I have the 3 section pump - Picture above appears to be a 3 section pump.
There's zero complexity for air to air system. Water to air system is complex. The system efficiency and subsequent engine power enhancement is the key. As for the air intake this is what it's used:
View attachment 131302
Air compressor mount is in house fabrication, but generally the high-mount bracket will do the same job.
Let me know if you want more info/pictures. Milan
At the 200HP tune I would expect a properly built/maintained 4BT to meet the expectations of a Cummins.Eggman, thanks for your ideas on weight distribution especially related to your crew cab.
Sounds like you’ve done the ‘200 hp’ recipe- are you satisfied with your reliability?
I was originally going to put the ford 300 in there for it’s lighter weight/torque output and I also have been weary of the 6cyl’s weight. I have a pretty healthy 390 in there now getting about 13 mpg highway, so that’s good to hear you’re satisfied with having replaced your 390 without regret. Down the road I’d like to get the fuel tank out of the cab and between the frame rails to help even out the f/r weight and smooth the ride some.
The simplicity of the engine is great. However, I am discovering adapting what was pretty much a loader engine to a performing engine is going to take a bit $$.
Just a guess but there should be a way to change the relief PSI setting likely shims in the valve, I'd search to see who has done it or just pay a hydraulic shop an hours labor and have them do it.A bonus question for the ford 78-79 f250 4x4 power steering box guys. I checked with Redhat steering on dodge ps pump compatibility with the 78-79 f250 4x4 ps box. It sounds like the gears back in the 70's only used about 800 to 1,100 psi maximum pressure, and the Dodge ps pump (which would get run on the vac/ps unit) is likely building about 1,600psi.
Is there a way to back that pressure off a ways to keep the seals in the gear box safe?
Difficult to prove anything in your situation. Even if they did crap work 3 years ago that's still long past when anyone would warranty it.A regionally respected local shop is installing 3.54 into the rear end. They found the carrier bearing spun and carrier is damaged, new carrier ordered.
They did the first diff rebuild 3 years ago on the same axle. There were what appeared to be tiny tac welds on the bearing surface of the outer carrier race of the spun bearing.
Can’t see how this would’ve happened other than that I had to do frame welding for the PS box after that axle was installed. Thinking it was a welding grounding incident welding the rollers to the races then breaking off (leaf springshave rubber bushings so maybe not). Or, the shop was cutting corners on shimming correctly by welding to add metal to the race or using a punch.
Should I pick my stuff up from them and do it myself?
When taking delivery at the shop before settling the bill, I’m going to take the diff cover off to look over the work. I suppose I should be looking for gear paint, welds, and checking for smooth operation.
Anything I should check for before paying the bill if I have them do it.
My F150 was a $1,000 Cragslist purchase - Thoroughly thrashed, barely ran well enough to drive on a UHaul trailer. I used a random Dodge/Saginaw vacuum/power steering pump found in the corner of a friend's shop. Eventually, the Saginaw started leaking and the vac/ps pump unit was replaced with a new Dorman branded unit. 9 years, 72+K miles and 37 states later the original power steering box still does not leak....Power steering is not a problem. The old box will run just peachy with increased pressure. It is just a torsion valve with a piston. The seals will have no issue with increased pressure. Those old Ford pumps were terrible. Saginaw is a monster improvement.
Russ, I read your entire build thread the other day (helped me procrastinate sanding drywall). I hate to procrastinate so I put things off immediately! It was good to see how you wanted to do yours with parts on your shelf, 'on the cheap.' I try to do this also and am putting together a list of places that I can find stuff for less.If I were in your situation I would exchange the stock 16 spline out at the first sign of a problem and upgrade to a 14 bolt, Sterling 10.25 or a late model AAM axle.
I have a D70 from a 77 super camper under my 12 valve highboy. It has an easy life so it is doing fine, but I am on the lookout for a cab chassis Sterling 10.25 to bolt under there. The Sterling axles are a very nice axle. The cab chassis axles bolt under a highboy and the have monster sized brakes that pair well with the front discs.
My F150 was a $1,000 Cragslist purchase - Thoroughly thrashed, barely ran well enough to drive on a UHaul trailer. I used a random Dodge/Saginaw vacuum/power steering pump found in the corner of a friend's shop. Eventually, the Saginaw started leaking and the vac/ps pump unit was replaced with a new Dorman branded unit. 9 years, 72+K miles and 37 states later the original power steering box still does not leak.
Good call on sanding drywall - Last time I did that was summer of 1973 (lived in MA then, the temperature and humidity was 99 )... Russ, I read your entire build thread the other day (helped me procrastinate sanding drywall).
I'm 43 years old type 1 diabetic and had a bit of a heart health scare involving paramedics/ER on my family vacation to Seattle/Portland recent during the heat wave up there but am fortunately am 'ok' with a 'good strong heart.' So, I'm going to 'adjust' my rate of work on the project more toward my priorities, age, longevity, and budget....