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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to Holsett online and called one of the authorized distributors, and ran into an issue when trying to purchase one. I was told that I needed a model number or an identification # of some sort or they would not sell me one for general use, as the turbos are for specific applications. I went through the stickies and looked for this info, but was unable to find anything.

Does anyone have a model number for either of these model turbos that have successfully used one on their motor? Prices were $1300 for the HE221 and from $600 to $1100 for the HX30w.

I want to replace my H1C, and any help would be appreciated.
 

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With the supercessions it's going to be important to find someone who's up to date with them. @NiTeC has posted a lot of useful info and pictures before.

With the HE221's there were 5, 5.5, 6 & 7cm turbines with compressors ranging from cast to machined from solid billet. With the HX30 there are 40, 44 and 46mm compressor wheel inducer sizes. Your power goals and altitude can dictate which version will fit best and then see what is available.

I have a HX30 Super (6cm turbine, 46mm compressor) assembly number of 2835278
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
With the supercessions it's going to be important to find someone who's up to date with them. @NiTeC has posted a lot of useful info and pictures before.

With the HE221's there were 5, 5.5, 6 & 7cm turbines with compressors ranging from cast to machined from solid billet. With the HX30 there are 40, 44 and 46mm compressor wheel inducer sizes. Your power goals and altitude can dictate which version will fit best and then see what is available.

I have a HX30 Super (6cm turbine, 46mm compressor) assembly number of 2835278

Thank you. I'm using a barebones 4bt with a 3200 governor spring. I live in South Alabama, so I'm driving at sea level and non freezing temperatures. No hills for 500 miles. I'm a complete novice when ot comes to turbos, so I'd assume most of those housing sizes don't rely matter. I just want a little more pep.
 

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You will find the 44mm HX30W will probably be the cheapest way out. Has the standard T3 exhaust mount so not adapter needed like the HE221W. Only comes with a 6cm2 turbine housing. Has a 3" air intake which is the same as the H1C and uses the same oil line connections as that turbo. In addition to the turbo you will need an air outlet elbow assembly. This turbo has a Cummins part number but was never used on a US engine. It is strictly an imported model but is a genuine Holset. One part number is 4040353. Retail is around $1200 but you can find them priced all over the board. Here's one listed for $525. Holset HX30W 4040353 4040382 One part number for the outlet elbow is 3918686. There may be others. Uses clamp 3918951 and an O ring seal 3918952. Price for the complete assembly is around $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You will find the 44mm HX30W will probably be the cheapest way out. Has the standard T3 exhaust mount so not adapter needed like the HE221W. Only comes with a 6cm2 turbine housing. Has a 3" air intake which is the same as the H1C and uses the same oil line connections as that turbo. In addition to the turbo you will need an air outlet elbow assembly. This turbo has a Cummins part number but was never used on a US engine. It is strictly an imported model but is a genuine Holset. One part number is 4040353. Retail is around $1200 but you can find them priced all over the board. Here's one listed for $525. Holset HX30W 4040353 4040382 One part number for the outlet elbow is 3918686. There may be others. Uses clamp 3918951 and an O ring seal 3918952. Price for the complete assembly is around $100.
Thanks Char! You always know best! I do wonder, is Benzforce a reputable dealer? I was going through an authorized because I didn't want to get a fake. If you trust Benzforce, I will pribably order that exact one.
 

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Yes, I would think Benzforce is a reputable dealer. They specialize in parts for Mercedes Benz engines. That turbo is a genuine unit. They are built in China by an authorized Cummins manufacturer. There will be freight on top of the price so you might contact them to find out how much it would be. You can usually find that turbo in the $600 range or a bit more. Probably the best unit for a 4bt for general use. Should you ever desire to increase the power significantly, it is the ideal turbo for a twin setup. That's when you want to wander up toward the 300 HP area. They also offer a straight outlet option which is a custom made part for $39 including clamp and O ring. You could always use that and buy a 90 deg silicon hose to face it forward and save a bit of money. Both it and the factory part I listed are 2.5" outlet. That's the only size available for the standard HX30W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I would think Benzforce is a reputable dealer. They specialize in parts for Mercedes Benz engines. That turbo is a genuine unit. They are built in China by an authorized Cummins manufacturer. There will be freight on top of the price so you might contact them to find out how much it would be. You can usually find that turbo in the $600 range or a bit more. Probably the best unit for a 4bt for general use. Should you ever desire to increase the power significantly, it is the ideal turbo for a twin setup. That's when you want to wander up toward the 300 HP area. They also offer a straight outlet option which is a custom made part for $39 including clamp and O ring. You could always use that and buy a 90 deg silicon hose to face it forward and save a bit of money. Both it and the factory part I listed are 2.5" outlet. That's the only size available for the standard HX30W.

Thank you! I'm just putting it on a 60s C10. I don't want to turn up the fuel or anything. I put 2.73 gears in it and am nv4500, and I am going for a slow diesel sipping setup for highway travel. I figured a smaller turbo would be better for performance without sacrificing efficiency.
 

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Check out the Diesel Tuff site for the turbo and plumbing.
 

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In general, the idea on turbos is think smaller, not bigger. A base 4bt will have between 105-130 HP depending on injection pump. Maximum stock RPM will be around 2500. Most guys change the governor spring to somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000-3200 RPM. That's to help with gear shifts as the NV4500 doesn't have the greatest gear ratios for a 4bt. Once up to speed it's ideal to cruse at around 1700-1800 RPM which is where the peak torque is on these engines. That will also be the area for best fuel economy.
 

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I'll second Benzforce as a reputable seller. Ordered an hx35 and it was here within the week even over the holidays and then went back for valve springs, glow plugs and a timing chain and was yet again all here within a week even though the second order was placed on christmas eve.
 

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Robsim, it will be interesting to see how your swap works out. The main factors that will affect your fuel mileage will be the vehicle, the driver, and engine tune. Your vehicle doesn't have great aerodynamics but it is what it is. Learning to drive a lower powered diesel takes practice. Diesels take off a bit slowly but build power as the turbo kicks in. With practice you learn to use that to your advantage. As for engine tune, there can be some adjustments that will help. Advancing the injection pump timing a bit can add both power and fuel economy. Sounds weird that you can get more power and better mileage at the same time but it can happen. Minor adjustments to the injection pump are things you can test and see what works to your advantage. In general, if you hit 25 MPG that would be considered good. A few and I mean very few have squeezed out 30 MPG. We have one member who put one in a 32 Chevy who has push the 40 MPG area. That is an engine that is in perfect tune with a very light weight car. Years ago, one of the magazines did a test to see how good they could get the fuel mileage on a Dodge Cummins DRW pickup. They were able to break the 30 MPG point with that big, heavy truck. That was with a 6bt and an automatic transmission. One main secret was no speed over 55 MPH. Keep the engine speed at its ideal point most of the time and you get the best it can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It would be interesting to see fuel consumption with that high of ratios?

Ed in CO
Ed,
I ran the final gear ratio calculations, and with the small 28" tires on the truck, I need the 2.73 rear gears in order to hold 70mph at 1700 rpm or 80mph cover to peak torque. 3.08 gears would be ideal the hit closer to peak torque at 1800 (1880 @ 70) but I already have the 2.73. If it's too sluggish, I'll shell out the dough, and get the 3.08s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Robsim, it will be interesting to see how your swap works out. The main factors that will affect your fuel mileage will be the vehicle, the driver, and engine tune. Your vehicle doesn't have great aerodynamics but it is what it is. Learning to drive a lower powered diesel takes practice. Diesels take off a bit slowly but build power as the turbo kicks in. With practice you learn to use that to your advantage. As for engine tune, there can be some adjustments that will help. Advancing the injection pump timing a bit can add both power and fuel economy. Sounds weird that you can get more power and better mileage at the same time but it can happen. Minor adjustments to the injection pump are things you can test and see what works to your advantage. In general, if you hit 25 MPG that would be considered good. A few and I mean very few have squeezed out 30 MPG. We have one member who put one in a 32 Chevy who has push the 40 MPG area. That is an engine that is in perfect tune with a very light weight car. Years ago, one of the magazines did a test to see how good they could get the fuel mileage on a Dodge Cummins DRW pickup. They were able to break the 30 MPG point with that big, heavy truck. That was with a 6bt and an automatic transmission. One main secret was no speed over 55 MPH. Keep the engine speed at its ideal point most of the time and you get the best it can do.
Thanks Char. I have an 85 k5 with a 6" lift and a 6.2l diesel and a th400 4x4 and 33" tires. Somehow I've managed 17 mpg in a big heavy truck, but I have the absolute lightest foot on the planet. I plan on dropping the C10 after the motor install, if I have the clearance of course. It seems a lot more aerodynamic than the k5, and with a turbo motor, smaller tires, lighter, and closer to the ground; I honestly think I can hit low 20s with mixed city highway travel. Thats the plan anyway. I'm going to drive it as is without messing with the pump. When the pump ends up needing a rebuild, I'll have it turned up then and get the better performance. I replied to someone earlier that 3.08 gears would be ideal with the 28" tires, but I already have the other gears. If it's to sluggish or not hitting high enough RPMs, I'll get the 3.08s so that I don't bog down the motor.

Either way, getting rid of the 289 and 3 speed powerglide will be the best improvement. 6 mpg sucks, and it is screaming for mercy at interstate speeds.
 

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One problem you may encounter is that TH400. Not an ideal transmission for a 4bt. I was wondering why the high gear ratio differential. Dodge did the same with the 6bt and offered a 3.07 ratio until they had a overdrive transmission. The TH400 doesn't have a lock up torque converter and the one for a 6.2 may not have the right stall speed for a 4bt. The GM P30 vans came with a 4bt connected to a TH475 and it was mediocre at best. One mod you will need to make is the governor in the injection pump. The VE pump needs a 3200 RPM spring to help with transmission shifts. Otherwise, the engine hits a brick wall around 2400 RPM. About the only GM automatic anyone has used with some success is the 4L80e which is a computer controlled version of the TH400 with OD. 20 MPG may be about the best you can expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One problem you may encounter is that TH400. Not an ideal transmission for a 4bt. I was wondering why the high gear ratio differential. Dodge did the same with the 6bt and offered a 3.07 ratio until they had a overdrive transmission. The TH400 doesn't have a lock up torque converter and the one for a 6.2 may not have the right stall speed for a 4bt. The GM P30 vans came with a 4bt connected to a TH475 and it was mediocre at best. One mod you will need to make is the governor in the injection pump. The VE pump needs a 3200 RPM spring to help with transmission shifts. Otherwise, the engine hits a brick wall around 2400 RPM. About the only GM automatic anyone has used with some success is the 4L80e which is a computer controlled version of the TH400 with OD. 20 MPG may be about the best you can expect.
It's a good thing the TH400 is staying in my Blazer. I have a 2wd Nv4500 from a d250 that's going into the C10! I was just mentioning the fuel mileage I've managed to get with a giant brick woth a non turboed motor and no overdrive.
 

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Are you sure you have a NV4500? The D250 came with the Getrag 360 5 speed. The NV4500 didn't show up until the 1994 Dodge 2500.
 
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