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Discussion Starter #121
Understood. Not moving it so much for clearance to the spring as I am to get it higher for obstacle clearance and to avoid putting an insert in the tie rod itself-the taper is on the wrong side. This is a 78 Wagoneer tie rod; closest thing I could get to the right length. I dont mind putting inserts in the arms as they have a lot more meat.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Dana 44 is all bolted in. Bump stops in place. Sway bar connected. Brake lines connected-I'll have to do a little rerouting. Need to work on steering and get it off the frame and jackstands under the front axle so I can start on the back. Pretty nose-heavy right now.

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Discussion Starter #123
I had 8 u-bolts to cut off. They were probably 4" too long, and I dont need that hanging down grabbing roadkill. I have used a sawzall in the past, but getting good blades is a disappointment nowdays.

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I had bought this guy probably over a year ago for another project and hadnt used it.

126995


I can tell you it is bad-ass! Can I say that? It cut through those 5/8 u-bolts like butter. Pretty sure it would remove digits and perhaps your whole hand quickly too if you dont put a gorilla grip on the grinder. I had the guard off for a tight grind on something. I'll be putting it back on! Gonna buy another one to hang on the wall for a spare. Best metal cutter I have used.

126996
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Got the front axle on Jack stands, so the front suspension is loaded. Slight interference, so we are going to the top of the arms with the tie rods.
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Discussion Starter #126
Not sure I had ever posted a pic of the top and bulkhead. Lot of work there, but it fit perfectly once it was all lined up and seam sealer applied. Debating on final color, but I'm leaning toward a dark green metallic or one of the new grays you see on Toyota trucks.
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Discussion Starter #127
New front shocks arrived. One of the old ones was stuck solid. Working on positioning of the lower mounts.
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Discussion Starter #128
New wheels came in as well. Going with a 34-35" all terrain tire. Haven't picked them yet. These are 17 x 8.5 with 18mm of positive offset to help tuck the tires back under the jeep with the full width axles.
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Discussion Starter #129
Oil filter relocation kit appears it will fit fine. I'll have hoses made with 90's. Painting it tan to look factory.
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Discussion Starter #130
That whole turbo, alternator, oil filter area is quite congested, but looks like I can low mount the alternator with the cobra head intake boot.
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Discussion Starter #131
And, turbo supply line rerouted. Gonna cut the drain and have a friend of mine tig it at the angle I need.
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Discussion Starter #132
Correct pulley swapped on to new one wire Chevrolet alternator. It's for a 96 k3500 5.7 truck. Over $200 at o'Reilly but $74 at rockauto.
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Discussion Starter #134
Test fitting sheet metal. 90 degree exhaust elbow ordered. Not clear where I am going with intake air to the turbo yet.
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Discussion Starter #136
Got the old rear axle and track bar removed. Looks like these shocks are still good and just need a new coat of paint.
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Discussion Starter #138
A bit of cleaning and painting on the inner fender and battery tray. Braces all bolted in so I can fit the stainless exhaust elbow I got in place out over the frame rail. 2" body lift helps here with clearance too. Side view of it as it is today.
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Discussion Starter #139
Got a start on the 8.8 after I got the old rearend out. New paint, wheel cylinders, shoes, and drums. Adjusters were freed up and coated with anti-seize. I guess I never mentioned it, but I use a lot of anti-seize and run a tap through every threaded hole as I reassemble. Does it add time? Yes. When I can, I put the tap semi-snug in a battery powered hand drill and dip the tap in oil and run it through. If it hits a bad spot, it will spin in the chuck and I can decide if I want to proceed with tightening the chuck or put a tap handle on it.

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