Is the exhaust typically 3" on these trucks or 2.5"? I measure 3" across the turbo outlet, but it occurs to me that the flange for the V-clamp is bigger than the pipe...Before I order a new downpipe, I guess I oughta know that!
On the oil drain off the turbo, once I loosen the 2 bolts on the flange, will that pipe spin or is it just an as-is or 180 degree type of deal?
To clarify, it makes sense to me that 2.5" OD exhaust with a flange of 1/4" per side would measure 3" OD on the flange...is that what I have? Even at 2.5" ID it still looks correct that it is not 3" exhaust. I think the crap piece of exhaust that came off the turbo previously is 3" which is what threw me off, but it had a flat stainless band holding it to the turbo-not a V-clamp.
Need help on downpipe size. I'm seeing 3" V-clamps flanges that are advertised as 3.75" OD on the flange....It makes sense to me that 2.5" OD exhaust with a flange of 1/4" per side would measure 3" OD on the flange...is that what I have? Even at 2.5" ID it still looks correct that it is not 3" exhaust. 1994 Grumman Olsen Fed Ex truck. I physically measure 3" OD Flange on the H1c turbo.
The outlet on the turbo is 2.5" but the exhaust pipe is normally 3". The flange on the back of the turbo will have either a half Marmon or a full Marmon flange. If you look at the flange surface, the half Marmon is perfectly flat. The full Marmon has a stepped curve. The 2 flanges require different down pipes. The full Marmon flange gets a pipe that is molded to fit that curved surface. The half Marmon gets a matching flat plate that is usually welded into the down pipe. You get a pipe bend of your choice and weld the flange to it. There are some alternative down pipes that will clamp onto the half Marmon. Below is a photo of a Cummins turbo 90 deg down pipe 3959061. You can see one mating surface is flat and the other side has a small flat area with a bevel edge. That is the full Marmon side. Also shown is part 3910992 which has a slip on end and the half Marmon flange. This is for an industrial engine with a vertical muffler but can be used in a down position. You'd just need an adapter from the muffler shop to fit the down pipe and mate it to the 3" exhaust pipe. Another option is the 1st gen Dodge down pipe found on '94-02 Dodges. Again, this is the half Marmon flange and it mates to a 3" exhaust. It is a 45 deg angle so it's not quite as compact as the tight 90's. The main elbow is part 3942091. The other photo shows the complete assembly with a section of the tapered exhaust pipe and the attaching clamp. It's a nice setup it you have the room. I believe I have one of those on my work bench.
This is what I'm planning for a direct inlet on the turbo. Just requires a longer mount for the alternator and a longer belt-no adjustment necessary as the belt tensioner takes care of that. Depends on what it does to my pipe to the intercooler.
On your oil drain on the turbo, the outlet pipe is welded to the flange. You'll need something custom since that exhaust manifold was never used by the factory in the down position. The part in the block skirt can move because it just has sealing O rings.
Waited til the wife got home so she could manipulate the jack while I manhandled the small end. Got it in place in about 5 minutes. I know I've seen a u-bolt around here to fit over the diff side, but don't see it now! I was fortunate that a guy not too far from me had bought all the stuff from Barnes or Ruff Stuff to do this axle swap in his jeep and then backed out. Bought the u-bolts, perches, plates, and shock mounts for $100 delivered. Everything but that one oddball u-bolt...
Pretty sure I'm going to flip that tie rod to the top of the arms. Have to measure tonight to get the right tapered inserts. That is why I haven't painted it yet. Drag link looks like it can be shortened enough to fit with the available thread! More heat and Free-All on the way as most of this stuff has been TIGHT. As I reassemble, all threads have been chased with a tap or wire brushed well and have gotten a liberal coating of anti seize. I'm building this to keep, which means I might be the next one working on it...
You may notice that I have left the sway bar in the front. The jury is still out, but since this jeep will be primarily used for cruising, I think I am going to weld some bolts on those spring plates and hook it back up. I have read other posts saying their YJ drove better than ever once they eliminated the sway bar and the track bar (making it essentially a CJ front suspension). Track bar is gone, but I think I want the sway bar for cornering with that extra 150 lbs or so up front.
On your alternator placement, you don't have to swing it way out if you use a cobra head intake. Those were found on the stock turbos. Need to get your remote filter setup in place to see what king of room you have.