[Wc203]

So I’m about to pull the trigger on ordering up a super HX30W turbo, I am running the H1C on my aftercooled 4BT but I haven’t seen anyone do the super 30 on a aftercooled 4BT , I do intend to intercool it in the future but am guessing it would be easier to install the turbo and get it fitted correctly then install the intercooler after everything is complete as far as the turbo , why haven’t I seen any 4BTAs or pictures with different turbos installed ? (4BTA in a 80 series Land Cruiser , stock VE , 3 inch straight pipe , aftercooled )

 

[char1355]

Seems like there've been a few Land Cruisers done. The one issue you may run into on the aftercooler vs an intercooler is the air plumbing. The compressor outlet on the H1C is a smooth pipe the feeds into the crossover pipe to the aftercooler. The Super HX30W normally uses a bolt on 90 deg elbow for it's outlet. Smallest size elbow is 3". Here's a straight outlet adapter you'd need to make it work.

Holset HX35-40 / HX50-52-55 turbo compressor hose adapter The Super 30 outlet is the same as the HX35W. Also, remember the Super 30 oil line is different than your H1C. Diesel Tuff sells the oil line kit for $79.99. Of course the air inlet on the Super 30 is 4" vs 3" on the H1C. Here's a diagram of the CPL 0857 setup.

Don't know if that's your CPL or not. Another thing to keep in mind is the Super 30 is about 1.5" longer than the H1C due to the wastegate.
CPL 0594 used this turbo arrangement.

And here's yet another arrangement.

 

[Wc203]

These are the best pictures I have of my phone , looks like I might have to get the adapter and possibly a custom pipe for the aftercooler, my plan is to setup the turbo in this setup then eventually do the intercooler afterwards

 

[Wc203]

 

[char1355]

If you get that little straight adapter you may do OK. You'll need a silicone boot that reduces the 2.5" out to whatever your crossover pipe is. I know the rubber boots on the crossover pipe are 50.8mm which is 2". The rubber hose parts that come with the little adapter say they are 2.5", so you'd need a 2.5" to 2" piece like in the photo below. When you change over to an intercooler, you can still use the little straight adapter but need a 90 silicone elbow which is readily available. There you'd probably go 2.5" to 3" 90 deg depending on what size pipe you use for the intercooler. That way you don't have to change any position of the turbo. You'll have to see if you have in clearance issue with the firewall when the new turbo arrives. Another thing with that low mount exhaust manifold you may have a clearance issue with the air intake. The H1C normally had a 3" cobra head rubber intake cover. Below is a photo of a 4bt with a standard HX30W and you can see the rubber intake boot just clears the oil filter. Now a Super 30 boot will be 4" instead of 3". Real estate is going to get awfully tight. Do you know the CFM rating of your air cleaner? A Super 30 can consume a lot more air that the old H1C.

 

[Wc203]

clearance is definitely going to be tight , hopefully I can find a 4 inch cobra head piece to give me more clearance to my snorkel, the last photo helps a lot , I might have to massage my firewall a tad , get a turbo blanket and maybe wrap my down pipe / firewall to protect against heat, I’ll order the turbo up and report back. The air cleaner has 600 CFM rating but I’m going to opt for putting an air filter at the top of my snorkel in order to gain more room inside, it’s not the best looking but it clears up some room. Worst case I would have to change the whole exhaust manifold if I have the room. I’ll report back, appreciate the help and ideas . I’m hoping to maybe be able to get away with keeping the aftercooler and run this turbo with lower EGTs , I just haven’t seen many posts about aftercooled engines running this turbo setup .

 

[stpackard]

I have this if you need it. It fit my super 30, but ended up not using it for compressor clearance.
You might need to mix/match manifolds to find the right one. I was going to run the chopped 6bt except for ac compressor clearance.

clearance is definitely going to be tight , hopefully I can find a 4 inch cobra head piece to give me more clearance to my snorkel, the last photo helps a lot , I might have to massage my firewall a tad , get a turbo blanket and maybe wrap my down pipe / firewall to protect against heat, I’ll order the turbo up and report back. The air cleaner has 600 CFM rating but I’m going to opt for putting an air filter at the top of my snorkel in order to gain more room inside, it’s not the best looking but it clears up some room. Worst case I would have to change the whole exhaust manifold if I have the room. I’ll report back, appreciate the help and ideas . I’m hoping to maybe be able to get away with keeping the aftercooler and run this turbo with lower EGTs , I just haven’t seen many posts about aftercooled engines running this turbo setup .

 

[dreamin]

What is the difference between inter and after?

 

[char1355]

Based an what I can see of your hood clearance, you can possibly use the top center mount manifold. That would put the exhaust about 4-5" farther from the firewall and was a common manifold used with the aftercooler. Here's a diagram that show the turbo in that location and it doesn't appear to be any taller than the aftercooler. Turbo outlet is about a straight shot direct into the aftercooler. That would also eliminate any issues with the intake boot. That manifold is Cummins part 3901635. If you haven't already ordered your turbo, here is a good deal on the Super 30 which includes all the normal connecting parts. NEW GENUINE HOLSET HX30W 13024082 4051167 CUMMINS 4BTA 3.9L UPGRADE Turbocharger | eBay

 

[Wc203]

@char1355 I ordered up my turbo and the long oil line kit , wish i would have seen this eBay ad earlier , I’m going to attempt to mount it using the manifold I’m running now , if all else fails I’ll resort to the center mount manifold and redo my down pipe.

 

[char1355]

Your main issue is probably going to be the 4" air intake hitting the oil filter.

 

[SUBRUTUS]

Your main issue is probably going to be the 4" air intake hitting the oil filter.

A remote filter assembly would solve that...

 

[Wc203]

What’s that?

 

[SUBRUTUS]

What’s that?

A hose adapter plate is installed, where your filter is now, then a remote filter bracket is installed where ever you have the space, then run AN hoses between them, install the oil filter too the remote bracket...
These kits are known as "Cummins remote oil filter kits", priced about $150. to $200. USD.

 

[Wc203]

Aww . I see , for some reason that wasn’t processing .. haha, yes that is definitely an option also, I’m going to try the setup how it is now then if that doesn’t work I will try the centered exhaust manifold , then if that doesn’t work I will do the remote filter setup. The only issue with the remote filter is I’m not sure where I would mount , maybe on the frame rail or firewall?

 

[char1355]

Some of Cummins industrial engines came with remote oil filters. Here is a write up I did 6 years ago that shows all the parts in the factory setup and I give the option of various angle fittings depending on where you locate parts. I also included a bypass setup which is a bit more complex and would require some custom machine work. You can find the factory remote engine block plate coming out of China now for not much money. The original made in USA ones used to be horribly expensive. The Cummins remote filter head is special in that it has a bypass valve should the filter become clogged. Not likely to happen if you change oil and filter on a regular basis. The bypass valve is built into the filter plate you have but the remote one didn't have it. There are also some aftermarket companies who make different style remote filter units. Figure around $300 for the complete setup depending on what grade fittings and hoses you use. The one I did was no holds barred with Aeroquip parts which cost more than the filter head and block plate. Darn hose was over $20 per foot and some of the fittings were over $40 each. That dual filter setup would be major money if you had to buy all the parts plus the machine work. That one is designed to keep you oil the cleanest and you might only change the oil every year or two depending on miles driven. Big diesels have used these systems for years.

Remote Oil Filter

This was another of my pet projects from a few years ago that I thought may be of some help. As we all know, the area on the passenger's side of a 4bt can get crowded very quick. Often the oil filter and other parts, usually a turbo, are trying to share the same space. This happens especially if...

www.4btswaps.com