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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
A few updates:

I fixed the KDP last weekend. This was a Cummins RECON engine and no the KDP was NOT fixed in it.
I was going to replace the front seal; however, I found a stainless sleeve. The new front seal part numbers did not match the existing seal. The existing seal is Part #3900709; the new seal is Part #8935959.

This week, I dropped off the transmission to have the shop go "thru it" --- The Torque Convertor was toast; new one, replaced the seals in the pump, etc. Will add a picture of it later.


 

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The seal numbers are different because the inside diameters are different to allow for what the industry calls a speedy sleeve. Its used to repair a badly grooved seal surface. Cummins stocks both standard size seals and seal kits with the sleeve included. I don't know if you can get the larger seal without the sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Long overdue update.

Transmission overhauled; new torque converter. I've getting out of my storage unit......so, I had to build some shelves in my step van (engine donor) to hold stuff from storage. Made a trip to pick up some Mercedes goodies; bought an old Mercedes (it runs, so it is at my house) --- it's been distracting me.

So, today, I installed the flex plate, torque converter, transmission, and transfer case. The transfer case from the Dodge Dakota fit perfectly onto the end of the 4wd 47RE dodge diesel transmission:D Sheesh, the transmission is so bright, you can barely see the engine in front of it. Yes, that's the heavy duty "engine stand" in the background of the first photo --- the forklift at work.


 

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Keep it up

Glad to see some progress mine is going slow to almost stoped:(
since it got warm the grass is groing as fast as my honey do list :D
\I don't like winter as much as I did when I was a kid but now
I'm ready for it to come back so I can lock myself in the barn
and not worry about anything else:D but the Dakota.:confused:
 

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DAW,

Glad to see you're moving forward. I got stalled on some other things, but am back on it. Motor mounts are next on the list found out through the Cummins data base that my motor was original equipment in the bread van. Manufactured in '88. Ordered my hydraboost package last week, and my radiator arrived.

Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Last Saturday's progress

Last Saturday, I got the oil pan taken off. Taped a garbage bag over the bottom in preparation of today's work.:D

 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
More Progress made today

Well, folks. I made some more progress today. I sold my "last" non-running Mercedes project car; a 1979 300SD. Loaded onto the buyer's trailer this morning and off he went.

Then the shop guy who wasn't busy on any of his projects suggested we drag in the Dakota and get busy. We got in inside the shop out of the direct sunlight. Must have been 100F today here in Memphis. Anyway. Took the front bumper off. We got the truck lifted up about a foot off the ground, set some jack stands under the front axle, and he went to cutting on the existing motor mounts. Then I got the engine cherry picker (yes, the shop guy really does have one) over in our area and retrieved the engine out of the back of the step van (storage). The bad news was the forklift would not go thru the side door with the engine hanging from it --- too tall by about 3 inches. So, we had to set the engine down, then get it up in the air on the cherry picker and move it over to the truck. The cherry picker really does NOT want to roll with the engine hanging from it.

We slowly moved the engine, transmission, and transfer case into the engine bay. Here are some observations:

  1. Removing the exhaust manifold and turbo will provide us more working room on the passenger side.
  2. The front axle is about 3 inches down from it's normal position in the following pics --- hmmmmm. This does present a challenge --- I was hoping we would leave the front axle and differential essentially in the same "place" (relationship to frame) as it was with gasser motor.
  3. The top mounted vacuum pump bracket may want to stick thru the hood ----- hmmmmm. Challenge #2, but this one seems much easier to fix.
  4. Oil pan might get notched for the front differential.
  5. It appears I'll have plenty of room for AC without having to notch the frame.
We stopped for the day because we didn't have a transmission mount for the 2001 Dodge Ram2500 4wd diesel transmission that is being reused. We plan to use that mount and then the original Dakota transmission frame support and fab up anything we need in between.

Notes about the pics below:
1) The engine will slide about 1.5 more inches to the rear of the truck --- using the existing "grease line" on the rear driveshaft to choose exact location --- may choose to slide it more and go past the existing grease line on the rear driveshaft. Can the front driveshaft "extend" out some?
2) The passenger side front axle mount is easily spotted --- it will be connected to either the engine rear monting location or the frame; not for sure which. The rear motor mount on the passenger side is not going to be used for the new motor mounts --- planning on the center mount location.
3) The driver's side differential mount easily spotted before existing motor mount removal is difficult to spot after engine was slung into the enging bay.
4) The top piece of the vacuum pump angle iron is visible.
5) The engine will go back and then ---- well, I'm not for sure if it will go up or down after we slide it back. You should be able to see the issues with the front differential. UGH.
6) Jack stands holding the front axle up were almost in the way of the cherry picker --- that would have been BAD!!!











 

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When I did my 2000 Durango, which is the same as your truck up front, I had to lower my differential assembly about 1". At the same time I completely modified the oil pan. To mount the engine and differential, I used the bread truck front motor mounts to mount the engine to the frame, then made brackets for the differential to bolt to the mid-mount motor mount locations on the block. I got rid of the big aluminum bracket on the driver's side motor mount and used my new bracket to bolt right from the block to the differential. The bolt pattern on the block is quite large, so I knew it would handle the torsional forces of the front diff. Because of that, I used one large bracket to bolt onto the pinion-end holes in the diff, and the upper/forward holes; instead of how Dodge mounted the forward holes to the motor mount, and the pinion holes to the bellhousing with a bracket.

2 1/2 years and lots of miles later and nothing moved, broke, or loosened up. It drives great even in 4x4, so the location of the front diff is working well.

I'll be pulling it out soon, as my Durango is too rusty to pass inspection in July; I'll most likely end up seeing if anyone has a use for the custom oil pan and brackets at that time. When i made my pan, I notched a lot out, but lowered the sump so it still held 10 qts. The sump hangs a little low, but its a daily driver, no off roading, so i was fine with it. If I wanted clearance for off road, I could take almost 2" out of it, and probably lose a quart and a half at most. Still fine for the light truck it's moving.

Jim
 

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looking good your 2000 is different than my 1999 Dakota mine didn't have the
big cast aluminum engine mount it was formed sheet metal welded to a round housing.

I'm still working on my front 4-link and is it getting interesting :confused:
sorry I can't help you with the tranny wiring yet but if you get yours going first.
you can help me :D

heck I don't even have my engine back from the machine shop :(
I've still got the moch up engine in it.
hope to get it soon.

keep me posted.
 

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Sorry for the duplicate info...maybe someone else doing this in a Dakota can use them. Before I did my swap I looked for every little piece of info I could find. Unfortunately at that time there was very little pertaining to Dakotas and Durangos.

That oil pan might look pretty ugly...O.K., it DOES...but as you've seen its a tight fit behind the differential. I used the old Dodge oil pan for filler pieces since the material was the same thickness as the Cummins pan.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Sorry for the duplicate info...maybe someone else doing this in a Dakota can use them. Before I did my swap I looked for every little piece of info I could find. Unfortunately at that time there was very little pertaining to Dakotas and Durangos.
No problems on posting your pics here --- good idea.


That oil pan might look pretty ugly...O.K., it DOES...but as you've seen its a tight fit behind the differential. I used the old Dodge oil pan for filler pieces since the material was the same thickness as the Cummins pan.

Jim
GREAT idea on using the old Dakota oil pan --- my engine is toast; bad knock.
 

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That's why I pulled the gasser out of mine. I bought it used, checked it thoroughly and it looked (internally and externally), install all new gaskets, seals, water pump, timing set, cleaned and painted the block and accessories, really went all out. Then it started making noise about 100 days after purchasing it. It had a 90 day warranty (which wouldn't have covered the $800+ I invested in parts). I told my wife the only way she was getting her Durango back was with a diesel. Engine #3, but this one still runs like a top. :) I honestly thought the crappy Dodge auto would have died first. I got rid of that with the NV4500.

Jim
 

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Did you check to see how the starter fits?

It looks like you reduced your oil pan capacity by about 50%. I would highly recommend you reduce your miles between oil changes to 1500 - 2000 miles and possibly less than that if you intend on increasing the fueling. Reducing oil capacity reduces the ability of the oil to suspend carbon deposits for longer periods of time. That's why these engines have such large oil pan capacities.
 

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If you were asking me...I've been driving it for 2 1/2 years. Starter fit fine, Dodge P/S and vacuum pumps fit fine. I designed the bracket with them in place. The oil pan holds a full 10 qts. I made it deeper and extended the pickup deeper to compensate. It hangs down a couple inches more than I would like, but it was built as a street driver. If I were doing it again I'd make the pan a couple inches higher and drop capacity to 8 qts., which would still be plenty for a light vehicle.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Well, today, more work was performed on the front differential mounts. The passenger side turned out really good. The welder doesn't want me to post pics until I have all the grinding done on all the mounting pieces. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
AC questions

Okay, guys. AC is driving me crazy.:eek:

I have an AC bracket Part #3974354 --- looks like the AC/Alternator bracket with the lower water neck pointing out the side. This bracket also has a place to mount a belt tensioner.






What Sanden compressor should I be considering? I'm thinking I want the AC lines to come out the back of the compressor and of course, I want the compressor to be as new as possible as "slim", so I don't have to cut a LOT out of the frame.

What belt tensioner will work with it?
 

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AC

I'm not sure on the part#'s but it sounds like you have the Dodge 6BT bracket which is good.
I will check to see what # is on mine tommorow.
I think all the factory Dodge cummins AC compressors all bolt up the same way
on the B-series from 94to at least 06 the thing you have to whatch is how the
AC line ports are clocked different years are rotated a little different:confused:
but all the ones I've seen all come out the back.
check out the one on your 24V :D
I think a guy should be able to use a compressor from say a 2000 and buy the lines
for the 24V Ram for the same year and should work not 100% sure I've just been comparing
between my Dakota and Ram.
but I think the lines should be long enough to keep the factory Dakota condensor
in the stock location.
hope this helps good luck.

O and if you do have the 6BT bracket you will be able to run a stock 6BT tensioner
on my 99 the Dakota alternaterfits in the 6B bracket so everthing on the front
should end up just like a 6bt if you have the fan drive bearing hub to.
then you can run a stock 6BT belt.
thats the plan for my 99 anyways:idea:
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Hi vandever.

Yes, that helps a lot. I went to NAPA and got a 97/98 AC compressor for a Dodge 12v Cummins; the AC connections come out the back and the mounting fits. NAPA did not have any Sanden compressors. While I was there, I asked about the belt tensioner --- bought one of those, too. Now, I just need bolts, washers, and welder guy available on Saturday to notch the frame for me. I hope he is reading this.

The Dakota Compressor might work.....and I might try to make it work.....with less ribs on the belt; same with the Dakota alternator.
 
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