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Discussion Starter #81
Yes sir. Ordered the whole set off ebay for $26. Or I could have bought them from Cummins for $202...I'm sure someone will jump in and say the Cummins part is somehow superior, however, let me tell you that I worked in an aftermarket disc brake operation and saw the same pads go into different companies packaging with different paint colors, and the pricing varied at the retail stores by a huge margin-but the product in the box was the same. Automotive aftermarket parts still have to meet certain specifications, they aren't just junk stuffed in a box. often times the aftermarket item will exceed the OEM item, as in the case with tires. Done with that. Just heading off the comments!
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Got the firewall cleaned up and painted. once my main bearing arrive, I'll slip them in and get this motor, tranny, and transfer bolted in for good. Looking forward to NOT having the hoist in the shop!
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Discussion Starter #83
Progress is progress. Rust free windshield frame swapped on. Front axle up on the table to be gone through. Main bearings arrived today, so I can get them all replaced, put the pan back on, and get that sucka bolted in for good. that will be a nice milestone.
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Discussion Starter #84
Good progress last night. All 5 sets of main bearings installed. Just have to torque them down tonight (130 ft lbs, right?) and put the pickup and pan back on and she is ready to go in. It took about 1-1/2 hrs but I'm pretty slow and meticulous. Did it on a creeper with the engine hanging on the hoist. I used a brass scraper that I trimmed down and bent into a curve to push the old upper bearings out. New bearings were coated liberally with engine assembly lube. The old bearings dont look bad, but certainly show some wear on the edges due to the thrust bearing being missing in action on one side. Glad I found this when I did and replaced them all.

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No, your bearings didn't look bad. A bit of wear on the bottom halves but nothing major. Always good to start out with then all new.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Productive Sunday morning. Got the main caps torqued to 130 ft lbs, oil pickup back on for deep part of pan to the rear, and oil pan back on. An hour later I had it fully bolted in. Had to do a little trimming for the transmission tower to clear the original opening in the floor, but it was minor. Transmission and bellhousing is a bit shorter than the original setup apparently. Now, to get the high pinion 44 front rebuilt and the 8.8 Ford rear gone through, then the heavy lifting is pretty much over. Clearance is good all around bellhousing, transmission, and back of motor. Only concern I may have is clearance for the exhaust elbow coming off the turbo, but I see a lot of manifold options that change the location of the turbo.
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Discussion Starter #87
I've read a lot of the posts on the forum, and I must say that I'm getting mixed signals. If I run a cut down 6BT exhaust manifold, can I or can I not keep my oil filter where it is? Running the turbo up top is not an option.
 

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Running a cut down 6bt manifold does not interfere with the stock oil filter. The turbo is in a higher position and angled away from the block. Here's a photo showing the position of the turbo which is above the oil filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Thank you sir. I ordered a manifold that is center dump and has the turbo out farther from the engine off of ebay for $85 just to see how it clears, but this is certainly a viable option now that I see how it fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I got the bulkhead and top properly located, windshield angle correct, and doors fitted. Hard to push here and pull there by yourself, so I had to get creative. Got it all tightened down. That took most of a day.
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Discussion Starter #91 (Edited)
Then I started in on the high pinion dana 44 front axle. New bearings and seals, new calipers and pads, new tie rods. Could not find my exact build code, but it looks like a 1976 Ford F100/F150 front axle that has had the coil bracketry cut off. Calipers ordered for that axle fit correctly.
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Discussion Starter #92
Then I started on the spring perches. I set the caster at 7.5 degrees and tacked on a new perch in a random location out of the way, but perfectly level.
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Then I rotated the axle upside down, since these axles will still be SUA, and welding perches on is easier with them on top of the tube.
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Had to do some grinding on the drivers side center section, and some matching trimming on the perch for that side. The white lines next to the tape indicate the 31" spring centers.
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I have to do a little grinding to set it level left and right, and then I'll level both the one I have tacked on and this one, and I'll weld it in place. Then I can knock the tacked one off, and set it 31" from this one and level and weld it in place.
 

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Looks like you're coming right along. On the manifold you purchased, if it's the standard Cummins center mount like in the photo below, it will clear everything fine if the turbo is top mounted like it was designed for. If you try to put the turbo in the down position you'll need a remote oil filter setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Got the spring pads welded up. Not my best welding job ever, but they wont fall off. I used a E6013 rod and I find them difficult when the welding turns vertical. I'll get the carrier blown out with solvent, let it dry, add 1.5 quarts of lube and get the cover on and finish the paint. Maybe, just maybe this will get bolted in this weekend. My son is home for a few days and having him there to help wrestle the old out and this one in over the springs is a plus.
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Discussion Starter #97
Thanks! Appreciate the guidance. Got the manifold bolted on; will torque it down properly tonight. Can of Cummins tan really gave it some bling!
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If you wanted to do a Cummins remote filter setup it can be done a lot cheaper than it was a few years ago. Here's a post I did a few years back showing all the parts involved. The 2 main parts are just the block adapter plate and the remote filter head. This one can probably be done for under $300 depending on hoses and fittings. The one I did was no holds barred with all Aeroquip hoses and fittings. Those cost more than the 2 big parts. Won't even think about the cost of that dual filter bypass version I did. I had a friend who was a machinist that did that work for free. Remote Oil Filter
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I got a setup ordered for $85 off ebay. I'm good to go on the filter relocation. Single filter-no need for a double setup. I'll spend a little extra for made up hoses with no clamps, but that is down the road.

So here is the front axle, ready for lube and cover. its not a G2 or a Ultimate 44, but I also have less than $500 in it.
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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Got the manifold torqued down and the turbo back on. I like it, and will run with it. I am going to fab an extended lower mount for the alternator (getting a new single wire GM for it today) and will rotate it clockwise so I can run a filter / pipe straight to the inlet on the turbo. Gives me lots of room for the downpipe. My plan there is to come out the passenger side just above the frame and drop under the passenger side of the body with a turn out just in front of the rear tire (NOT as shown-just checking the old downpipe clearance). I also reclocked the inlet side of the turbo to get the outlet to the intercooler up higher.
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