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I have been learning from this site for quite some time. I have been working on and planning my 4BT swap for quite awhile. Here are the basics:

58 Willys wagon in almost rust free condition. My oldest son was knocked off the road by a cross wind while on black ice. It did "roll" over once with the only impact being on the drivers side ending up on top of a barbwire fence. The only barb wire marks are on the underside of the wagon. I have replaced the upper half of the wagon with a new roof section and lower side panel. It had a Chevy 283 in it which now is in a friends 63 Vett.

The 4BT is out of a Hostess bread truck and is a Ford version. It has 65K miles on it and was running great when I got it. It has a T19 trans which I will keep and will marry it to a Dana 18 transfer case with an overdrive.

Current progress:
The major body work has been completed even though there is lots still to do. I installed a D44 front axle from a Scout but I still have some clean up to do and a lift to install. The lift is needed to get enough clearance between the engine block and the differential. I will cut off the current attachments and weld 2" square tube to the frame and reattach the spring attachments. The balance of the lift will be accomplished with new springs. I have the matching rear axle from the Scout to install. The axles have a 3.54 ratio and are from a 1980 diesel Scout.

I installed the 4BT this last weekend on front mounts I made out of 3/8 and 1/4 flat stock. The mounts are currently bolted to the original Willys frame. The transmission is setting on the original Willys cross member and space to the correct height with blocks. I will finish the rear mount once the transfer case is married to the T19. There is quite a lot of room in the engine compartment and I should be able to keep the battery and everything there.

I am in the process of mounting a PS box to the Willys frame. I am using a box from a late 70's Scout as it bolts nicely to the side of the frame. I chose this box as I will have a straight shot to the firewall with the linkage unlike other steering setup used on Willys. I will need to mod the inner fender skirt just a little. I am using a 3/8 plate between the steering box and frame and a 1/4 plate on the nut side of frame. I am not decide if I want a modern steering column or the original.

Enough for now. I hope the pictures attach correctly.
 

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Great to see another Willys project! and I thought my wife's Willys was in bad shape when we started!
 

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58 willys great looking build, are you using a novak adaptor for the tranny? The green dodge looks really good, does it have a diesel as well? Where the michelin's hard to find ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Making a little progress;

I have been making some progress this week. Mostly planning and some front axle work. I did get the PS box bolted to the frame. I made a 3/8 plate steel plate to put between it and the frame. I will end up welding it at some point. I will use 1/4 back up plate inside the frame that the nuts will tighten against.

I am still trying to decide how to do the lift in the front. I will go from 1 3/4 inch springs to 2" springs to match the axle. I will need to replace the spring attachment points which is fine as I am planning on doing part of the lift by putting spacers between the frame and spring attachments.

I will be taking a short break from the Willys as I need to finish some wall board in the garage before winter sets in.

Trucknut:

The Dodge is a WC53 with a Chevy 327. It is my show truck that I built and continue to work on. It has done very well at offroad and 4X4 shows and did very well this year at Hot August Nights in Reno this year. I got the Michelins years ago. I talked my wife into a quick trip to Edmonton AB. (Dollar Tire) with stops at Lake Louise and Jasper. I am planning on using the Novak adapter on my Willys.
 

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If you are already going to build spring hangers anyways, I would consider going to a 2 1/2 wide spring, should still be able to squeeze that onto the spring pads on the diff and will give you alot more choices as to factory replacement springs to use, most leaf sprung fullsizes use 2 1/2 to 3 wide springs in the frts. Such as FSJ Wagoneer/Cherokee front lift springs, still reasonably short in length and should be able to take the wieght of the 4BT

Love the wagon build by the way, just starting to help a friend build a 54 into a camping/light wheelin rig.
 

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A factory FSJ front spring will be dead flat with the weight of a 4BT on it. That can be good or bad depending on what you are looking for.
 

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58 Willys: your build looks really good so far. I've considered doing a flatfender truck for a while now..

You might want to think about some more frame reinforcement, especially in the front area. The steering box puts a bunch of side loads on the frame in that area. On my 1960 CJ 5 we used a 1/8" plate welded to the outside back to the spring hanger. This and some gussets on the crossmember so it won't parallelogram on you. Also the extra weight of the engine could use some extra support so the mounts don't flex the frame rails too much and cause cracks. Remember you are dealing with 50 year old steel that was not welded with todays technology, in fact I always described it as "coat hangers hooked to a battery".

Another way to go at the lift would be to do a Spring Over Axle conversion. With stock Wrangler springs, and the Scout axles it would end up at about 4-5" total which is about what you need anyway for oil pan clearance.

Your gearing will be just about right with the Warn OD. I have a T98 with a D18 and WOD on my 5. The OD splits the main trans' gears almost exactly in half. You'll have 6 usable road gears if you split or 3 spds with OD if you run it that way. A silent intermediate gear shaft conversion for the D18 is a good thing too. Novaks or AA still has them. It will make the D18 last for a long time.

When you get this one done, you should look at dumping the 327 in the green truck for a 4BT also. See Paul in NY's WC's He's got several painted pretty colors.

Good luck and I have several Warn OD's if you need one.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Willys frame

Randy:

Thanks for your comments. I am planning on beefing up the frame. I was going to make the engine mount part of a new cross member and may still do that. I am aware that the engine mounts will twist the frame (bottom outwards). I am planning on putting a large gusset between the front cross member and the frame rails. It will be right behind where the steering box is mounted so that should help. I also am considering a larger gusset to the front cross member to the bottom of the engine mounts. This should reduce some of the frame twist. I will also box in the front frame horns and mount new spring attachments points to them. I have a piece of 1 X 3" steel box that I will weld between the spring attachments to stop them from flexing. There is very little strength in the frame where the springs attach. I will also put a gusset between the frame horns and the front cross member. I also may run a cross bar between the rear spring attachments if I have clearance.
I also will box in more of the frame in places.

I will remove the original steering wheel and the new one will come through the fire wall a little higher than the original. I just figured out that I might be able to keep the original peddles. If I use a hydroboost I can put it where the original brake master was with the new master going into the area that the steering box was in. I will use an internal clutch slave and use the original pivot arm to drive the clutch master. This will allow me to keep the battery on the firewall as I will not have hanging peddles.

I am not sure I want a SOA conversion. It puts the Willys too high. I will need about 2.5 to 3 " of lift to give me the clearance I need. I will put different bumpers on the frame to stop the axle from hitting the oil pan. I will not offroad it hard so 4.5" of clearance should be fine. I am not interested in lots of articulation so I should be good to go.

I have considered a 4BT in the green Carryall. Paul and I have talked about it more than once. Dave Quin of PDR and I also discussed how to do it and where to put the IC. Paul and I have known each other for a number of years from the Dodge sites. A 4BT may be in the future but for now it is one at a time. It would give me much better gas mileage than the 327.

The idea on the Willys is to make it as much of a sleeper as possible. I am going to keep as much near stock as possible. I am going to find some way to put that original steering wheel on the new column. Hopefully the only thing that will visually give it away is the large exhaust pipe. The "slight" rumble going down the road will be a dead give away but :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Progress pictures

Here are a couple of pictures of the Willys. I have not done a lot as I am sheet rocking the garage and got a good head cold.

Picture 1 is of the steering gear bolted to the frame. Yes, it is temporary and the bolts will be replaced with grade 8 and the doubler will be welded to the frame.

Picture 2 shows the clearance between the firewall and engine. I am sure glad the Willys was an inline 6 to start with as no mods to the firewall are needed.

Picture 3 shows the room between the radiator and the engine. Plenty of room for the IC and fan to go. I will put the IC between the radiator and grill

Picture 4 shows that there is plenty of room for the exhaust down pipe.

Picture 5 is of the differential and the oil pan. The oil pan is OK, it is the front cover that is close. Remember I have not lifted the Willys as yet so there will be more room than there is now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Woops, the pictures are small

I will do better next time. I think you can still see what I was pointing out.
 

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Randy

I have 58 Willys arm twisted tight to yank that Gas Guzzling, Spark Infested 327 and drop in a B3.9. If I twist his arm any more, he wont be able to work ha ha.

Its going to be a beautiful truck when done

Paul
 

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Plan on getting started again

Well I hope to work on the Willys for a little while tonight. I took some time to do some traveling and work around the house.

I totally rebuilt the interior of my garage. All new sheet rock insulation and etc. It is not so cold out in the garage. So it should be nicer to work out there.
 

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Just found the thread, your wagon is looking good. I like the sleeper build. Kudos to you for blending the bodies!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can not believe that it has been 6 months since I have been here. I have done a little work on the Willys. Funds are tight right now of this is on the back burner.
 

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A few rules to live by when building projects, 1. it's going to take longer than you think 2. it's going to cost more than you think. 3. repeat #1&2
 

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A few rules to live by when building projects, 1. it's going to take longer than you think 2. it's going to cost more than you think. 3. repeat #1&2
the 1st rule helps to go faster to the 2nd rule...
 
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