I'm getting ready to start on my 4bt into a 88 Wrangler YJ Build. I bought a pretty much rust free YJ with a new 4" spring lift (still under) and 33" tires. It has 3.08 gears, which seems to put me right in the sweet spot for cruising rpms.
I also have purchased a running driving step van with a 4bt and a 4 speed. I dont have it home yet, but have to assume its a T-18. Yeah, I bought it sight unseen but from reputable people, so I'm not scared. The price was right too.
I guess my first questions are as follows:
I'm looking at Farmstrong motor mounts. Thumbs up or thumbs down on that choice?
Can anyone recommend a drivers side drop transfer case that is easy to mate to a Ford T-18 4 speed?
With a 4" spring under lift, will I still likely need a body lift?
On to the heater core. Why redo everything on the jeep and not replace the heater core? I think I'll drive it in cold weather, but who knows. Getting the plenum box out was a bit of a chore, but new core fit well and my wife helped me get it all lined up going back in.
One thing I've learned over the years for certain...when you build a vehicle from scratch using this, that, and other parts, you MUST keep track of what you used in the event you have to replace it down the road.
This is the master cylinder I ended up with.
And the belt I used. It is snug but I like it. Remember my alternator is NOT in the stock location.
And my choice of oil and fuel filters. I worked for Affinia, which owned Wix Filters, and I was in their plant in Gastonia numerous times, including the lab, where I saw testing against other filters, and Wix is flat out a superior product.
I'm going for the flat dash more like a CJ, but wanted to keep the dash pad, so I removed everything and will put a new aluminum panel over all of this with new gauges and switches.
The factory roll bar in a YJ leans back from the floor behind the seats. I cut it to the height I wanted, and set it vertical behind the top. I cut a pie shape out of the kickers and moved them down about 13 degrees to get them square to the inner fenders. Looks like 2-1/2" spacers will need to be bolted to the original holes in the jeep and then welded to the kickers. That way it will still be removeable with bolts.
Installed a new clutch master cylinder, and will have to make up a line and see what is needed to hook the jeep clutch master to the Cummins slave cylinder.
clutch line run and fluid added / bleed
drop the tank and remove the gasoline in tank pump.
hook up fuel supply and return lines at engine
new throttle levers and spring installed
ready to test fire the engine
finish brake line from proportioning valve to rear hose
brake fluid added / bleed
intake hose and filter arranged
heater hoses run
lower radiator hose figured out
water / coolant in
dash
roll bar
wiring
driveshafts
ready to take for a stroll
My engine showed very low miles on the odometer, but my throttle levers and breakover spring show a different story. They were very worn. Capital Diesel in Holts Summit Missouri had everything I needed on hand and I picked them up yesterday.
When you take that top nut off you can get to the first lever and the spring. Before removing the bolted together levers you have to note the clocking position in relation to the slot in the end of the stud. Mine was in the "normal" location based on what I have read.
Of the two levers that come off next, the top one has the splines in it and really no wear areas, and it is bolted on top of the one that has the pin in it that showed a lot of wear. I bolted them back together in the same position the old ones were.
Pulled the fuel tank out. I thought this year had an in tank fuel pump, but it did not. I'll put a new sock on the pickup tube and new fill and vent hoses on it and put it back in. It needed drained anyway-had 5 gallons or so of bad gas in it. I think I'll hit that filler opening with a hole saw so it will accept diesel nozzles at the pump better as well. Good time to do it while its off. Marked the supply and return lines clearly too! Guess a shot of rustoleum wouldnt hurt anything...
Beware. The fuel sock is bad news with diesel fuel unless it is specifically designed for it. Those things get clogged with use and cause a lot of grief. No sock is preferred. Ford diesels used a metal strainer. Some of the GM's had a sock but it was made special for diesel.
Fuel tank is reinstalled with no sock. All supply and return lines are connected with new fuel hose and clamps. Ran the last brake line to the rear. Now I need to run all my brake line fittings with line wrenches to snug them down. Installed some new LED headlights with directional signals built in. They look good.
While looking over everything preparing to start her up, I noticed this line going to the AFC is broken. Dont think I did that, and it looks like an old break. Can anyone give me a part number for that line? Secondly, the truck ran good when I pulled the motor. What symptoms will this line being broken cause?
Is the line just pulled out of the banjo fitting perhaps? I ran out of time to play with it. Happy Mothers Day!
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