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Discussion Starter #201
Clutch slave cylinder adapter and line came in. Looks like a winner. Havent had time to install. We will get a rainy day soon...
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Discussion Starter #202
Finally got enough time to button up the clutch linkage. I went ahead and bought a new slave cylinder-why put an old one back on if everything else is new, right? Turns out it is a F150 style slave cylinder, and a quick run of the number shows 1983 F150 as a match. Fluid is in but i have to get someone to help me bleed it, so thats not done yet.

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Discussion Starter #203
I've been tinkering with my dash and gauges a bit too. I moved over all the gauges from the Fed Ex truck except the fuel gauge, as the sending unit for the jeep is a different ohm range (0 to 90) than the van was. The rest of them are used to this motor and should be very happy.

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I hope bleeding this goes well, getting the air out of the loop "might" be a challenge. Can I suggest something more like this, with a bottom outlet port..

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This is a 1994 Ford F150 clutch master cylinder - It required using the 1994 pinned plastic line and a custom made actuator rod to use with my 1986 clutch pedal assembly. In your instance, more effort than making due with the top outlet port.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Had a little time over the 3 day weekend to work on the jeep. I bought a stainless steel piano hinge for the dash so it will tilt out for wiring. I had to drill the holes out a little bigger for the pop rivets I'm using. Had 7 of the 8 done, bit was getting dull, pushing pretty hard on the Harbor Freight 3/16 bit, and it snapped. When it broke the drill jumped left into my finger and buried what was left of the bit in my pointer digit. Missed the bone! From my favorite movie, Mountain Men: "it smarted a mite."

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Discussion Starter #206
I got a lot done on the exo-cage Sunday. Everything symmetrical and tacked in place. Compound angles on the fishmouthing. I dont have a notching die, so I'm still using the old school hole saw fixture. It works well.

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I have one of those HF tubing notchers. I bought mine when they first came out 15+ years ago. IIRC, I paid $30. It's worth every penny. I've done that same drill bit trick before drilling out stainless steel pop rivets, but mine was closer to the tip of my finger. Since then, I only buy name brand drill bits - usually Norseman/Viking.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
I have one of those HF tubing notchers. I bought mine when they first came out 15+ years ago. IIRC, I paid $30. It's worth every penny. I've done that same drill bit trick before drilling out stainless steel pop rivets, but mine was closer to the tip of my finger. Since then, I only buy name brand drill bits - usually Norseman/Viking.
I'm a slow learner. Got a lot of scars on my fingers to prove it!
 

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Discussion Starter #210
The super hot humid weather has driven me back inside to my air conditioned shop. Why didnt I do this 20 years ago???
Got some work done on the dash and all the roll bar stuff is going to the professional welders tonight after work.
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Time to do some wiring and hammer form that aluminum transmission cover for the floor. Dennys Driveshaft is 2 weeks out on my rear driveline, and I hope to have it to the point that I can bolt that driveshaft in and drive it out of the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #211
Got "most" of the wiring completed. Working on gages right now. The oil pressure sender and the temp sender each have 2 wires coming off of them...one goes to "S" on the back of the gage, is the other one for ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Charlie nailed it. Gauges are from the Fed Ex van and it did have warning lights in the dash panel. So one wire to the sender and the other one went to the warning light. Now to sort which one is which. Me thinks a little trial and error will figure that out quickly! Thanks Char1355!
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Yes, "s" is for the sender to the back of the gauge. I was referring to which wire went to the "s" terminal. Trial and error last night and I have working gauges. I just crimped a butt connector on the end of the warning light wire and called it good.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
With the electrical pretty much completed (Ok, I still have a rats nest of old wiring and the old fuse panel to remove under the drivers side of the dash, but I hate standing on my head to work on something) I have turned to body and paint. This thing is very solid. I have one spot 2" square I cut out to weld a patch in on the passenger side..Drivers side floorboard is scaly, but I dont think there are any holes. I bought a 110 lb. media blaster at Harbor Freight yesterday hoping it does well blasting the inside so I can apply black Raptor Liner to the passenger cabin and the bed. Says I need to apply a 2K Etching Primer for best results before applying the Raptor Liner. I used a Nason self etching primer on my 66 when I did it, and it has held up perfectly. Anyone have experience with a different product you'd recommend? Outside will be the new Toyota Gray. You can see the clearance holes I cut in the hood where the intake hose rubbed. I have new style Mustang hood louvers that will cover those. They will allow a little more airflow out of the engine compartment as well.
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Discussion Starter #217
Started on the body. Really solid foundation. I'm no body guy-I like greasy hand and wrenches. Patch welded in and thin layer of bondo on passenger side. Blasted the cab inside to prepare for 2K primer and raptor liner. Will do the same to the bed but ran out of media. Im using 3060 coal slag and I went through 200 lbs doing this much. Had no idea how much I would use, or I would have bought more at $12 per 100 lbs.
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Discussion Starter #218
Nason self etching primer followed by Black Raptor Liner. Turned out pretty good. Once I get some media I can do the bed area. Then I'm down to roughing up the outside with red scotchbrite pads and applying a dark gray enamel.

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Discussion Starter #219
Spent saturday morning blasting and prepping, and Saturday afternoon priming and applying Raptorliner.

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