volts to the fuel valve on the injection pump before cranking.
 

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Looks like it was steam cleaned and krylon'd after it was pulled from a wood chipper.

That is a very early waterpump and those exhaust manifold bolts are real early production as well. If that thing was rebuilt those parts would have been replaced.

I would assume it's a core and teardown.

The Dodge harmonic balancer and tach sensor mount are sure out of place too.
 

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Let me see if I can tell you some info about that engine. Some is good and some not so good. First off, if I'm reading it correctly, the serial number is 44434157 which is a CPL 0858. That was the most common road use 4bt so that's good. It still has the old H1C which would be something you'd want to replace for any performance much over the original 105 HP. That engine most likely came in a Ford E350 van due to that top mounted turbo and the spec sheet indicated it came with a vacuum pump. An HX30W would be a good choice and would use the same oil line and drain as that one. You could also use a Super HX30W but you'd need to change some of the oil fittings. On that side of the engine you are missing the thermostat housing assembly and the water inlet. Those are very common parts and easily obtainable. I can give you part numbers as to what came on the engine originally if you want them. If you plan to up the HP a bit you wouldn't use that air crossover pipe from the turbo. You will need an intercooler and a bit of custom plumbing. This isn't a negative thing, just something you need to know. Looking at the front of the engine, you are missing the fan hub assembly. There is a 6bt harmonic balancer and crank pulley on there. The water pump is also an industrial design. Nothing really wrong with either of those items. You do not have any alternator mount or belt tensioner. You will need both of those items. The alternator mount will depend on what alternator you use. On the back of the engine you don't have any type of transmission adapter. You you will need the adapter, flywheel, bolts, and starter for whatever transmission you plan for. Now for the injection pump side of the engine. Number one thing that is not great is you have the wrong injection pump. Part 3908193 is an off road industrial pump not really meant for highway use. It's not designed to react to changes in turbo boost. Most references, what few there are, seem to indicate it was for a generator. The correct injection pump was part 3917530 which is Bosch part number 0 460 424 055. That is the first real negative I've seen. You will also notice an oil fill port on that side of the block. That was not on the engine originally. One of the valve covers had a oil fill cap. This engine looks like someone has pieced it together from parts of various engines. There are other injection pumps you can use in place of the OEM one and not spend an insane amount of money. For example the list price of a new one that came on the engine is $5240.25. That would sure get your attention quickly. A rebuilt pump without a core is around $2000. Your engine was built in December 1989 and that injection pump doesn't have one of the smog control items found on some later model. If you get to the point of changing that pump there are some things I can recommend that you watch out for.
 

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Papitt, I've been driving diesels since 1979, and did a lot of studying before I ever bought one. As for parts, I'm not in the business. I've just accumulated a lot of info in my research over the years. Always try to give sound advice. Have read a lot of posts on other web sites and lots of it was pure junk. Bad info stays around forever and I try to avoid that. Mess up every once in a while, but I'm only human.
 
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