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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Sunday I installed the new rear driveshaft from Denny's. Nice, quality part. Had to source a new yoke for the rear of the transfer case as a CV joint does not bolt up to a non-cv yoke. Not much info about the Dana 21 transfer case out there. I can tell you that a yoke for a Dana 18 / 20 with ten splines fits perfectly. Neapco p/n 2-4-4061x for a 1310 series cv joint.

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
Finished the Raptor lining of the cage parts. Looks like paint on the jeep itself in 2 weeks. Gotta step away from it for a bit to get some other stuff done.

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Back to piddlin with the jeep. Getting closer to paint, but I have some detail work to do first so as not to worry about scratching it.
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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
Decided to put a bent piece of treadplate on the body sides for 2 reasons. 1) it fixes the issue of all the holes I have in the body sides from the original side steps and 2) it gives me a point to tie the rock sliders to for extra stout stability. Everything is bolted, not welded, and Ill use all stainless hardware. I feel like the front hoop is better supported this way as well. Not that I "plan" to use it.

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
Yesterday I finish welded the nerf bars. E6013 rod and everything is 1/4 or 5/16 thick. Maybe the worlds strongest side protection! Deer season is behind me so Ill be back piddling with this pretty regularly again.

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
I'm back! Took a few months off to get away from the project and work on other things. I started sanding on it so it will get paint pretty soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Sanding, sanding, and more sanding. 220 done and starting on 400. Painting is definitely the easy part. This is why it took so long for me to get to this. I do not like body work.

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
3rd coat applied last night and I unmasked it this morning. Turned out pretty good for a hillbilly paint job.

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Side armor, nerf steps, roll cage hoop and cage bolted together, Cummins decals on hood, and fender flares. Not much left. Oh, and then there's brake lights, ground wire on alternator, windshield, drivers seat installed, bleed brakes, bleed clutch, fuel gauge wired, wiper motor wired, and fan motor wired. I'd like to have it done and ready for a local parade by the end of July.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
Looks like I started in July of 2019 on this project. I told you I wasnt fast. Still not finished, but I can hear a large lady warming up...

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
Not done, but close.

Fuel gauge is going to require a different sending unit. Needs 0-90 ohms.
Still have to bleed the clutch
Drivers seat frame needs a little paint on one area
Have to order a front driveshaft
Going to cut my brake line and put in a pressure type brake switch. Just dont have room for the pedal type the jeep had with the hydroboost linkage.

I'll be driving around by 4th of July.

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Looking good, a couple of small comments (based on recent actual experience with modifying my1962 Volvo):

1. I expect you will get tired of the exhaust exiting in front of the rear wheel. Out the back is quieter and you will smell less diesel fumes. It will work just fine for now.

2. A pressure type brake switch requires quite a bit of hydraulic pressure to turn on. I can see my 3rd brake light (HMSL) in the rear view mirror, I was amazed at how much pedal pressure was required to light up the brake lights (made me quite nervous in Phoenix, AZ traffic...). Also, replacement pressure type brake switch are made in the People's Republic of Tinpanistan by 3rd grade dropouts... Folks on the HAMB website report many failures. Again, a pressure type brake switch will get you through vehicle inspection.

Russ
 
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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
Well, we are driving!

Drove it about 15 miles Friday evening to town and back for 4th of July picnic. No issues other than still working a little air out of the clutch and brakes. Not charging. Transmission grinds a bit when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.

Drove it about 30 miles Monday. I put an actual ground wire on the new alternator. Tried exciting it. No go. Its junk. New one ordered from Rock Auto, which is where this one came from. Transmission still grinds going from 3rd to 2nd if we are not slowed to almost a stop. I can double clutch and avoid it, but shouldnt have to. Im looking for a newer NP435 as of right now, or may see about getting this one rebuilt. I think finding a newer one with a Dana 20 or NP205 behind it would be the thing to do as then my Dana 21 will be gone as well. Not that its a problem. I certainly dont need low gear right now and it has a ton of power on hills. I can pull smoke by getting on it on a hill and it accelerates nicely. Low range would be a nice option for some purposes.

I still do not have a fan setup. I will likely put a puller or pusher electric one with a temp switch just so it has one, but the gauge never got above half way. keep in mind this is 4th of July weekend with temps around 90, and yes, I idled it too.

It drives and handles great. Suspension is stiff on the back end, and I aired the back tires down a bit. Steering is great. Brakes are awesome. No oil or coolant leaks. I do have a drip off the bottom of the injection pump to track down. I think my front springs will need some supplementing with more driving as it looks more nose-down now than it did sitting static. I'm thinking air bags. I could pull a spring leaf out of the rear to soften it up too and that may level it...

Noise is not horrible. It is almost all engine noise, so I may check into some dynamat or other off brand sound deadening material for the firewall. Cant really hear the exhaust. My wife says it about the same as my CJ6 with the 225 V-6 and dual exhaust.

Overall, it is a great success, and I am getting a lot of compliments. Had to expect a few bugs. No biggies.
 
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