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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first Jeep and first 4BT transplant, but it wont be my last.

A couple questions for those that have been here before.

1) my 4bt came with the chevy auto adaptor, the auto flywheel and ring gear. I was thinking of leaving the Jeep standard trans in for now. Cummins western Canada wants $1700 for a stndard flywheel and ring gear,
(TOO MUCH).
My question is will a 6bt flywheel and ring gear work on a 4bt, then I can use a chevy bellhousing on my 5 speed?

Mt 4bt was intercooled, what have others used for an intercooler?

Does anybody have drawings of motor mounts they have made?

The down pipe out of the turbo will have to have a flange on, the pipe clamps on the back of turbo. Where can I find one that I can weld on to my down pipe.

I think that will do for now, but ther will be more questions coming.

MR. Duck
 

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Yes they will. I put a Dodge Cummins torque adapter and torque convertor on my 4BT. I used a 1993 Dodge intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes they will. I put a Dodge Cummins torque adapter and torque convertor on my 4BT. I used a 1993 Dodge intercooler.
I want to use my 5 speed standard trans until I break it. that will give me a little time to find a 700r4 and have it built without being put in the poor house
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would like to find a pair of RUBICON dana 44's but I havn't had much luck, without breaking the bank
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So since my first rookie questions alot has happened.
I gutted the drive train of the Jeep, got rid of the stock diffs and went completly nuts.

First I found a good used 700r4 out of an early 90's 3/4 ton chevy for cheap.
Then I scored a NP241-C for a song.
I ran a cross a guy that had fron and rear diffs out of a 79 FS Bronco, complete with Front springs, buckets, shock towers and radius arms. Then the fun started. D44 front Ford 9 inch in the rear 4.10 gearing

There still work to do; The driveshafts are coming from Tattons in SLC, The adapter ring for the converter is being machined, I have to install a hydroboost for the brakes and steering, cut a hole in the hood for the air intake, find an intercooler that will fit in front of the rad and then try and figure out just what kind of glue the Jeep engineers were on when they wired this thing.

Follow this link to a ton of pics - too many for the forum.

http://photoshare.shaw.ca/gallery/f.fraser/
 

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IMO the rubi axles are not worth using. Why?, well the R&P is D44, but the tubes are D30 size, the knuckles and u-joint are also D30 or 35 size. So it really is a cheapened up version of the D44. I think your FSB D44 is just as good if not better even considering the two piece axle tubes.
As far as the wiring, mine has been very simple, no issues at all.
 

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IMO the rubi axles are not worth using. Why?, well the R&P is D44, but the tubes are D30 size, the knuckles and u-joint are also D30 or 35 size. So it really is a cheapened up version of the D44. I think your FSB D44 is just as good if not better even considering the two piece axle tubes.
As far as the wiring, mine has been very simple, no issues at all.
thats what i can never figure out that everyone wants rubi axles there a weak 44 centersection and maybe 2 or 2 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch thick tubes. they have dana 30 tubes,c,u joints, and eveything else. i would go with some dodge dana 44 axles from a ram pickup maybe a 2500 gas not sure mit have to narrow them if your into that.
 

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mr duck. whats hitting the hood is it the intercooler
 

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The water/air cooler or intake horn on a 4bta, or the intake tube on a 4bt are what hits the hood. Depending on how high the engine was mounted a 1-2" body lift ought to solve the problem.
Steve aren't the Dodge D44's passenger side drop? I thought they were.
Getting back to the wiring, I just used the 4.0L oil, and temp sensors and adapted the threads to fit the 4bt. Starter wiring needed to be split at the starter terminals, Alt I just cut off the Mitsubishi style plug and spliced a Delco style plug onto the alt wiring. I used the fuel pump circuit to operate the fuel solenoid. Thats about it.
 

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The water/air cooler or intake horn on a 4bta, or the intake tube on a 4bt are what hits the hood. Depending on how high the engine was mounted a 1-2" body lift ought to solve the problem.
Steve aren't the Dodge D44's passenger side drop? I thought they were.
Getting back to the wiring, I just used the 4.0L oil, and temp sensors and adapted the threads to fit the 4bt. Starter wiring needed to be split at the starter terminals, Alt I just cut off the Mitsubishi style plug and spliced a Delco style plug onto the alt wiring. I used the fuel pump circuit to operate the fuel solenoid. Thats about it.
yes i think there passenger side drop wasnt thinking i change mine to passenger side. i had to cut my intercooler ports down and have them tiged they worked out nice. a body lift is proberly the easyest thing
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's running but never done. had to put in a 2 inch body lift and sill had to cut the hood. mounted the engine too high. used full size bronco diffs out of '79 dana 44 in the front and a 9 inch in the rear. 700r4 tranny with a np241.
still working out TV cable issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #18

Ground clearance---not bad, need a skid plate
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's tight, but the bump stops are set up so the axle and center section won't hit. My major concern is the front drive shaft yolk beside the oil pan sump. I have been pondering a chevy dana 60 (pass drop) a 14 bolt in the rear and 4 links. I still havn't taken this out for any real wheeling so thats in the future.
 
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