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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up a 4bt with an a pump, the question is how does the linkage work?

The inner lever seems to control the throttle/rack and the other on mine is locked out with a plate.

What I'm wondering is can you add a shutdown solenoid to this pump? Or is the throttle/shutdown all in one?

Attempting a swap in my f150 but I've only dealt with ve and p pumps.
 

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The Bosch A pump is common on industrial application engines. There is a pump shut down solenoid for those just like the P pumps. Below is a parts list for Cummins option FV9182 which is for 12 volt operation.

1. 3900626 M6 x 1.00 x 12 Flange Head Bolt (2 req)
2. 3929456 Hex cap screw (2 req)
3. 3930590 Solenoid Bracket
4. 3932529 Solenoid
5. 3934021 Lock Nut (1 req)
6. 3934022 Plain Washer (1 req)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here's my pump, the inboard lever seems to control fuel and if I push it all the way rearward the engine will shut down. The other one is locked out with an adjustment screw and I've taken it off and its spring loaded but very hard to move by hand.
 

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OK. That lever on the outside of the pump in you 1st photo is the throttle control. That little mess of parts attached to that lever would not normally be there. This engine was probably set up to run at a fixed speed like on a generator. You should remove all that and have just that vertical flat lever with 2 bolt holes which you the throttle control. The one on the side next to the block is your shut down and it appears to have an arm of some type attached to it. Can't tell if that is just a mechanical or the solenoid type shut down. In the diagram below part #13 is your throttle control and part #6 is the shut down lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, the outer lever that's locked out right now Is very hard to move like its acting against a spring in the pump. The inboard lever I moved while running and the engine revs with it and moves freely, if its moved back against the stop itll shut the engine down.

Is the locked out lever only moveable while the engine is running maybe?
 

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I wouldn't think that lever would be extremely hard to move. It is the throttle link to the governor so moving it with just your fingers may not happen. If this is going into a road vehicle you probably need to get rid of those parts locking the throttle. Do you know the original application for the engine? If you look on the end of the pump assembly there should be a tag for the governor. Most likely it is an RSV type like in the photo below. I would assume that throttle control may have some spring that returns it to the idle position. Also, on the end of the governor cover are 2 adjusting screws for idle. Here's a video telling how to adjust those should you have any issues with idle speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This engine was in a generator and yes it's a rsv governor. I'm gonna try firing the engine and then moving the outer lever slowly, not sure which was its sprung. Towards idle or full tilt.
 

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If it was a generator engine it has basically only one speed. Around 1800 RPM. Those locking devices have it tuned into that speed. If it had been on a welder/generator it would have two speeds, idle and 1800 RPM. Does it have a standard solenoid shut down device or is it something different? Generators often have a special electric control box.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Didnt have the normal shutdown solenoid, had a big electric box that was nearly the same thing hooked to the inboard lever. Like I said it has a rsv governor and I was able to rev and shutdown the engine with the same in board lever, not sure if the lever was controlling the fuel flow and that's why the engine would change rpm or if its connected to the rack.

I'm guessing the outer lever was pulled to a set rpm so when the inner lever is pulled forward by the electric solenoid it would go straight to that rpm and stay there, that's why they had to put a plate to pull the throttle without needing an external control cable at the control panel.
 

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That electric control box would have been something added by the generator manufacturer. You have 2 options on controlling the shut down. One would be install the 12 volt solenoid parts like in the diagram. Second option would be a manual cable which is what a lot of farm equipment diesels had. Probably a $150 for all the electric set up parts plus the relay hook up and about $14 for a manual cable you can get at Tractor Supply. Lots of diesel farm tractors had manual shut downs. If you wanted one a bit more heavy duty, many military diesel trucks had manual shut down cables. One less electrical problem to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here's a couple pics for yall, the flareside itll be going into and the setup.

Flareside had a 306 and aod that i had built up but always had intended on swapping in a 4bt. Picked up an nv4500 for 500 bucks off cl and my friends dad is a jet mechanic at corpus christi international airport. They had this 4bt power ac unit for cooling parked jets, the generator had gone out on it so I picked the engine for 500 bucks as well. 1999 4bt with very low hours!
 

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Should be a nice project. Generator engine can be good if they've been properly maintained because they've only been operated at 1800 RPM. The RSV governor isn't a problem but you need to remember how it reacts. When you're cruising down the road on level ground and hit an incline, the governor will automatically increase fuel to compensate instead of you having to push the accelerator pedal. Sort of like having cruise control. It tries to maintain engine RPM. The A type injection pumps are not bad but there is limited info for increasing performance. You may want to change the governor springs to a higher RPM depending on what's in there now. Your governor assembly may be the same as a P pump. 3000 RPM springs are commonly used and that can help with gear shifts. The NV4500 doesn't have ideal gear ratios for a 4bt but a lot of guys use it. Could also possibly adjust pump timing to gain a bit of power if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Went with a nv4500 because I driven with a zf5 and they dont shift as nicely. Also they have a ton of other issues. This was the most cost effective setup being that the zf5 adapter kit was nearly 3k, way too much for a trans that doesnt shift as well. My 12 valve and nv seem to be a good combo in my other truck. For now I'm just going to get this swapped then I'll try to find a p pump setup to swap in.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After burning the shit outta my arms this evening removing rivets for the drivers side sbf motor plate I plopped in the 4bt! Sits nicely and looks to have plenty of clearance in its current position. Still need to maybe find a different trans crossmember that doesnt have a hump that sits upward and then center everything on start in motor mounts.


Stoked!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I planned to do a bunch of work to my A pumped Dakota with a NV4500. Got it running and it gets 26mpg stock, so I've just driven it now for 9 years...

Could you maybe take some pics of your throttle setup? I'd like some ideas and there is a serious lack of info/pics about a pump linkage. I'm a picture learner kinda person.
 
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