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95Z28A4, pretty sure that one in the photo is a 12 valve unit from a 94-97 with the wing cut off. You're correct that the 24 valve looks similar but sticks straight out instead of having the forward angle. There is a lower profile forward facing tube that came on some 4bts but I haven't found a part number for it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I cant use the word fabricated, cause, well I didn't. I see people calling that fabrication, but c'mon, its just not. I did drill two holes in a piece of 2-1/2" square tubing and mount 2 Anchor 2513 motor mounts to make a transmission mount. Between this rubber cushion and the factory (new also) transmission mount, It should take some of the crude vibrations out of it. I do have the hydro motor mounts as well...
Engine is sitting at 4 degrees-as close as I can get it to the 3 with this setup. Driveshaft length will be great on both ends. Now to pull it back out, rotate the oil pan, weld up the motor mounts, paint the frame, and put it back in for good.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Well, I know its been a while. Like I said, this is a winter project, and we had a burst of warm weather, so I worked outside. I have still been accumulating parts. I got a high pinion Dana 44 for the front in 3.54, an 8.8 with a locker for the rear in 3.55, new seat belts, a scrambler half cab and bulkhead, hard full doors, half doors, radiator, and some nice 17" tires in 35" tall variety. I need wheels. 17" with 5 on 5-1/2" pattern and as much offset as possible to offset the wide axles. I picked up another toy that I put a new carburetor on, rewired, new valve cover, and have to install a new seat on and its ready to sell. Anyone heard of a Toro General? If you're old enough you may remember the Pennzoil commercial with Arnold Palmer one on of these. Pretty hard to find I expect. Its got a Ford 6 cylinder, 223 cu in and runs great. I think its a 1954. I'll get back on the jeep soon.
 

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I need wheels. 17" with 5 on 5-1/2" pattern and as much offset as possible to offset the wide axles.
If you're looking for OEM wheels, the 2000-2001 Dodge 1500s were available with 17x8 alloys with 5x5.5 bolt pattern. The 2001-2004 Ford F150s were available with 17x7.5 alloys with 5x5.5 bolt pattern. You'll have to check the bore size. In most cases, I've found OEM alloys to be more robust than aftermarket aluminum wheels. In addition, replacements are usually easy to get and often prices are reasonable. For example, I purchased a set of five 16x7 1998 Grand Cherokee alloy wheels in very good condition from a salvage yard in 2010 for $215.
 

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The 2001-2004 Ford F150s were available with 17x7.5 alloys with 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
They switched to 5x135 after 96 and 6x135 later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Interesting. So Dodge half ton wheels will be 5 x 5.5 pattern and are available in 17"? Didn't know anything still ran that pattern. The beauty of those wheels is that they will have lots of offset, where it is hard to buy aftermarket wheels with as much offset as i'd like. The axles are full width-no I will not narrow them-so I'd like the offset to help narrow it back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I got sent home from work yesterday. Slow day, so at 3 my other agent said why don't you just go home-so I did! Cold rainy day, so perfect for some shop work. Pulled it all back out. Got the pan dropped, cleaned up and ready to rotate and reinstall. New gasket installed with Indian Head on pan side. New oil pickup installed for rear sump location (for front axle articulation clearance. Lower end is very clean inside. However, I found this half circle object that "looks" like a thrust bearing in the bottom of the pan. I have looked on the Cummins Quickserve site and I cant find it. What is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I sent the pic to a friend and he says it is the thrust bearing. He "thinks" they were 3 pc originally, but the site shows 1 piece. Is it just worn to the point that 1 side fell off? Anyone seen this before?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Found this old thread. Answered all my questions.

This was on my '91 4BTA.

I noticed a lot of play of the crank shaft when you pushed the clutch (maybe a 1/4"?). Turns out it is a common problem that Cummins came up with a replacement part/cure for...

If you leave the stock part in there, as long as it is in tact, it will probably be fine but keep in mind that it can come apart. If you notice a lot of crankshaft play then this is the case. You can either preventatively fix the problem or do it under your truck. Not a big deal but it involves removing the oil pan. If you have the problem (lots of crankshaft play) and leave the problem unresolved for too long, especially with a standard trans, it can cause your crank to wear into your block and possibly majorly F things up for you...

Unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of the new replacement bearing before I installed it, but there is a pic of it installed. The old bearing, the #4 counting from front to back, is a three piece, with the washers on the side (that prevent lateral movement of the crank) which are pressed into the main bearing. The replacement is a single one piece so it cannot seperate and have the same issue happen again... With the old piece, the side washers ("thrust washers") become unpressed from the main bearing, and this allows for the excess play. If your engine has never been rebuilt, it probably has the older style bearing. This is the only bearing of this style in the whole engine and the only place where this issue can ocur.

It is also good preventable maintenance IMO, the bearing I think is less than $30 from Cummins. You can get from either Cummins or Case or a slew of other places. Most cummins dealers know the problem well. I imagine it is also a common problem for earlier 6BTs as well. Not sure when Cummins redesigned the part...

I also have still to this day never rebuilt an engine and this was my first time replacing a bearing, if it matters. Super, super, easy...

Directions:
Pull oil pan. In bottom of oil pan, you should find the thrust washer if you had excess crank shaft play... Undo cap the cap of bearing number 4 [number #3 in photo below, secured by #4 in photo ]. Remove old bearing, both the top and bottom half of the bearing.

Your new bearing will be both top and bottom pieces. I personally dunked the new bearing in oil for a couple minutes hoping that it might somehow absorb oil but doubt it actually did. Most importantly is making sure that you **DONT INSTALL BEARING DRY. Make sure there is oil there and on the bearing.**

Then I replaced top and bottom pieces. Top pieces (the troublesome one) needs very gentle persuasion with something thin like a flathead screwdriver. Be **VERY CAREFUL** not to score anything, particularly the crank shaft. Using something dull could be very helpful as well, rather than a flathead screw driver.

Place new bearing in that is pre lubed. Replace cap, use red loctite and torque to 130ft/lbs, replace oil pan gasket, button up, good to go...

Parts Needed:
- Oil Pan Gasket
- #4 bearing. As I get the actual cummins part numbers, I will post...
EDIT: 3927772 "Bearing, Crankshaft Thrust"
 

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If one loosens all the mains(a pain) the crank will drop slightly, allowing for easy replacement of the top Shell. Borrow a one legged clothespin off the line, the skinny end makes a perfect driver for removing the top Shell.

Ed
 

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You might want to inspect the bearing you pull for wear. If it shows significant wear you need to replace the entire set, not just the one. Those thrust spacers coming off the early style bearings was a common issue. Do you know if your crank is standard size or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Been away a bit. Weather has been good so mostly working outside, but we do have a little progress. Have not replaced the main bearings and put the pan back on yet, but I did have the motor mounts finish welded (Thanks Anthony) and got the frame all painted from the firewall forward. Now to strip out all the old engine control wiring and then get those bearings installed so I can put this baby in for good.
126654
126655
126656
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Had time last night to pull the bearing cap and get the rest of the #4 bearing out. Here are pics of that 3 pc thrust bearing. The other side popped off as I was pushing it out with a piece of aluminum! I'm having a hard time finding a part number for a 1 pc. If someone has it, could you share it soon?
126672
126673
126674
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I found them 3978822 is the newest revision of the thrust bearing, and the whole set is 4376426
 
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