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Discussion Starter #142
I got this stainless elbow with flanges from Himni racing. Not cheap, but certainly a quality piece, and it came with two v-flange clamps and an additional flange for the exhaust end. Fit perfectly and looks like exhaust will run right where I want it to.

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Discussion Starter #143
My tie rod flip inserts arrived from Ruff Stuff, so I set out to move the tie rod to the top of the arms. I used a 78 Jeep Cherokee long end arm as it had the eye in it for the drag link to connect to, but the taper was on the wrong side with it under the arms...since there was some interference, moving it to the top is a win-win-win. I have used these previously on some other projects.

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Discussion Starter #145
To perfectly center my steering wheel and maintain the exact same turning angle both left and right, my drag link has to be shortened by about 2.25". I ordered a tap for the tube today. 9/16-18 is not something I had laying around...
I'll cut it off and retap the sleeve and screw the right hand tie rod end back in. Yes, do not cut off the left hand threaded end unless you have a left hand tap handy!

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Discussion Starter #147
Put a little paint on the rear shocks and primered the center section of the 8.8. Got the flu and it has knocked me down hard.

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Discussion Starter #148
Got the drag link shortened to perfection. Now I can go through the front suspension and steering and make sure everything is tightened and cottered keyed. I'll mark each finished joint with a paint marker pen so I know what has been gone over and what hasnt.

Finally got to the other end of that 8.8 axle.
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A small parts kit is like $5, so how can you justify NOT replacing that stuff?
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Discussion Starter #149
Finished it up, got the lube in (2 qts gear lube plus 4 oz of friction modifier) and put the cover on. If I get time this evening, those original perches will get cut off and ground smooth, and this puppy is ready to put in. I'll lay it in the spring perches, then establish the pinion angle, and THEN weld the new perches on.

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Took this picture mostly for my own future knowledge, but the high pinion 44 front and the 8.8 rear are within a 1/2" of each other in width.

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Discussion Starter #150
Finally got the 8.8 in place. Just need to glove up and use the diamond saw to cut off those pesky long u-bolts. Then I'll get the rear on jackstands so the weight is on the springs at ride height and I'll set the pinion angle. I'm going with a CV joint at the transfer case, so the rear will be pointed directly at the transfer case yoke. I "think" all the heavy work is done, but the list of plumbing, electrical, and CJ dash swap is still pretty big. Done by Spring?

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Discussion Starter #151
Got the rear shock mounts welded on, shocks mounted, and spring perches welded to the axle once I had the pinion angle set. New shoes on in the rear!

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Time to start on the brakes. I have new braided front brake lines setting on the bench, and have been measuring the difference between the old master cylinder mounting and the Fed Ex trucks hydroboost mounting. Looks like I will have to shorten the factory standoff on the firewall just a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Got the old girl on her feet. Both front shock mounts welded on, shocks mounted, and stainless braided brake lines installed. Front wheels and tires bolted on and the jackstands are put away. Been a long time coming, but it takes me a long time to do most things. LOTS of little stuff to do. I had walked away from it for 2 weeks just to take a breather and let my mind clear. Always easier when you go back after that break, and the interest is renewed.

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Discussion Starter #153
Got the turbo drain rerouted and installed and then I played with the old roll bar a bit. I'm going to mount it vertically behind the top. A 10 degree pie section cut where the support bar meets the main bar and I can bend them down to fit. Probably going to do a bar in front of the windshield with 3 or 4 connectors between the main bar and that front one over the top. They will all be bolt on through rubber bushings, so if I ever wanted to, I could remove the top.

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Funny how the old mounts that held the bar to the floor behind the seats are a perfect match with the sides of the body....hmmm

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Discussion Starter #154
I installed the hydroboost setup from the fed ex truck into the jeep. Had to drill a new pattern in the firewall to maintain the same centerline for the linkage, and used standoffs to adjust the distance from the firewall, which was 2-1/8" shorter than the jeeps original standoff.

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Discussion Starter #155
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Might have found my first clearance issue with the height of the master cylinder cap....havent checked it yet, but already thinking about some hood louvers or something if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Then I started on the intercooler mounts. I used some tubing, which will be welded to the frame, with some old wrangler spare tire bumpers off the tailgate as mounts. Drill though for a 3/8 bolt, and set it in place. Had to cut the inner fender sheetmetal to allow for the full width of the fed ex truck intercooler.

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Discussion Starter #157
Then I rebent the original brake lines off of the old master cylinder and routed them under to the original jeep proportioning valve. Had to change one nut to 1/2-20 for the front line.

Also mounted the fed ex truck's power steering reservoir on the firewall and hooked up one of the returns from the hydroboost back to the tank. New hoses for the pump supply and steering box return will be picked up tomorrow.

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