[Ben8822]

I just wanted to start this thread and say hey, I am new here so bear with me haha! I have started gathering my parts this month for the swap and I hope to start the project this December. I am excited this will be my first engine swap ever and I have been educating myself like crazy. If anyone has any links or posts that have helped them in their similar build and wouldn't mind sharing them here that would be great, I have already subscribed to a few threads/builds here and can't wait to get started myself.

Here are the details on my rig and basically the platform I plan to drop this engine into. I use my Jeep as a DD and a Weekend/weekday warrior! :grinpimp:
I love to rock crawl.

2000 Jeep Wrangler (TJ)
D30 locked front and F8.8 with LSD rear both geared at 4.88 (I realize I will have to re-gear much higher correct? {lower number wise} I am also just running 33in tire's and will jump to 35's when these are done.)
I will be going the AX-15 route and upgrading my T-Case a bit to the NP242 [currently a NP231]
I have a 2in RE lift suspension lift that I think will need some stiffer springs to handle the extra weight from the engine.
Uhhh so yeah that's what I have. Pretty much everything else is stock and I am still researching to see what else I might need to change/do to make this swap even better and go smoothly. The possibilities are endless... sorta...

I would love some words of advice/thoughts and comments, thanks in advance y'all!

 

[BradtheWelder]

As far as gearing I like using this site: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

I use graphs like this to figure out what cruising RPM I should aim for.

 

[Russ McLean]

Ben,

You show your location as: Redding CA, Texas You are going to have a BIG problem registering that in CA. TX might be easier, if it is registered in a location that does not have annual SMOG inspections.

 

[twiisted71]

Ben I can tell you that a member (youngjeeper or some such) here was making engine mounts specifically to drop a 4BT into YJ Wranglers. I bought one of his first sets in the test group. I can't recommend at least getting the engine side mounts strongly enough. I'd encourage getting the frame side as well even if they will require mods (I've cut on mine quite a bit but they were prototypes.). They will save a ton of time, give you mid engine mounts (which I greatly prefer to distribute the engine's weight better), an have a nice angle which allows a very smooth idle, and use a dirt cheap rubber mount isolator (mine were less than $7 each through RockAuto!)

I'm not sure how closely the TJ frames are to the YJ, but it would be worth your time to find a frame spec diagram of the two-or find a YJ and get out your tape measure and angle finder. The mounts sit just below and rearward of the apex of the forward section of frame after it comes from under the firewall.

 

[Ggg]

The frames are different enough where the YJ frame side of the mounts are not interchangeable with a TJ frame. This is duel to the coil spring suspension, the frame curves in toward the engine to make room for the coil spring, the upward curve has a different radius, the tubing has a different profile. The mounts aren't very hard to fabricate if you have experience welding, and can literally "cut and paste" cardboard to make a template to follow. But if you don't then I guess the only option is to buy them. I have a link in my signature to my TJ build thread. I listed a lot of part numbers, ideas, etc. in the thread.
I will say since you are leaning towards a manual trans, buy an engine with a flywheel not a flexplate. Either Ford or GM flywheels can be used and mated to a Jeep trans.

 

[twiisted71]

I will say since you are leaning towards a manual trans, buy an engine with a flywheel not a flexplate. Either Ford or GM flywheels can be used and mated to a Jeep trans.

I def second this as most are doing manual trans and the manual versions are easier to sell IMHO, if you decide to go with a Dodge adapter set or even a custom aftermarket unit for big block or 7.3 transmissions.

Too bad to hear about the frames being that different. But then MANY use the breadvan forward mounts with absolutely NO issues (other than A/C compressor placement perhaps). Switching to the mid mounts was just a personal preference for me. Please allow me to point out that I have no vested or otherwise interest in the designer/seller of my mounts, for me they were a good option for their time savings and structural engineer designed strength. Making a pass side mid mount can be a design nightmare due to the starter, oil filter, and turbo drain all fighting for real estate where the mount naturally wants to bridge out. If you don't mind using a couple of the front mount holes and running a plate from the mid mount bosses to the forward ones, it makes doing it yourself MUCH easier. The driver's side is pretty much wide open (unless running a Dodge plate (puts starter on DS) and you could utilize a 2nd gen Dodge Cummins engine side mount to build a stupid easy and factory strong mount. I'm only trying to get you to focus on your mounts is to stress the importance of a good design. Several folks here have had to redesign their mounts due to a poor design causing their rigs to literally vibrate to pieces!! Also you have to keep in mind that you are discussing a #1000+ chunk of iron (engine/trans/TC) that needs to stay attached to your vehicle in the event of a crash! Not something to take lightly and do a half-assed job on. Ggg has a build thread that I've read numerous times-for ideas and to re-ignite my interest. Sometimes I need to see what I'm working towards and finished rigs that are well executed are a great motivator-so be sure to post your up AFTER the build is done too.

 

[JimmieD]

"D30 locked front and F8.8 with LSD rear both geared at 4.88 (I realize I will have to re-gear much higher correct? {lower number wise} I am also just running 33in tire's and will jump to 35's when these are done.)"

D30 & F8.8 to handle the torque of a 4BT rock crawler rig???

Best to spend some quality time in the Buildup Showcase section and also in pertinent sub-sections, especially the Stickies titled FAQ's in General and Tech sections, huge amount of info there, all alphabetically indexed per topic by BobS, a monumental task.

 

[Ben8822]

Thanks for the comments y'all.

BradtheWelder Thanks for that site i was looking at it the other day and then lost it!

Russ McLean, I am a perm resident in TX and will be driving back there after I do the swap to register it and all that good stuff, I'm just in Northern CA for a short few months for work.

Ggg and Twiisted71 I was looking at different mounts that are sold online and I saw JD Jeeps has a good set that works really well. JimmieD That's the platform i have set up now and am looking to swap that D30 for a built HP D60, but that 8.8 is built tough and is ready to go it should be fine. But I will for sure continue combing through those stickies and FAQ's. Thanks for the interest and comments guys!

 

[Ben8822]

I found a engine that I am going to take a look at on Monday and hope do drive off with it if its legit and what I am looking for, The guys says it has an inline pump engine and it's complete with everything, (i.e. Trans, radiator, power steering pump, inline fuel pump, and he said "everything else"...? hahaha whatever :lol: ) plus the inter-cooler all for 2800.00 Sounds legit... I gotta check that fuel pump first though, I am hoping its a model "P" and not an "A". If its a rotary pump that's cool too but yeah I will keep y'all updated!

 

[Ggg]

I hope that engine has a manual transmission and not an automatic.

 

[Ben8822]

from what he told me, its a manual. Good note though.

 

[Ben8822]

I just got home and the day has been very successful! I purchased a 4BT out of bread van fully set up with a inline pump Model (P), Intercooler, Flywheel, hydro assist, Alternator, Turbo, wiring and many other things. Plus I picked up my AX-15 today as well, so over all a great day of hunting.

The Engine had a Eaton 5-speed that I plucked off of it already and now I just need the adapter from Novak so I can mate the E with the T.

 

[JimmieD]

SUPER COOL, Ben! No excuses now, it looks like a GO for sure! Congratulations!!

 

[twiisted71]

Ben is the Eaton an OD trans? SAE3? What exactly are you getting from Novak? $$$?

 

[Ggg]

Ben be forewarned Novak HATES diesel Jeep swaps. They have no interest nor do they have any will to listen or learn the differences between gas and diesel swaps. Stay away from Novak they are not worth the trouble I and others here have been down this road with them and it leads to disappointment. Novak has an excellent tech section on their website and I think it is a great recourse, but they just don't get the diesel thing and openly admit it. Advanced Adapters were much more willing to listen when they didn't understand initially. Phoenix Castings is another company who caters to unusual engine swaps.
Ben since your engine had an Eaton trans it will have 99% chance of being a SAE flywheel housing. Novak will not even know what a SAE bolt pattern is let alone understand it. Phoenix Castings is a much better source for an SAE adapter in your case. Now if your engine had a Ford or GM trans then AA would be a good choice, but I don't believe they make any SAE adapters. They will at least know what a SAE pattern is and will tell you up front if they can help you out.

 

[twiisted71]

I just checked on Novak's site and saw they have a couple of super-sano looking adapters for the Jeep AX-15 and NSG 6 speeds that will allow mating them to GM and Ford Windsor bellhousings for CHEAP! There is a Ford adapter set in the classifieds right now for under $500. I really wish I'd have seen these when I first began my swap. I'd be through with the driveline long ago by now, since I would have likely stayed with the stock Jeep suspension and 1/2 full-width axles-because this would have allowed me to purchase a 6 speed/TC combo and keep decent driveshaft lengths. You would need to have either a Ford or GM adapter set-up on the 4BT to begin with though.
For a 3.3/Kubota/VW engine however....you'd be better looking elsewhere.
Since I'm going for more of a DD I'd offer my mondo components for sale and begin over on this path, if I weren't so far down the rabbit-hole already!

 

[Ggg]

The Novak adapters do not account for the 8 degree tilt on the Cummins/GM flywheel housing. Which is fine for some people but I needed both the engine and trans installed straight up in the Jeep chassis for clearance reasons.

 

[Ben8822]

Good thoughts and questions y'all. Check it out here is the flywheel! I am pretty sure this is the FORD version engine/mount. And Twisted I believe the Trans was a SAE3, I already off loaded it...

And different angle's of the Engine

I was on JDjeeps.com and they actually seem like a much better place to locate my adapters and parts, (I am going to shop around and see, but they seem to be a solid resource, knowledge and parts wise.)

 

[Ben8822]

Ben be forewarned Novak HATES diesel Jeep swaps. They have no interest nor do they have any will to listen or learn the differences between gas and diesel swaps. Stay away from Novak they are not worth the trouble I and others here have been down this road with them and it leads to disappointment. Novak has an excellent tech section on their website and I think it is a great recourse, but they just don't get the diesel thing and openly admit it. Advanced Adapters were much more willing to listen when they didn't understand initially. Phoenix Castings is another company who caters to unusual engine swaps.
Ben since your engine had an Eaton trans it will have 99% chance of being a SAE flywheel housing. Novak will not even know what a SAE bolt pattern is let alone understand it. Phoenix Castings is a much better source for an SAE adapter in your case. Now if your engine had a Ford or GM trans then AA would be a good choice, but I don't believe they make any SAE adapters. They will at least know what a SAE pattern is and will tell you up front if they can help you out.

Good looking out man thanks!

 

[twiisted71]

Def SAE adapter, not Ford. So you need to figure out which way you want to go NOW before buying anymore part$.